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Projects Flat FED build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by roseville carl, Jan 14, 2010.

  1. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,432

    64 DODGE 440
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from so cal

    WTF??
     
  2. Old6rodder
    Joined: Jun 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,546

    Old6rodder
    Member
    from SoCal
    1. HA/GR owners group

    Pressure plate on the Barn Job. Hit the scatter shield hard enough to bend it, pulling both frame rails in. Hence, the spreader. :oops:
     
  3. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,432

    64 DODGE 440
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from so cal

    Forgot about that one. Back in the days you sat in front of the engine.
     
  4. looked like that could have been UGLY there, Dick
     
  5. Got a little done tonight, made a stiffner for radius rod 20221027_182107.jpg

    test fit
    20221027_182322.jpg

    got er tacked in place
    20221027_201736.jpg

    now on to finish welding then get the other side done...............
     

    Attached Files:

  6. ok now maybe its T&T time again........
    from this....
    20221001_111504.jpg
    to this..............
    20221031_112938.jpg
    20221031_113003.jpg
     
  7. Harv
    Joined: Jan 16, 2008
    Posts: 1,275

    Harv
    Member
    from Sydney

    G'day Carl,

    A quick question please. I should get my FED chassis home in the next month or so. Similar paint scheme - black rails with chrome at the front end (... am dreading going to chrome jail). I'm not sure whether to paint the rails (probably 2-pack) or get them powdercoated. Costs will be similar. According to legend both powdercoat and 2-pack are hard to touch up, but not impossible. Have heard both can be durable (resistant to knocks) but not impervious.

    Appreciate your views please.

    Cheers,
    Harv
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  8. hate to say this Harv but my frame is painted with Rustoleum Gloss Black from quart can and spray gun, and for touch up use I use a brush. Not show quality but works for me and is passible and easily repairable. Since I didn't have the front end rechromed, just cleaned er up and sprayed Rustoleum chrome paint on the parts messed up, it works for me.......,.
    Also for me as I am always trying new shit it doesn't fit into my plans to powder coat anything that I may be welding on in the future............
     
    chryslerfan55, AmishMike and Blues4U like this.
  9. joemac05
    Joined: Jul 29, 2006
    Posts: 472

    joemac05
    Member


    If it don't go chrome it. if its a working girl no one will notice it's just paint... <Grin>

    It took me years to get my sprint car racing partner to quit powder coating everything. In competitive sprint racing you are always either repairing or redesigning the dammed thing. :confused:

     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  10. spanners
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 2,197

    spanners
    Member

    What Carl says is right especially when getting started. You will modify bits and powder coating is the worst to touch up.
    Mine's not show quality in the slightest so I used Dulux black enamel from that hardware store. It's been on there for nearly 10 years and over 600 passes and holds up ok. I touch it up with rattle can if required.
     
    AmishMike likes this.
  11. Been helping a friend with his car, Eagle in May.....
    20230121_121315.jpg 20230121_121324.jpg 20230121_121334.jpg 20230121_121343.jpg 20230121_121353.jpg 20230121_122653.jpg 20230121_122703.jpg 20230121_122716.jpg 20230121_122725.jpg
     
  12. spanners
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 2,197

    spanners
    Member

    Looks good Carl. Looks fast standing still.
     
  13. Also today in Forever 43
     
  14. spanners
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 2,197

    spanners
    Member

    I don't blame you for getting excited. Bet your neighbours love you.
     
  15. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,476

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    Looks sharp, the only criticism are the steering arms, IF you are running the ty-rod in front of the axle, you need to bend them out towards the wheel as much as you can. the Ackerman is so off, that if you turn the wheels full lock , the outer wheel radius will turn more/sharp and scrub . It will not be perfect, but a whole lot better than it is now
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  16. thanks will tell him.......
     
  17. ukgav
    Joined: Jun 16, 2008
    Posts: 347

    ukgav
    Member

    Just catching up with this thread. Fantastic!
    I had some flathead FED fun last year in this 'loaner'.
    POD_5071.JPG
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  18. spanners
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 2,197

    spanners
    Member

    Please don't take this the wrong way. You've had more to do with building fast cars than I ever will but I'm curious why you're concerned about Ackerman angle on a drag car. Mine is set up like this and is a one hand steer at admittedly just on 100mph 1/4 mile.
    DSC_0470.JPG DSC_0468.JPG
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  19. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,476

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    No Problem--- If you can do it correctly and without any measurable expense--- Why not??? You still have to turn the car to get it off an on the track. If you have the chance, look down on your front end from the top of a ladder and have somebody turn the wheels, Some people are more worried about the amount of toe in or out then they are steering geometry. For the race cars I build, front tires are extremely expensive and anything I do that can prolong their life is money in my pocket. Nice Engine, I too am building a Chevy II for my dragster,
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2023
  20. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,476

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

  21. spanners
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 2,197

    spanners
    Member

    It steers good enough to turn at the end of a run but yes, I wouldn't like to be negotiating a supermarket carpark with it.
    My engine is a Holden Grey six cylinder motor approximate 1956 vintage. 138 cu.in. of tar tearing power:D.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  22. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,476

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    Again your car and you have every rite to build it the way you want. In my business "Good enough" doesnt work
     
  23. spanners
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 2,197

    spanners
    Member

    Once again, I'm not hassling you. In fact I envy builders such as yourself for what you construct. I bought this as an unfinished project and the frontend was already installed. I decided to leave it as was and try it. The original wheelbase was 103" but I added a frame section to stretch it to 113".
    Sorry Carl, I didn't mean to railroad your thread.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  24. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,476

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    Its not "HIGHJACKING" when a discussion on issues. Many look at the pics to give them ideas on how things are built an take it as gospel to copy for their builds. Even Aftermarket racing spindles have it wrong when they include arms, cant take into account the many variations that exist, But it does a better job when the ty-rod is behind the axle. In front just adds more problems because one turned the spindles around
     
  25. there is no Highjacking when important issues are brought up........
    by the way nice car UKGAV love it!!!!
     
  26. ukgav
    Joined: Jun 16, 2008
    Posts: 347

    ukgav
    Member

  27. youngrodder1929
    Joined: May 28, 2006
    Posts: 478

    youngrodder1929
    Member

  28. great Saturday
     
    ALCAN AV8 and loudbang like this.
  29. Darren Simas
    Joined: Dec 6, 2022
    Posts: 1

    Darren Simas

  30. another great Test n Tune
     

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