first problems power steering - hope i didnt buy a 64 galaxie lemon

hmm damn videos. http://youtu.be/Tf6H3-6S8Fk can u see that now? tomorrow i will pull the starter.

 

that vid worked.

Not a ps pump sound, and not a normal starter sound either.

Almost like an exhaust leak.

Coming from the front of the engine?

 

Have you been underneath this thing to see if a tree branch or other FOD is jammed up inside the undercarriage rubbing against something?

 

+
sounds like water pump to me,does that have its own belt you can remove?does it increase when throttling up?like was said put a long stick on your ear and carefully touch it to all your components and youll find it fast.

 

Video worked for me, sounds almost like a pulley rubbing on something, if you have the belts off all the accessories, and still have the noise look closely at the crank pulley, does not sound like it is starter related to me. From your guesses and things you are trying I think you are way in over your head. Do you have any gearhead friends that could help you sort it out.

 

Not a steering pump whine.
That sounds more like a metallic version of a ball card in the spokes of a bicycle.

 

Same pages, reminded me of how close the pulleys are on an FE. If the pump bearings are worn out the water pump pulley would grind against the crank pulley.

 

Noise remains with belts off. Posted earlier.

 

The pulleys would still touch regardless

 

watched the video
couldn't really tell if this had been converted to an alternator
IF NOT
sounds like something loose in the generator either FOD or a brush or brush clip

 

thank you all. i do appreciate the help. i am lost. i fully admit its over my head. to recap tho - i cant get the starter to even try and engage. the whine sound i initially spoke of is NOT the sound in the video. i cant get the car to run to show you the other whining sound. the metal spinning sound in the video began when i tried to start the car and nothing happened.

the sound seems most definitely to be coming from the solenoid area. as i move closer to the solenoid, the sound increases. i am going to check the starter today. maybe get that tested? ill get the car up on stands and get underneath and check the remaining connections.

argh.

 

-A reminder to disconnect the battery ground (-) before removing the starter.
-Seems like you have two problems which may or may not be related.
-It would be good for you to have a trouble shooting chart. I googled "no start troubleshooting chart 1964 Ford" and came up with several choices.
- If you charge the battery you should disconnect the ground,especially overnight, until you find the problem.
- Be thankful you are not doing this outside during winter!

Larry

 

Take a close look at the positive battery cable, follow it down to the starter and also up from the starter to the solenoid. Check for the insulation worn off and shorting to ground, even a small amount is a dead short. I would take the starter out regardless and get it checked out. Look at the flywheel best as possible while you're there.

Bob

 

hmm update. just jumped the car with my Honda (gasp). fired right up. the whine is back but thats fine i'll deal with that later.

however 10 seconds after i unhooked my Honda battery, the ford died and wont start again. the battery only shows 11.2 as a surface charge so maybe i did in fact kill it. going to get a new one today. i wanted to check the alternator but couldnt get the car to run long enough - although since it was running, if the alt was any good shouldn't it have kept it running?

maybe i am making wrong assumptions but: i imagine an 8 cyl 390 needs a lot of juice to fire the starter motor. i woul think the voltage drop during the time the starter is trying to turn over would be the biggest raw on the system and would be fairly consistent in its power consumption? in other words if i have a good battery showing 14 volts and i draw 5-6 volts during cranking and the car starts the great. but if i have 11 at the battery and i try to crank, i should still use that same 5-6 volts and thus i only have 6v left for the car. not nearly enough. am i anywhere close on this thinking?

 

By jumping the car, you are basically doubling the amperage, so of course it'll start easier. The starter is probably dragging internally and needs to be rebuilt.

If you check a battery across the terminals, you are reading the overall battery condition, 11.2 volts is good. No 12v battery alone will show 14 volts. I also have doubts that the generator is charging, if it was good to begin, it probably isn't by now. So right now, you are looking at a starter, generator and voltage regulator to get the starting and charging system straightened out.

Bob

 

Why don't you just pull the alt. off ,take it with you when you go to get the battery. Most all the parts stores have testers for the alt. That could be one of your main problems.

 

yep i am def doing that!

 

Please post a picture of the alternator.

 

I'm sure you will find the tail lights and dash lights are on the same fuse.

 

If this was running fine when you bought it -
Then shortly after all of these problems started-

What did you do to the car in-between.
Anything you did could be important.
Examples:
Washing under the hood, jumping with crossed cables, tune up, engine bay detailing , electronics install, and the like .....

Why was there no/low transmission fluid?
Did you check it properly as detailed in the factory service manual?
Are you certain of the fluid it takes and use that fluid.

Why is there no whine in the video? Whats different? Why post a video to help diagnose a whine when the noise isn't present?

Detailed answers will help fix your problems,

These old cars are mechanical, simple, and easy to fix. Its been my experience here on the hamb that most problems are answered on the first page. The ones that go on for
any pages and seem to be unsolvable are missing a major chunk of info we get after page 10, or some test was done incorrectly.

We can't actually fix it for you over the interweb , but we can get you on the right path or trouble
shooting chart.

 

OK, there would be some shiney spots on both pulleys. I can see that not making a difference of belts or no belts.

Wouldn't the pump leak if the WP shaft had that much play to droop down to the crank pulley. Having the belts on would make constant contact at the pulley.


According to the OP the video posted of the car running doesn't exhibit the whine and the clicking noise is not the noise he's concerned about. He also says he will live with the whine. I think we are missing some important info

 

Generator equipped cars are a lot less forgiving for errors made like accidently shorting a hot to ground, even for a split second. It seems like there may be multiple problems going on, even harder for those with limited skills to diagnose and fix.

I would beg, borrow or steal a set of factory manuals for the car. Your local library might have one. I have a set for the '64 Ford myself and would be happy to look up anything that will help.

Bob

 

thanks 31. there is non whine in the video because the whine i initially described was when i had the car running and was trying to determine if the pow steering had an issue. in trying to solve that problem i created a second issue - the non starting issue. the video is the sound the car was making when it wouldn't start.

i am almost 100% i am at fault. actually i am 100% sure i am 100% at fault. it dawned on me that i am using a crappy key switch from autozone because the one in the car broke. I just ordered the right one from NAPA and will be trying that. something obviously is a mess if it was all working and now i have no lights, etc.

i do appreciate everyones assistance. and patience.

 

ps - i have an alternator not a generator.

 

So you changed the ignition switch,
then your problems started ?

And the car is not running in the video?
That clicking is a solenoid someplace clicking at about 1500 clicks a minute ?

 

well the prob started when the OEM switch cylinder lock broke. so i used a regular 3 position switch from autozone thinking that would be ok. it did work for a while but i am wondering if i didnt rig it up properly thus causing the electrical crap storm i have created for myself.

 

The clicking solenoid is a sign of a poor connection in the starting circuit. Quite possibly a short as well.

Bob

 

correct - that clicking sound is the solenoid clicking when i turn the key on. the car is not running in that video. i am going to napa in an hour to get the right key switch, test my batt and alternator, and i am color coding a wiring schematic now. i am sure it is my own error just trying to sort it. as always many thanks,

 

Yep, no sense in chasing that just yet.
Everyone thought the engine was running, was someone holding the key or does it do that on its own? The solenoid was changed, ( no change) and so was the ignition switch which apparently started these issues. Universal 3 position auto zone special.
What symptoms prompted the ignition switch change may help sort it out.

 

the OEM switch that was in the car broke as i turned the key - not just the tumbler but the connectors inside it broke. so i needed a new switch and got the one from autozone - not a good idea.

the solenoid clicking was when i turned the key ON to the IGNITION side of the switch. one thing i do not understand is that it seems like my starting/charging/and ignition circuits all come thru 1 wire to the key switch. i'd think the circuits should be more isolated? i can literally take the power wire from the battery to the key and tap it to the wire going out to the solenoid and the car will try and start (with the jumper battery anyway). is this normal?