@Ed95 No affect on Boots . Mounting depends on intake , Mounting bolts on inside allows for narrow mounting area , (intake surface) You drill a squared off pocket hole & use Typically a cap screw bolt or taper head bolt , or regular head bolt ,if using Regular head bolt you need enough room to get the socket over the head of the bolt. "" & have to be low enough so rotors do not hit "" studs or bolts .030-.040 recess/ below in case .. Some flip case , there are a few ways to do , I feel all same amount of work. & look you want , & some times a certain way is only way you can do, Intake , or if adaptor needed for flat mouthing surface.. Not necessary But mill almost required again not necessary... Also how much detail you wanting to do to case ?? Alot of material needed to be removed if you want bottom to flow like top rounded is case Looking Round Or Oval by eye .. study pictures below to get a I deal how each one is done Diffrent , & all shown are Not the "" inside mounting "" The one $700 ins New cast F-H intake with 4 mounting ears , If you cut ears off , now witch way are you going to mount ? In side bolts Make windows in intake to access nuts or studs , Mill pockets ect. Then you have Option of 3:71,4:71 V case mount , Not as I pretty but another option .... & done these kind of mod's need to look 2& 3 steps some times more ahead !!
I see that makes sense! I like the pruned look better for sure and also like the HH falthead intake. The pop off valves are very nice to have
@Ed95 Not trying to discourage , when using a drill press with certain task you should use a beefy drill press , One that will Not flex , Drill center line & table .. The more accurate drilling will make Job easer & not get over stressful .. Back to drill press , Average one not a big deal to drill, & Hope fully speed adjustable, Drilling 1 inch or less , but lets say 3 ish inch or more & there flex in table or drill The hole will not be straight .. Also clamping , big enough table & sometime require unique thinking to hold .. Me some time's I give a little wiggle room in parts so I can make sure if needed to square things up . You are more likely going to need a ***ortment of different carbite's One's for cutting Aluminum fast Then fine ones for finishing , Different shapes & sizes .. Since seem your first time , Set back study & look, maybe notes & sketch draw.
LOL I see. I have a drill press. not worried about drilling the holes for studs now that I understand how that works...what's the best way to go about pruning the case? removing all that material seems like it will be fun!
definitely my first time! But I want to do it. I want to do most if not all of it myself. I understand there may be some tasks I am just not gonna be able to do.
I used bolts on my pruned 471 but I wish I had done the studs in retrospect. The reason is it is difficult to thread bolts in from the bottom, in a confined space, with fat fingers, while trying to align the blower and gasket. I ended up gluing the gasket to the blower then placing it and threading the bolts. Mike at H&H recommended not using grade 8 bolts, but said it likely wouldn't matter if there was a catastrophic event. If mine ever has to come back apart I'll be using studs when I reinstall.
Billy, even with the studs its tough to get to the washers and nuts on. My fat fingers, water manifolds in the way, it tough! I pretty much decided I would bolt the blower to the manifold then down to the block, but if have to take it apart I will have to drain the water remove the water manifolds then the intake or blower. Pruned cases look great but do create other problems.
The cost of cool! I have had mine off twice, it wasn't a nightmare, but it required patience and I had forgot to stock up on that.
where there is a will there is a way. 4-71 with homemade plenum on top of 2x4 manifold with homemade end plate and drive and idler bracket
I love the simplicity of a bolt-on blower adapter like that! The extra height it provides probably helps fit things in there, too! 3blap.
For best results, I recommend a machinist with equipment and experience. Take the pieces to him and explain what you want to fit together. Let him figure out how to do it. It will be cheaper and you will have better results. JMHO
I think the best path forward is to customize my current crank pulley. I'm thinking to add another groove to fit another v belt. My plan is to keep the alternator/pumps on the current v belt. and leave the 2 other grooves for the blower snout. Has anyone done any of this before? Is there an easy way to add a groove to it? I don't have a lathe but if i need a machine shop to do it then I guess I'll do that. Just wanna keep it budget friendly
There's a guy in the cl***ifieds that has a crank pulley that he made/makes for sale. Just buy it. It's not cheap, but it looks good. You really can't modify the stock pulley without compromising it, as it's very thin like sheetmetal. 3blap.
@Ed95 Yes , you could have a spacer pulley made to set inside the steel pulley With same OD V , use crank bolt & 2 or more dowel pin to lock & align . I would think Machine Shop Yr looking @ $ 300 -400 Time & material Or look for steel pulley ring OD & V same as crank V & tig weld to
i have a chevy blower hub i scored at a swap meet cheap looking at it the id is a lil smaller than a flathead i bet you could get one opened up a lil i mean its literally pretty close and would at least give you somthing sound to work off of ,,, thats my plan just not yet ,,,then fit it with a multiple sheeve pulley , making shure its billet and not cast fabricator john miss you dad
If you're pruning the 4-71 mounting flange just because of the 59AB water necks and you have a standard 4-71 mounting manifold similar to below available, why not just prune the center ribs areas and carefully blend it into the OEM mountings and their adjacent ribs. That would make the fastening and gasket aspect much more conventional and allow the use of safer aluminum studs that are typically used on blown alky race set-ups.
We are using a small block chevy blower hub. Not in the pic but we have a single v belt and 2" blower belt.
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