Customs finishing off my pre-war cheveee project

grease cap is 1 3/4 " anyone know where i can get one or a part number?.the guy who supplied the rotor sells a bearing kit with a cap for $25 the bearings cant be great quality for that price plus wants $128 to ship+customs on this end fuck that. timkin bearings here are e80 plus taxes.at least they are quality.pissed off that this guy is scamming,but i have a plan.im trying jegs/summit for the correct fit or else machine up something and tack it to the old dome or machine the bigger part and bolt it to the hub with a flange,its not like it will be coming off too often fingers crossed!.

 

sourced the caps easily enough using live chat at JEGS.#555-630550 $6.57 each decided against these they are suited to a 1.8" bore ,think mine is 1.75" bore

 

There ya go ye ol Irish nut - ya found another way to skin that cat - keep pluckin away - safe and happy holidays to you and yer family
Later Brother Flea

 

cheers mike happy holiday and a prosperous new year to everyone who contributed to this build thread,thanks

 

https://www.jegs.com/i/Dorman-Products/326/13975/10002/-1 .update ive found another cap this one fits a 1 3/4 bore its 25/32"overall .001" press fit. so ill go for this one "$5 a piece .the other suits a 1.8 ",a little on the big side.

 

update available on ebay,pay a little extra for the part save $20 on the shipping .better deal for me

 

orders in for about the price of shipping from jegs 2 dust caps plus shipping and prepay import taxes wont see them till the new year

 

hawk brake pads arrived today came very quickly .time will tell a lot!.

 

Dust caps arrived today look like they will fit.

 

they did fit.i repacked the bearings , new seal fitted well.assembled the pass hub and the bearing dust cap fitted.made up a drift to drive the caps home without damage.progress is slowish but gathering parts takes time on the metric side of the atlantic.its refreshing to meet someone every now and then that can work imperial and metric with confidence.

 

when i pulled these hubs apart there was a little play at the hub.ill readjust the play at the bearings once i get some miles up.if theres any repeat ill install timkin bearings second time around

 

Timkin bearings are the key. The best I've ever used. Then again, they were the only ones I used and worked brilliantly. Class!

 

well stripped out the drivers side today,no play at the bearings .so after cleaning and repacking with grease ill set them up again.see how they go.

 

outside pad on drivers side was reluctant to locate but the tiniest rub of a file sorted it.hope to finish this up tomorrow.i like to leave the garage door open while i work.that depends on the weather.iva couple of robins dropping in for grub every day and a wagtail as well for company.

 

Nice! It is good to have friends drop by....even if they have feathers!

 

finished reassembly but let the m/c run low and need to bleed the lot now..as im working on the brakes im going to overhaul the pedal,making placement as good as it can be.

 

little to show but progress made none the less..have someone proficent lined up to bleed the system with me,interested in working on the truck.when i added a return spring to the pedal i just stuck a spring into one of the holes in the pedal.it used to make a scraping sound when the pedal was depressed.today i had a proper floating pin machined to locate the spring at the pedal.picture to follow.have new seals for the m/c.might as well fit these while the brakes are down.need more brake fluid.checked the pads on the discs today.at the rear the pads are running to the edge of the rotor but not beyond at the front the pads are about 1/8" from the outer edge .

 

painted and fitted,greased up.

 

the other end of the spring is clamped to the column.must sort that end out too.

 

my friend arrived this evening.we got straight down to bleeding the brakes .didnt take long once all around and back to the fronts again..gotta brake pedal now thanx pat.spin tomorrow and a test drive to bed in the front pads hurrah!

 

went for a brief spin upalong the road.it didnt sound good,as if a pad was in inside out.went home gingerly.went over the pit and commenced the investigation .nothing was loose and the pads were in the right way around.pads were dragging hard.loosened off all the mounting bolts and the pins.only thing i noticed was a bolt passing through the spindle holding on the caliper bracket looked loose.it wasnt but was bottomed out in a blind hole.i added a washer under the head of the bolt and loctited it.when jacked the wheels are turning now,but with a slight drag.need to take out for a test drive to bed in the pads and take it from there.have a pedal but feels a little spongy..will reassess after the test drive.will probably need to bench bleed the master/cylinder

 

short drive this morning .spongy pedal and pads dont sound right .sounds like something isnt compatable.fuck it .back to the 10" set up for now ,with the new pads and try to see where the problem is.ive worked out how i ran the level down.i am using goodrich brake lines with screw on ends to the lines.when i was changing out the rotors and brackets ,pads the caliper must have twisted loosening the fitting.when i pumped the pedal to check for a brake i just pumped the fluid out of the loose fitting running the level down.before i sort this ill put hydraulic sealer(loctite) on those threads.not needed to seal the fitting just keep it tight

 

Is your master cylinder still under the driver side floor? If so, did you use a 2 lb residual valve in line to the caliper? If it's on the firewall, ignore the previous statement.

 

on the

 

caught covid expected the worst but it wasnt too bad after.a little tired but i think im recovered now.got on with some domestic important jobs .weather is cold and my wood burning stove is leaking fumes .my old one was burnt out from overfiring.purchased a new one 5kw more than enough for our needs.leak became too bad had to stop lighting it.have smoke alarm and carbon monoxide alarms in the room ,these werent activating.but i detected fumes .cut the flue to get it out in the daylight to investigate.phoned the importers /manufacturers .they were no help.wouldnt help because im not an approved installer.ive fitted probably a dozen over the years never an issue.this one was breaking my heart.
when i had it outside i gave it the once over and returned to where i purchased it.the girl behind the counter was fuckall help she only sells them no practical experience.went fiddling with the display model and noticed the air vent had a good spring action keeping it tight against the body of the stove went home and checked mine.the spring action was poor in comparison.this surely was the problem .stripped the vent assembly out for inspection.looked to me like a seal needed replacement as well.returned to the showroom and met up with another guy in the showroom,an english guy who was more tuned in.i purchased some seals and returned home for the big fix.i hot rodded the stove.reworked the vent fitting new seals and adding 2 stainless washers one either end of the return springs which increased tension and allowed the assembly to slide smoothly.lit the stove 2 days ago and apart from the fumes from the fire cement curing its all good.inspection when it was removed revealed shit welding by the chinese child welder.its a steel box type stove , top and bottom welded on with a cast door.buyer beware. HENLEY STOVES .would i buy another HENLEY unlikely.professional installers were quoting 700 euro for an install,fuck that and i would still have had a leak from the stove.the old dog for the hard road slan go foill

 

happy days are here again back to the 38 soon

 

it was nice and warm here last night and i was 700e better off and had the satisfaction of doing the job myself.domestic chores are calling but ill be cruising the 38 again soon.

 

Keep up the good work!

 

longest day of the year has come and gone nothing done since jan.been watching the price of fuel go up and up it reached e2.20 a litre before dropping down a few cent ye will have to convert that to dollars per gallon for me..depressing stuff its for next to nothing in russia.trying to get motivated ,missing my truck and looking forward to a spin out couple of jobs to do remove and bench bleed the m/c.rework the brake pedal welding a tab to the pedal and removing the kugel universal bolt on mount,leaving more room under the pedal.have a plan in the head itll work.really need to fit wing mirrors.pulling out of my road uphill turning to the left leaves oncoming traffic in the blindspot at the corner of the cab.have a plan there too.offered up a set of clamp on mirrors to the door top.cant see anything out of them too small and too short the 38 cab tapers at the front so custom made mirrors that bolt to the doors that mate to 5"lens i purchased from jim carter trucks months ago.everything sprayed black or powder coated satin blak.best chris