Fixing primer sand throughs?

I’m painting some interior pieces for my 54 Chevy. I sprayed them with feather fill. I keep having small sand through areas. The spots are not really worth the h***le of recoating with a spray gun. I’m thinking about mixing up some primer and touching up these small spots with a brush or maybe just using spray can primer on these small spots. Does anyone have any other suggestions? I’m using lacquer for the final finish. Thanks.

 

Hey,

Don't kid yourself, if you're going to topcoat these in lacquer, sand,
prime complete and resand CAREFULLY! Lacquer, unlike urethane is
thinned @ 150-200% thinner. With all that acetone in the mix any
slite rough areas will probably swell. Doubtful, the sandcratches will
coloursand and polish out, and than you'll be right back where you
started. Lacquer, as a rule won't take any **** off ya, preperation
wise!

S****ey Devils C.C.

 

Pimpin paint, Thanks for the advice. I just dont feel like the work involved with cleaning the gun and wasted solvent is justified by a tiny sand though. I'll probably use a foam brush to touch up this small spot and resand. What is the highest grit you usually sand with before spraying lacquer top coat?

 

Are you sure the paint you're using is actually lacquer? Most lacquers were made illegal in this state (California) probably 10 years ago. If you use a catalyzed urethane or enamel, you can probably just paint over it and not have any problems. But lacquer tends to curl up the edges of primer sort of like paint stripper and make a horrible mess.

Don't use spray can primer under lacquer. A lot of them wrinkle up or swell up and you'll see where you sprayed it under the lacquer. Or the edges of the primer will wrinkle up and the rest stay flat, but the result is still ugly.

If you're using a light colored lacquer, the sand through spots might show up as dark areas since the paint is semi transparent.

It might help to spray over everything with a sealer or use epoxy primer reduced to go down as a sealer. If you spray the epoxy primer carefully, you won't have to sand again, and depending on what brand of epoxy primer you use, you have a day or sometimes up to 5 days to spray the finish coat over it without any further sanding.

 

I'm using "Restoration Shop" acrylic lacquer from TCP global.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/rspaclac.aspx

 

Very small sand thrus on interior parts will be OK without repriming. The paint will actually be the primer on the small bare spots, and will be just fine. Just put the first coat of color on medium to light build and blow light air from the paint gun on it to speed flashing of the solvent, then let it dry for around 10-15 minutes before the next coat. Let each coat dry pretty good before putting on the next. If you get lifting on the sand thru edges with featherfill as a primer, you have probably put on too heavy a coat or used too slow of a thinner in the paint. If it lifts, let it dry, and lightly sand those areas (500# or 600# wet) before continuing with color, using lighter coats and with a faster thinner to reduce it. I suppose it's warm in CA so try do this under 75 degrees F and NOT in direct sunlight, while using the appropriate temperature thinner for the paint (fast dry for small areas).

overspray

 

If you over reduce some bands of primer they become sealers. I've reduced primers so far as to allow the mix to flow properly through my airbrush. Yep, you read it right. It works! Just spray light coats, and blow dry with the airbrush inbetween coats. Spray enough to slightly overbuild. AND, immediately clean your airbrush out. AND then clean it again. Primer's are catalized and will turn into cement inside your airbrush. After, guide coat the area. Let it all dry, then stick it flat. Tip: pour water over the entire area an look at it from a low vantage point. You'll see if it's flat or not. Now you can continue to your top coat. Be kool, Loppy

 

Thanks for all the advice. Well I painted one of the trim rings last night to see how it would turn out. The paint layed down fine and I didnt get any lifting spots over the small sand throughs. I did however get a few runs but I realized I still had the 2.0 tip in the gun. I'm gonna wet sand the trim ring and repaint it with the 1.4 tip and see if that stops the runs.

 

I did that once early on and washed silver pearl all over a piece, not fun. For my own interior piece I'd let it roll. On a customer's body, no way.