Fitting Model A Radiator: Hits Fan!!!!!

Yes, the straight edge is laying flat against the firewall. Just another thought. but if you are using an "A" frame you could use the side motor mounts to give you an approximate location. Even if they aren't there, you would still have the bolt holes.

Just a thought,
Mitch

 

Mitch, appreciate that. Mine is about 3/8 off that same driver's side head nut. But as I said when I put on the front original A mount it lands dead center in it's front crossmember hole. Weird!!!

 

There must be some variation from car to car on this without causing a problem? like an 8th her or there no? Once I brought the motor up on the jack to fit the front mount I seemed to gain some clearance. Now at about 3/8 fan nut to rad. The oddity also is the starter. When this motor was in the AA the starter rod dropped right into place, on the rod it is out, and I can manipulate it by removing the housing on top of starter, putting in rod first then replacing housing, but this seems wrong........

 

I'll try to post up some pics........

 

Ok Pics.......
Let's start with one to get us excited about what she will look like. Thanks for the headlight mock up girls!!!!!

 

Hmmm...post #63...seems to be raising an angle problem. A motor mounts at a pretty steep uphill pitch, which of couse pulls fan hub away from radiator.
Have you put a level up against the stock manifold carb flange??
Right now I'm looking at a side view in the old Dyke's manual. Picture seems to show '30-31 radiator...at the pitch shown the fanblade tip at top is at least 4 times as far from radiator as the one pointed down.

 

Ok, down to business. Here is a picture showing the front A mount. Lines up nicely with the crossmember hole. Looks odd in pic but trust me its bang on.

 

oops, here is the crossmember pic........

 

Yes Bruce!!! with the motor jacked up now, the fan is exactly as you stated. Fanblade tip at top is at least 4 times as far from radiator as the one pointed down.

 

Here is a shot at the firewall..........

 

5/8 clearance at top blade

 

3/16 bottom on blade

 

3/8 at fan nut
However shaft has a 16th of forward play making it 5/16

 

Pull that pump, remove impeller and slide it forward and repin on shaft, grind off any excess length at rear?? Anyway, look over Bratton's catalog...it's been a while since I had a pump apart. They sell a collar for killing off end play in the A, and all A innards are the same as '32 B except the impeller. Kill the endplay, and of course add '32 type steady rods so engine cannot move forward.

(From memory, I think endplay stock is controlled by impeller one way, that socket in head the other way. Said socket is often worn and rusted away, and shaft is repro of dubious precision, so the sftermarket collar is used to add an endplay stop at front of shaft.)

 

I see where the steady rods go thru my 33 34 bell housing however I wonder how they land on the k member? Looks as if they would land on the angled part of k member yet the rare and only pic I have seen of the rods have non angled plates that bolt on.... Where can you get these? Or do I just make em?

 

Dude, your trippin. Listen to Bruce Lancaster. Work that pump over. Bend the blades slightly. Get some room out of the radiator mounting holes. Start driving it ese.

 

And what are you thoughts on my current fan clearance and firewall distances? Besides fixing impeller issue of course. Still different it seems from Brent for instance....

 

Make em. Move forward. Put it behind you.

They hold the torque to the chassis, so they would be better pulling on a K member that's more paralle than perpendicular to.

 

Haha. I know!! I always listen closely to Bruce! He knows his stuff and is always willing to go out of his eay to help. Don't know bout bending blades though......

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=736842&highlight=rods covers '32 rods. '33 are spaced a bit differently but you should be able to come up with something. Rods can go to FRONT xmember, too, if that works, or you can ream out a bellhousing hole...

I would not speculate further on current spacing without a stock Model A handy for reference. Remember Model A bellhousing mounts are effectively entirely rigid, so there is no forward play .

 

They hold the torque tube to the chassis? Huh? I thought they stop the motor and Trans from moving forward and aft by pinning it to the k member?

 

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/brearmotormounts.htm
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/flywheelhousings.htm
From Vince's B site

 

I did a quick engine switch about 2 months ago, I put a 4 blade on, started it & it was hitting, a slight tweek & drove it to work everyday for about a month, the blade did break the spot welds from the pulley but the pump had about a 1/2" play I neglected to re-pack. I think the 1/2"play caused it to break. I might weld it back together . . . Na, the two extra blades were slowing me down.

Take the rad off & grind the shaft & nut down. It only metal Johhny. Let go cruising.

 

Love that site. Does anyone have a picture of the stay rods in their stock location on a '32 '33 '34? I'll make them but by the looks of it the one side will land fine on the k member but the other side will go right into the pedal assembly. (no pedals in yet here).

 

Go forward to the front or to the side rails, which will help prevent fan/radiator conflicts. Maybe and another suplimental front crossmember under the crank pulley.

Dont think too hard, but think outside the box. Kind of ironic, huh.

 

Here's what I've found out...

AA radiator is 2 5/8" and my radiator (stock) from a car (based on the running boards) was 2". So there's that solved.

Also, the distance from the nut on the fan and the radiator is nearly 1". Mine has a little rash from hitting said nut. I don't know how, or under what conditions, but the evidence is there.

 

As for putting the motor at the correct angle, I should do so by seeing that the carb flange is level? Is this a good method? If so level with ground or frame rail? Truck might have a slighy angled stance, lower in front, when done......?

 

Here's the alignment point! Slide the handcrank in; if it doesn't go into the socket on crank, the motor is in the wrong place. You can improvise with a rod of some kind through rad shell and spring mount if you have chosen AAA over the handcrank.

 

Good call Bruce. Thanks. Man I'm stupid sometimes.