Fitting a Model-A rear crossmember into a '32 frame

This is the Model-A rear crossmember install for a '36 rear axle and bones. I decided to flare the ends of the crossmember with a smaller radius than previously which lends the rear crossmember a more elegent look but the steel is more difficult to bend and you'll need to pursuade it with a big hammer.
The '36 bones and a 1/2 - 3/4 inch longer wheelbase to center the rear wheels do push the rear crossmember rearwards. A stock '32 gas tank will need modification to fit.
I fitted strengthening plates to the inside of the rails like Henry did.

 

I thought all V8 fords were 7 1/4" between axle centreline and the rear spring bolt hole

 

That might be but if you're using a straight Model-A rear spring on a '32-'34 rear axle it'll be less due to the absence of the curved rear spring.

 

Here is a very basic question, what is the basic level point on a '32 chassis, the bottom of the rail? Are both front and rear crossmembers set level to it, and castor is set by the wishbone rear mount?

 

Front crossmember should be installed with 5-7 degrees rearward tilt so the spring is not in a bind when installed at correct caster.

Frank

 

I just put an A rear member in my '32 rails. It was cut a little short before I got it, so we actually had to add some metal in to make it fit.
It's shown in my build thread, and this week I plan to wrap up that part. I'm also using '36 bones on mine.

 

OK, is that 5-7 degrees determined with the top of the rail dead level? Then there is the pinion angle on the rear, if you're going to use a 9 inch Ford, or other non 28-48 rear. What I'm trying to say is all this has to be set before the wheel and tire height enter the mix, correct?

 

Best thing since sliced bread. Thanks for your posting.

 

anything more to add to this post ?

 

I'll resurect this thread....I just finished the technique for the front cross member and now I'm starting with the rear. I got the old stock '32 rear cross member out and am getting ready to trim the model A one tofit.

I am running a '40 Ford rear end. I have taken measurememnts to put the model A crossmember in the exact location (spring wise) as the '32. It ended up being towards the rear like the '36 banjo above....I assume this is correct. I want to keep the stock '32 wheel base.


Thanks

 

How did it turn out? Post some pictures.
Ed

 

Bump for 2014.

 

If you run a model a crossmember and spring in the rear wont the crossmember need to be moved forward some since the spring is not curved like a 32? How much would you move it forward from the stock 32 location, or what is the difference in the straight a spring and curved 32 spring? I may be assembling a 32 chassis for my 31 coupe, trying to do all the homework before I start.

I know this thread is old but it is very informative!!!

 

Nice! Thanks for posting!

 

The rear spring on a 32-34 is curved, but the crossmember is as well. Running an A crossmember with a straight spring keeps the rear axle in the same position as a curved spring with a curved crossmember.

 

Great information on modifying the cross members. I plan on riveting my whole 32 frame for my 29 CC pickup.

 

Only if you use post-34 rear axles designed for straight springs. If using a 32-34 designed for curved springs you'll have to do some math. But the angled shackle hangers will give you problems anyway so you'll need to heat and bend them.

 

Bump for 2019

Where in Europe is it possible to find a stamped Model-A rear crossmember for a "reasonable" price?

Collecting parts to start building myself a new 32 frame for my roadster. I have found most of the main parts that I need to get started but still no rear Model-A crossmember.

Thanks,
Lidstrom - Sweden

 

If you plan to buy one off eBay ask the seller if he will ship directly to you and not use the eBay shipping. I've always wondered how much extra that adds to things. Bob

 

Yes the shipping cost is usually somewhere around $100-$120. On top of that slap in the face I will also have to pay 25% tax on total part+shipping for everything purchased outside the European Union. It’s lovely.

 

Bringing up this old tech thread. I want to thank Edward Lloyd for posting this tech article years ago. I just installed a model a rear crossmember in my 32 frame this way & it came out great! I did weld mine instead of riveting it in. It was worth the time to do it as it looks so much better than leaving a gap. Thanks for the idea Ed!

 

Thanks for bring this back akoutlaw!