I have a good running flathead that I pulled out of a shoebox 2 years ago, before I pulled it out the car had a 12v battery that the car was running just fine off of. I am getting ready to wire my new project up and have a question. I do not see a 12v marking on the coil, the generator has no marking on it either. this car ran with the 12v battery before I pulled it and I drove it. is there a way to positively identify the points in the dizzy as being 12v? I can replace the coil to assure myself there. What is the best way to test the generator as being 12v? I have never converted a 6v to 12v and want to make sure I go about this properly. It may already be convereted as I am assuming it would cook the points if it werent. Thanks
No diff in the points, 6 or 12v. Put a 12v coil with a normal resistor and starting bypass wire and go. If it was running and charging, it was probably already converted to 12v.
Points, condensors, don't have voltage requirements. If the car was alive and running the generator obviously is a 12 V
I wouldn't worry too much about the polarity of the coil. I have read all the tips for checking to see if your coil is wired correctly and the only thing I got out of applying all that knowledge is a bunch of shocks. Unless you are running high compression, supercharged, then worry about the coil polarity. Just wire it up,and look to see if a resistor is inline from the key on circuit. That will tell you if it was wired as a 6 or 12 volt coil. I would invest in at least a cheap volt meter to see what's happening with the generator at start up, to make sure you don't have a horrible spike. Look for a slight rise in voltage from key on engine off to key on engine on. Maybe 12.0 KOEF to ~14.5 KOEO. Don't worry about points, but 6v thru the coil to the points will increase longevity. If I was to spend the money, I would put a 6V coil with ballast resistor and let those points last as long as I could. 12V will burn them up quicker, that's why Ford ran 6V coils for so long.
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