Ca some tell me the site that had the s10 ****** (5 speed) swap on a chevy 235 six? Or give me the info? Thanks much.
Chevytalk.org most likely, if you're talking a T5 out of an S10 anyhow. You need a '55-'62 car or like '48-'59 truck bell to make it work; the input shaft is about an inch too long - you can either have it milled down or for $100 buy a spacer plate adapter. Of course you need to go to an open rear, too. I was thinking the other day wondering if '50 Pontiac springs could be adapted to a Chevy, seems like the Pontiac had an open rear so they'd be stronger and so forth. Then again I was trying to look at a DeSoto, not the '50 Pontiac on it's side, I didn't pay too close attention.
Go look at the Tech tips at Stovebolt.com and Inliners.org. They'll cover most anything you want to know on the swap. After that, go to the top of this Forum and post an introduction, before the intro police come down on you like screaming death from above. No foolin'. Post back here later if you have more ? on this swap. *****6
Here's some info from KC****o's site. He and I have done this a time or two. http://www.****osgarage.com/tech/****o/t5/index.htm Basically.. Part Numbers 97/8" Disc for use with Stock 10" Clutch: O'Reilly's part number RCF4201 Just under 9" disc for use with stock 9" Clutch: O'Reilly's part number RCF4190 Just let me know if you need anything else. r
"Benefits/problems with this pairing?" No problems, all benefits. The standard S-10 overdrive has a .85 final gear ratio. If you want more, then get a T-5 out of a '80's Camaro/Firebird and swap the S-10 tail housing and shifter onto it. You'll end up with a final overdrive ratio of .65. Go run with the big dogs... On the way down to MoKan, porkn****** told me he had to run up to 90 or so to keep up with me. I thought I was just trying to stay ahead of traffic, that's all...honestly officer... r
i used the 10" flywheel an pressure plate from a 62 235 truckand the disc was for a jeep, i think. bell housing from 55-up car, cut off the end of the input shaft, trimmed the bearing retainer, used the throwout bearing for a older v8, there are basically two, a short and a long, use the long one. used my 53s throwout fork and shortened the mechanism to get it all straight
From what Langdon's told me, there is no problem with input shaft length. Also, and I have not tried it yet, a '55-59 third member will drop right into a '47-54 rearend housing (axles fit). You just need to weld spring perches on.
RF, I don't think a 55-59 chunk will fit in the housing. I tried one once, but, it could have been something else. The only word of caution I can offer is be sure to check the rear ratio's. When I had a 5 spd in my 53 with a camaro rear end I had a problem pulling up a steep grade. Going through the mountains south of here, I had it in 2nd gear, wound up and still getting p***ed like I was standing still.
i have a 55 rear in my 53. i bought u bolts and stuck it in. even reused the brakes. perfect fit, but as anyone at the drags saw, wheel hop is a bit of an issue.
No, I meant just the pumpkin. I've got a complete '57 rear, too, but I want to try converting the stock '53 rear to open drive with a new '55 3.9'ish third member. Again, according to Langdon's, the only internal difference between the closed and '55-9 open rears are inner axle bearing seals; everything else "meshes" so to speak. We'll see, but I'll definitely have the complete '57 rear on hand if the conversion doesn't work!
"The only word of caution I can offer is be sure to check the rear ratio's. When I had a 5 spd in my 53 with a camaro rear end I had a problem pulling up a steep grade. Going through the mountains south of here, I had it in 2nd gear, wound up and still getting p***ed like I was standing still." I started with a 3.90 rear gear and the stock 235 cid with 135/16's out back. Ran fine, no problems pulling it's weight. I now have a 3.27 rear gear (with discs) and 215/15's and it still pulls fine. r
the torque tube rearend is on a pivot mount, it'll move around and break u joints if you dont add a torque arm or weld on mounts. its alot easier to drill two 1/2" holes to relocate the 57 rearend and use u bolts. .02
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