Hot Rods Flathead advice

I am trying to assemble a list of cam and valve choices to build a badder flathead. I am looking for advice on what works to make more power. I have usually only ran over cammed mostly stock engines. I am hoping to run a large cammed flatty that might make a bit more power. This will be a bored and stroked 8ba

 

All the normal mods will give more power.
The one must,,, is to be certain that the heads fit as close as possible ( .050 - .048 )
Best way to measure clearance using little balls of tin foil to cleck clearance.
Done right, one gets max lower end torque.

 

I was actually only checking for enough clearance in the past. So is the 400jr still the right choice? or can I do better?

 

In my opinion, ANY lift above 370-380 may cause interference with the spark plug and exhaust valve especially if the “hook” on the plug extends too deep in2 the chamber. Try and find a plug that fills or nearly fills all the threads in the head with minimal “hook” extending in2 the chamber. Newer heads are generally better than used heads because used heads MAY have been “cut” to maintain their straightnes(perfectly flat”) and could cause a problem regarding spark plug selection. Yes, the Isky 400 jr is a gr8 cam but could be troublesome because of the .400 lift. Also, be aware there is not 3-4-5 h.p. Difference between the more expensive finned aluminum heads and Henry cast iron. Yes, I prefer the alum heads because of looks and they are lighter than cast iron. If u choose aluminum heads, make sure u go to a boat shop and purchase a sacrificial anode that will minimize the corrosion(electrolosis of aluminum) when placed in the water supply system of your flathead. If not used, your heads will suffer extensive corrosion within five years. The anodes can be cut down and holes drilled in them with a 12-14 gauge wire to retrieve them from the water supply to scrape off the(barnacles) offensive corrosion and return to their place.

 

Plenty has been written on various ways to increase power. It's pretty much the engine that built hot rodding. I'd offer a couple of points, even though I've never built one. This will apply to any engine upgrade.

First, a candle that burns twice as bright lasts half as long is an old saying. Figure out what the intended use is and spend as much time on keeping it alive as hopping it up. Since this isn't a computer-locked whizzbang, get good at tuning. Old analog engines require and respond to adjustments, both in power and longevity.

Second, unless you are doing all the engine work, find a good reputable builder and follow their advise for the build rather than come in with a list of demands. They have been doing it longer and have a recipe or two that is known and proven. These will vary, but telling a pro what combo you want and how to do it is going to start the relationship off poorly.

 

my current setup is an older rebuilt 8ba with 400jr and Isky valve springs and a vintage Sharp heads. I am reusing the Sharp heads. This engine will be getting new valves and ported. Is the Chevy valves still good option?