Hot Rods flat vs. satin vs. matte and clear coats?

I've been trying to figure out the differences between these finishes and ended up with nothing but a headache. I mean, I know flat is..., well, flat and satin has a low sheen (not really a gloss) but matte? I'm clueless; I'm starting to believe that 'matte' is just another word for satin, not a real finish. But I'm wandering... back to the point.
Okay, here is the situation. I've got a '51 Ford Deluxe sedan and I want to paint it (I think) in satin black. No problem right? Well, when I talked to my (almost a real) painter buddy I told him I wanted satin but I wanted it sealed with some kind of clear coat; I'm tired of the washed out look that un-sealed blacks get from weather and sun, that almost white dusty look that comes from age, and the stains that soak in and look like crap. (I hope that makes sense). He said that a clear coat over a satin equals a gloss black paint job; (he said it in that tone the teacher used with the special kids in school).
So finally my question is this: Do I have to just put up with paint that looks crappy within a season or is there some way to clear coat or seal a satin paint-job without getting a glossy finish?

 

Take a look around....cars that are left in the sun with clear coat look like hell in short order. Paint it satin black and don't leave it in the sun all day every day. At least you can easily shoot the car again, if a silly clear coat is not there, if in fact there is paint damage down the road.

 

I'll be watching this. I love a glossy finish, but I can't afford a professional body guy. I'm going with matte (probably the same as "satin" for all I know) black paint to hide my sins. But yeah, it should be durable.

 

They make flat clear. HOK, and others.

 

Agree, satin or flat clear over whatever color you want.
If you're set on a satin job think about some cheap base, maybe throw some metallic in as well.

Flat clear needs a good painter, no buffing so what you shoot is what you get, makes sure to get you final coats wet and overlap more than usual, use a slow reducer to keep a wet edge. If you get tiger stripes, you'll be shooting it again.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/KUS-KIT-HRF289-M-QT_2.html?gclid=CK3VuLa0_80CFYgAaQodOx8D2w#.V44NJ8tOnqB

 

Sounds like it would be less trouble to just put some shiny acrylic enamel on it....

 

You can get clear coat or single stage paint flattened to whatever sheen you want at a quality paint store. They just add a flattening agent to the paint the more they add the flatter it gets so you can either put a flat clear over a BC/CC system or just get a good quality single stage paint flattened. Both will last just like a regular paint job would.

 

One man's flat is another man's matte. These terms are vague and everybody ( and even every manufacturer) has a different opinion. Paint techs will talk in terms of numerical degrees of gloss. Buy a ready made flattened clear or buy flattening agent to add yourself.
X2 on having a good painter. Get it right the first time, if it needs buffing that changes the gloss.

 

I agree with squirrel, shiny if you can.

SEM makes a flattening agent as well as others. Use any enamel or urethane you want, add flattening agent and spray out a few test panels to adjust gloss level. Or get it mixed as K13 suggests.

Southern polyurethane black epoxy also has UV additives to make it last as a top coat.

 

For comparison. First shot is black lacquer primer, second is "Kirker" hot rod black, satin urethane primer.

 

Things must be slow today, have a bttt.

 

Like Tim,I used Kirker SG Hot Rod Black.

The photo below shoes just how well the finish holds up,6 years and still looked great.HRP

 

My brother used a clear from PPG called Flexed and Flat I believe. He put it on over a black base and it looked great. A few years later he used it again under a red base coat and it looked even better. Hope this helps. It is probably more expensive than the products mentioned above.

 

Binger: Glad you mentioned the cost. The Kirker product, one gallon plus activator (whatever they call it) was under $100. Makes it real do-a

ble.

 

Lots of excellent info, thanks folks. Timwhit and Hotrodprimer, that is exactly the look I'm going for, and if it is that durable (6 years would be amazing, in my book), I'll be ordering some on payday. I'm going to do the spray myself so trying to get a flattened clear to lay down correctly would be a challenge, as indyjps described it. I'm no pro painter so I try to keep it simple.
Thanks again!

 

Imron industrial coatings makes a satin polyurethane primer and satin polyurethane paint. Both work great and do not fade.


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There's a company called Gillespie Coatings that makes mil-spec flat and semi-gloss black. They're big in the Military Vehicle restoration field, the stuff is reputed to last for many years even in direct continuous sun and weather.

Eli

 

I had some black nitrocellouse based lacquer that I added a flattening agent to and achieved a 30 degree or so gloss that is a like a egg shell gloss. That has held up fine no chalkiness, but doesn't look like a glass gell coat either. Steel so I didn't want that.: Someday may scuff down and buff to shiny but so far been happy with it.

 

Since you're doing it, make sure you go at least 50% overlap with each pass.
Practice on a large enough panel to find the sweet spot and be patient as low gloss finishes take a day or 2 to "reveal" the total gloss level.
Plan to go both directions with the different coats, as in side to side then top to bottom.
These are not "some's good so more's better" products, so get too much on there and it will become glossy, or at least less flat than you wish. Usually 2 coats is the limit.
Finally, enjoy the project and keep a positive outlook. Nothing comes out better than it will with that one simple ingredient. Good luck...