Projects First Hotrod 28 Sedan Please help

A traditional build of 1932 ,
AV8 ? That would be a very early .
More likely 1940 AV8.
But realistically most I would say 1950
& earlier is Traditional.
My thinking of Traditional , Do not know how to word thinking.
Pick a time frame , any parts that year
& older , tractor , automotive , plane
Industrial ext.
I look , think Most only know what was seen in Mag's ..
In Reality Mag photographers did not venture outside of Southern California
Until like 55 , maybe little later .
Even the state of Ca .
USA big place , even other countries
There was alot of out side thinking , building going on that was not seen , just maybe by few in a small town ,
Did not know what was going on in next town over , up to mid 90s .
Not every one had
Film , I come from line did not take pictures of every thing seen , done
For me really until 07 camera phone
, still do not take that many pics ,

I really only have / seen every issue
Of H-R mag from 48- 73 ish
Neat thing in early years from the West Coast.
Then other mags scatter years to present.
Hot Roding is unique Thinking in early years ,
Same with Land Speed, Roundly Round
Mig , dirt , Grand Prix ,to Indy,
Until 1974ish .

 

@Smithshotrodinterior
What Year / Era is traditional to you?
From 1932 Year to Present ,
Each year is different
Era style ,Look !
Not trying to split hairs ,
You post / thread is in
Traditional ...

 

to be honest Im not even sure I guess I like the stuff they where doing in the 40s 50s as far as the looks, But im not as much a purist as most here, I really like the traditional look, But i want a dependable drivetrain that i dont care to throw my family in and head out on a road trip, I wanna keep the spirit of the car intact but not build something thats a unreliable money pit

 

@Smithshotrodinterior
Sound like mid 60 to 70ish
If a pick your part , pull your part near by
If you can do most all work your self
With little bling , stock ,mild
305 ,350 cid Vortec 300hp
Glide, 350 400 700r
Can be done for less then 10k
Even 8k
Not including price of car .
Shop parts New & used .
Other might say No ,
But yes you can

 

The nice thing about using a Model A frame is it's pretty open down the middle and the crossmembers can be cut out or modified and new ones can be made from flat stock if you decide to use something like a T5 behind a flathead V8. Some guys use that mid-80's Ford pick up 3 speed with O/D as well. I forget the model of that trans.

A flathead with a T5 is one of the best things you can do for drivability. There is a little more to it than just throwing a S-10 trans behind it since the gearing isn't that well suited for an old Ford. It takes some swapping stuff around to get the gear set up that will allow you to drive across country with keeping you happy and your motor working within its sweet spot.

My AV8 is a strict traditional car with a '42 and before time frame in mind. Honestly, I'm thinking of swapping in a Jeep T-5. The old Ford 3 speed gets old if you plan to drive the car for any distance. Having 5 gears with an O/D is a game changer.

Anyone who has done that swap can't believe how much more drivable the car becomes. If you are willing to swap out the Model A rear for, say a '40, you can convert it open drive. You'll just need to figure out how to keep the rear in place and add a panard bar to keep it from swaying side to side since you won't have the torque tube to do that.

 

That kit is junk. The axle is Chinese scrap iron. I can tell from the small pic even. Death waiting to happen.

Seems you need some guidance. If you don’t buy from a trusted source, at least ask us to take a look before you pull the trigger.

 

Forged I-Beam Split Wishbone Front End Kit I just pulled the trigger on this front end kit, along with spindles and a brake kit, hope i made a good choice

 

Forged I-Beam Split Wishbone Front End Kit please tell me thats a good one

 

Much better, but you can’t tell the width of the axle. I think a 46” axle looks best in a full fendered A. Especially if you get it real low so the tires tuck up into the fenders like the dark green example you posted.

 

I pulled my fenders, running boards and aprons off this evening, the aprons had quite abit of rot i couldn't really see when they was on the car, but just like those old gear heads decades ago, as soon as I stood back and looked at it with no fender, I was like wow, now its looking like a hot rod lol, So i may ditch the fenders, Verdicts still out

 

Still buy a 46” axle.

 

Turns out this axle I bought is 47''

 

@Smithshotrodinterior
On Rear cross member
To get to set lower , more then 1-1/2 from stock , thought needs to be taken , part of rear crossmember is also
rear body mounts
On model A frame
Also need to think where you going go mount Battery,
& A frame is Narrow run's directly down the center of the front seats planning mounts and transmission is critical in mock up you run out of a lot of space you might see some other 28 to 31 they are on 32 frames which is a lot wider and follows the body shape without fenders and running boards.
If your seats have the factory flip up hinge seats save those parts hard to find.
If removing front seat You need narrow I believe it's 40ish inches from door-to-door on the inside, & tall like me I had to move front seat back 6 inches from stock , I am 6 ft tall , pedles also if you have big feet

 

Im considering doing a four link and coilovers in the rear

 

Still there's an issue with the stock frame thought needs to be taken ,
I did things different I notched axle tube's so I could use stock crossmember.
Most would not do this mold
Look @ both pic of frame you will see difference in the rear stock versus hotrod
In the picture I posted earlier was my A I dayley drove and drag race with stock frame with the engine north of 650hp
100mph in 1/8

 

'26/'27 T rear cross member lowers the car by 1.5" and is a direct fit for the stock Model A rear crossmember.

 

https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/solid-axle-front-suspension-details

 

Very good information

 

thanks man, that is extremely helpful

 

after taking the fenders off, i think ill leave them off for good, which bring us to our next adventure, putting this car on 32 frame rails

 

Two molds Need to be done
Pinch rails @ front.
@ kick up near rear needs to be flatten
For body to set flat on frame rail or modify sub rail on body .
Buy rails weld & modify your self $2,400 ish
Or purchase one $6k up

 

I used a 47 inch forged with 145/15 front tires and there’s no rub.

 

Not what you asked for, but… I vote for full fendered all day long. I mean, since you already have all the stuff. Model A sedans just looks so great with their traditional fenders left mounted.
And with all that said, I’m gonna head away and work on my non-fendered tudor sedan…which I kinda wish it wasn’t…!

 

They look good both ways, im still not completely sure which direction im going, I have a customers 32 tudor here doing the upholstery in it and I love the stance it has with no fenders

 

https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/0902sr-science-of-straight-axles
One More!

 

'28/'29 A's on a '32 frame scream hot rod. You don't need to pinch the frame if you don't want to. If you rather not, you'll need to slightly pie cut the lower portion of the cowl. Either way you go, you will need to notch the rear sub rails if using a '32 frame and may have to relocated the cross member hump under the rear seat.

 

Love this!! body is slighty channeled on the deuce rails...I think!

Theres a bit difference between the past and present interpretation of a hot rod... maybe in the past a common swap of putting a model a ford body on a 32 frame, was looking for porsuit more speed and power with less care about aesthetics.

That golden sedan sure have a lot of frame and body work!!

 

unless I find a better option, Im thinking of buying the speedway 32 rails and maybe use my model a front cross member for the spring and make the rest of them, Im a fairly proficient fabricator, and have a decent arsenal of tools, im not scared to tackle much

 

that car has a killer stance, I wonder if they where able to keep the back seat with the rear that low

 

Jim Brierley built a B with his 7:1 head, C crank, 1R Winfield cam, larger intake valves and mild porting. Dynoed at 107 hp with a single 97. I suggested the T5 as a money saver. My car came with a 39 trans and Mitchel overdrive. Today installing a T5 will be about 60% of cost the 39 & Mitchel. Plus you end up with an open driveline so it's easy to run a later rearend or QC.