Ok so I'm looking into building a tbucket and wondering where I could get some frame prints or measurements. I'm wanting to build it from the ground up. And also what would be the best starting point for this?
don't know but try the internet, must be lot's of do it your self frame sites. anyway this post keeps it on top.
So much depends on how much equipment and skill you have. For some people, it just makes more sense to buy a done frame, or a frame and suspension, and then add your personal touches. Not saying that is you, just a general comment. Don
Would you be against an original Model T frame? It could be modified however you need it, It would be strong enough for almost any streetable engine if boxed, & they can be still found for generally around $100 to $500.00 depending on condition. I have one in my coupe & I am very happy with it.
good to see a young guy excited about a ground up build. as mentioned above, a lot depends on your skills, tools, dry place to do build, etc. always good if you know someone that has built a frame to help figure things. size of budget determines a lot too. hope that you do a lot of searching here for build information (even not bucket), parts, etc
Suggest you make it easy for yourself. There are plans available from people who have built them. Keep it simple, use a small block engine and don't try to get too fancy. Even a simple hot rod is a lot of work. Get it done and on the road in basic form, then see if you want a bigger motor or other improvements based on your experience. When you have a 2000 pound car with a motor out of a 4000 pound car it feels like double the HP to begin with.
take a look here... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...adster-tourings-official-photo-thread.505967/
also here... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-bucket-of-ugly-a-de-uglifying-thread.824491/ nothin' but pages of T buckets ...
Here are some pictures to get you started. We built this bucket for my one Son about 9 years ago. We made the frame.
A great resource for T Bucket stuff is Ron from RPM. He makes all the components and has done some parts making for me on my altered project. Nice guy, super honest, with good parts and prices. http://www.eztbucket.com/ Don
Hey, Blake; If you want to do it yourself, FalconGeorges' link to the Youngster plans are about as good as it gets. Covers what you need for the frame/suspension set-up. & does it correctly, + iirc, they're free. If you need more detail for the whole build, scare up a copy of the TotalPerformance T booklet. & yes, Chips' 'Bucket of Ugly' thread should be required reading, for the info presented. FWIW. Marcus...
Thanks guys, been busy today, so just now checking in, but I'm goin to check into all of this. Also I am a certified welder and fabricator, have a shop along with my own miller mig, tig and stick setups so I was planning to build everything from new steel. I like the "built not bought" way. I appreciate all of the replies, I'm picking up a straight axle tomorrow and already have a rear end from a 1500 silverado, I think that will work not sure yet, plenty of time to change it up if not
Sound like you have a head start already. As far as the rear axle goes an S-10 or 8-inch out of a maverick or similar would be closer to the width you might want. (jmho)
I've been contemplating using a Volvo rear axle with stock 4 link, drive shaft and the transmission for a little dry lake inspired roadster build. Running a transverse spring on the volvo build Dana 30 (volvo 1030 or 1031 LSD) with an early chevy front axle fir a three springer look. With volvo brakes adapted. And they have a good selection of gears and is a good width match for an A or T frame. Over here they are cheap and available. They got a 5x108 bolt pattern, witch is the same as 1934-36 chevy standard 5x4,25 aka odd chevy pattern. But it will need to be full fendered or with a belly pan to hide the disc brakes. The more time you spend resurging your build, the easier it will be to go to the pick and pull. You can either do what all the others do I or start thinking out of the box, but that might get you a stamp, as being a So-and-so but it can be pulled of! Plannning And long night cross matching, the HAMB, google and you local pick n pull. But width of track has to match or it becomes weird and ugly.
Here are a couple of things that I personally like to do that you might want to consider. Some people build their bucket frames from 1.5 x 3 tubing with an 1/8 inch wall thickness, I don't. I use 2 x 3 with a 3/16 wall thickness for a couple of reasons. First of all, the x 3 has a prettier radius and looks nicer. Secondly, I like the thicker wall so I can drill and tap for non structural items like brake lines, wiring clamps, etc. There are a few more things too ,but I am running for work and will post more tonight. Don
Thanks for the thought, that's what I was gonna ask, had read somewhere about 2x3 1/8 wall thickness but was planning to go stronger with 3/16 wall thickness because I plan to put a modern ls based 5.7 with the possibility of turbos later
Blake, While you are doing your research on how you want your car to go together, you might take a look at some threads on the HAMB about "Hot Rods in the '50's" and "Hot Rods in the '60's". This is a website that focuses on hot rods and customs from way back up through the mid '60's. T Buckets have worn a lot of different "looks" over the years, but you might do well to base yours on 1959 or 1963 or whatever grabs you. Look at old hot rod mags from that era, and see what gave these cars their visual appeal. A large part of it is the exposed engine, and a well dressed period engine would really define what your car is about. A late model LS engine will certainly make you gobs of power, even more so with a couple of turbos hanging off of it, but it won't have the same sort of visual appeal as a vintage looking 327 or 348, since you're a Chevy guy, or an Olds or Buick, Ford Y block or whatever. If you were building a full-fendered car where you could leave the hood shut, maybe the engine wouldn't matter so much. But on an open car like a T Bucket, its different. Anyhow, you have to build your own car to suit yourself, of course, but late model hi-tech engines, diesels, and especially diesels with turbos stacked on top, will be roundly criticized on this site for their lack of traditional content. Take a look around, see if something that looks like its from 50 or 60 years ago grabs ya, and have at it. You'll find that this place has excellent technical advice. K6
Spirit industries in mountain home Arkansas cranks out a lot of bucket products , Google spiritcars.com. Nice frames & I had a pal say they sell a weld it up yourself version too. I've seen bunches of them look to be great workmanship. Flux
There are a few companies that sell kits that come with the proper paper-work to make it easier to****le and tag your ride, just depends on which direction you want to go. Best of luck with your project.
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