Customs finishing off my pre-war cheveee project

i made contact with the guy that supplied the booster.he sent me on a photo of the pushrod adjuster.it worked differently to what i thought,never saw it apart.the shaft through the booster is tapped with a 6mm thread in it the adjuster is male with a 6mm thread and the 7mm A/F section is solid.there should be one in the post.because the adjuster is loctited into the booster my best option might be to run a die over the m7 hex a 5/16 or m8 thread should do the job.then knock up a custom adjuster to push the piston on the m/c .cant take a chance on forcing it in case i shear the thing off.cant apply heat it would ruin the seal .

 

got some help from a neighbour to bleed the brakes,took a while.there was a lot of air there.i decided to fit the 1 inch bore again.maybe tomorrow weather has cooled down.helper is a classic car/motorcyclist good mechanic i helped him not the other way around thanx steve .a 15/16 bore m/c could be the solution.willwood do some lovely ones but they are expensive plus shipping and taxes.

 

pulled the m/measured the pushrod length and the piston depth.looks like 1.5 mm clearance.it will be difficult to run die down the adjuster its spinning in the booster but looks like the m7 a/f section would cut a thread if i could prevent it turning working on that.booster will have to come out.

 

replaced the 1" bore m/c for the time being.resevoir is topped up and waiting for my buddy to return to bleed the system.will have to see how things work out .truck hasnt moved in months,since i upgraded the brakes and pads.on the adjustable pushrod im thinking more alomg the lines of drilling and tapping the pushrod to m5,need to drill 4.3mm about 25mm deep .id need a guide machined to drill that accurately .i purchased some m5 domed allen heads today .hardened 8.8 .the pushrod is 7mm a/f and approx 8mm across the points.so theres a little metal to spare.if i got the pushrod drilled out the guide drilled to 5mm would keep the tap straight as well.if and when the new adjuster arrives we can drill and tap that and see how it works before attempting the adjuster in the booster,need the truck mobile for the big garage claean up S O O N

 

the saga continues.thought i was ready to go but forgot to bleed the m/c.purchased some m5 x50mm button heads today 8.8 .spotted a pushrod depth gauge today on e bay.gotta make my version of that .not readily available here and id be waiting weeks for one to arrive.m5 button heads are approx 9mm in diameter so put one in the drill and spun it and filed until it was similar diameter to the top of the pushrod.measuring with the verniers was not giving accurate results because the pushrod has a blunt tip, the indent in the piston seems to run to a narrow point. .so armed with the gauge tomorrow hope to move this saga on.

 

wasnt ready to bleed brakes today postponed til monday.unbolted the m/c to measure the diameter of the pushrod it came in at a tad under 8mm point to point.diameter of the m5 buttonheads was over 9mm.spun the bolt in the drill and filed until it was same diameter and a similar shape.drilled a piece of flat bar with an 8mm hole.placed that over the pushrod on the booster.located it withflat washers and bolts with the booster studs pushrod height was measured with the verniers.height was whats sticking through plus the thickness of the bar.to measure the piston depth cut a piece of flat bar 75mm drilled a 4.2 hole in centre and tapped it 5mm.used the button head with the reduced head.screwed the bolt down til it started to lift the flat bar this was the depth. minus the height of the snout.gauge cost very little and worked well.same measurement came up ,1.5 mm clearance at the piston.more than i wanted but will fire ahead.if this is a problem ill have to return to it at a later date and make the pushrod adjustable at the m/c end.as the pushrod is a few thou under 8mm it should thread m8 fine.or tap m5 fine as long as the adjuster isnt hardened.the m/c is partially bled ill return to it tomorrow and reinstall the brake lines .hopefully it will be bled on monday.TBTF

 

returned today finished the m/c bleed and connected the brake lines .to my surprise i had a pedal ,a goodish one .i suspect a little air there.hopefully my buddy will return tomorrow and end this saga

 

bleeding cancelled til later on in the week what can u do.tidy up time

 

small tidy up then did something more interesting.the inside sound insulation in the cab was not totally finished to my satisfaction.the roof has curved corners at the rear and the side of the cabs .i had insulated the tricky to do corners by using strips approx 1 1/2 wide tapering to a point over 6-7 inches.with lots of slim pieces converging at the top not great really.so i cut a quadrant and used a compass to mark the cut.after some carefull cutting got it sorted.looks professionally done now good for the soul.later there will be black foam heat insulation over the sound deadening .two man job,i need to choose my assistant carefully.the foam is very difficult to fit on curved surfaces.the front and rear corners are the tricky bits.

inspired by my success with the insulation i moved on to courtesy lights under the dash.in the A pillars i fitted door switches from a 1994 suzuki swift.robust items with a black rubber finish.discrete in the door jambs .these were salvaged from a car going to the crusher.plan is one near the fusebox on drivers side with another on the pass side behind the dash .the light fitting are from a 1996 honda accord estate,salvaged before it went to the crusher with a leaking water pump.a shame to scrap a otherwise perfect running car due to a waterpump issue.a n expensive time consuming job but thats the way the cookie crumbles.the light fittings are nylon/plastic and very robust.made brackets from 50x80x3 aluminum angle,bolted to the dash mounting brackets either side.removed some ears from the fitting ,drilled an inch hole on the bracket it slid right in.am considering using Araldite to hold the lights in place.the bulbs will be easily accessable should one need to be replaced.bulbs are indicator wattage and should light up the floor for getting in and out.depending on how these work out i may fit an over ride switch to allow me turn on the lights with the doors closed.if i come across suitable lights i intend fitting red/orange lights to the rear of the door visible when the doors are ajar activated by the courtesy light switch.cant be too carefull with the standard of driving locally

 

You've been busy!

 

thats me busy as a bee.today i concentrated on the brackets for the underdash courtesy lights one is made with the light fitting glued in with araldite.trial run waiting for some paint.the other should be quicker than this one just an mirror image.possibly wrap the bulb side of the bracket in tinfoil to reflect the light.!! .photos to follow

 

heres a picture of the first light assembly fitted.mounted with countersunk m5 stainless screws.tapped the bracket.reflecter is a new stainless soup spoon drilled and slid over the fitting held in place with araldite.if the earth was another inch longer i could earth it to the earth bolt on the dash bracket.ill tap the bracket instead and earth it there

 

ATTACH=full]5513192[/ATTACH] disassembled .i like traditional with a few modern convienences discreet ones .

 

.i really like these light fittings sturdy good quality and easy to mount .this one power in and earth.also have stop tail units i fitted to the stock 38 taillights.

 

pictures are back but take forever

 

Nice idea for the reflector @nunattax

 

thanx bud,i was thinking of aluminum foil but the spoons a maintainance free job.sprayed the fitting with wd40 and silicone grease on the contacts for long life.

 

Nice ya ol Irish Nut - nothing slack about you but yer looks

 

howya dooing mike ill take that as a compliment .c

 

Yep - thinking outside the box - Bubba doing fine - getting ready to paint the fenders on da coupe
Take care Brother Flea

 

what about a picture or two .c.

 

Great idea on the refelctor! Does the wife know you're stealing her silverware though? You might have to drink your soup from now on.

 

leakie ill let you in on a secret.we used to have loads of spoons.one day a while back i went looking for a tea spoon,very thin on the ground eventually found 5 fuckit went to the shopping centre and bought 10.ten and 5 =15.just looked now 3 to be found.no soup spoons. only table spoons .she took some to work with cans of yoghurt ,dont come back.others are used to feed stray dogs with.im just glad theres 3 teaspoons there at the moment

 

VERSACHEM #44-2C unit no44209 .product recommendation.i have used this. sets in 4 mins and sticks hard, strong bond.thought i had lost the name of the product but found the wrapper on the workbench.b getting another on monday.was using araldite instead.dont like it its brittle when set only good for small things low stress bits

 

and then there were 2.i need another spoon for the middle.no bracket needed the holes in the wiring trunking are the correct size.just stick it in with some araldite

 

.short 2 eyelets for the earths monday all going well.steve should be back monday to bleed the brakes with me.getting more done since it cooled down than i did all year ha

 

picked up the versachem adhesive and im glad to say it hadnt gone up in price in over 5-6 years.purchased from an old school shop its on the computer but could be anywhere.had to point it out to the attendant.hurrah!

 

and steve came with his vacuum brake bleeder to do the brakes.40min all in and theres a firm pedal.a fantastic tool.with not a drop of fluid spilt.i can move on with replacing the steering column now and tidying up the wiring a little.even though i used the 1 inch bore m/c before it feels different at the pedal.must be a combination of the vacuum bleed and the revised pedal mounting.the proof of the pudding will be getting some miles up on it and bedding the brakes in.

 

Technical - side view mirrors | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com) .i ran a parallel thread about mirrors looking for opinions.i think it has run out of steam so im keeping the mirror theme going here.its not urgent but ill be working on mirrors some time soon.i dont think ill buy anything to suit my needs that ill be 100% happy with.this is where i am. playing about with ideas in my head doing a sketch now and then and refining the design.initially i ruled out a bottom mount favoured a top hung mirror and now looking what could be done with a front mount mirror.definately want a mirror that can pivot at the mounting so it will move if it hit something rather than buckle the door frame.i have a powder coated motorcycle mirror i might use as a starting point and modify to suit

 

stuck some masking tape on the door frame.what im thinking is a plate bonded to the door 3mm thick drilled and tapped where needed.with 2 m4 mounting bolts.looks like there are 3 folds of metal on this spot so should get a good thread cut. versachem says the epoxy sets into a metal like substance that can be tapped etc.sounds the job.
then another plate the same dimensions with 2 spacers welded to.(shaded areas)the bushing in the middle can pivot and theres a 1/4 " tensile bolt for the pin..bottom bushing drilled and tapped so no external nut needed.straight 12mm mirror arm with locknuts from the motorcycle mirrors..bushing welded to the mirror arm tapped 1/4 unc to take the jim carter supplied 5" mirror head in black . i think it will work