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FLATHEAD buildup. flatoz's roadster gets a new heart

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by flatoz, Nov 4, 2006.

  1. flatoz
    Joined: May 11, 2003
    Posts: 3,237

    flatoz
    Member

    well, a few non hot rod issues have put a kink in my style, and seriously dulled the enthusiasm. But have sorted thru most of them so will be planning on getting back into it probably next week at the stage.

    After speaking to Grant re the rings I decided to purchase another set. I spoke to the owner and he ***ured me that the gap I had was not an issue, I would have used the rings I had on a non blown motor, but as it does have a blower I do want a lower gap. no loss really as I can use them on something later down the track.

    the next big issue is sort out the crank. I feel that it is the end play that is the issue.

    Joe, I have plastigauged the crank and got 1.5 thou so I am guessing that its no end play that is the issue. but will invetigate further. The motor was line bored and they had the bearings and crank etc so should have done the job properly, but like with everything, I have to check to be sure.
     
  2. Ahhh,

    What is it with machine shops????

    Danny
     
  3. Use a dial indicator dude - let me know when you wanna do t and Ill see If I can bring a dial indicator.

    We need accuracy here. Did you leave out the rear main seal?

    Rat
     
  4. CheatersPete
    Joined: Sep 25, 2002
    Posts: 1,295

    CheatersPete
    Member

    Brootal explain me the thing about Export beers....ahahaha
     
  5. It's when the marketing department of a beer brewing company snorts too much cocaine on a Tuesday morning. They get this great idea to take the most **** Aussie beer and (as no-one drinks it in Australia), try to get the rest of the world to buy it!

    Well that's my take it on it anyway. :)
     
  6. flatoz
    Joined: May 11, 2003
    Posts: 3,237

    flatoz
    Member

    Well,

    I havent quite cleared the hump of OT stuff to be done, but I'm back in the saddle!:D

    got out there tonight and dragged the old girl out of the corner and unwrapped it. slight annoyance at finding some flash rust on the crank. but nothing that some 2000 wont get rid of.

    started mucking around with the crank. figured out that my ***umption was right no end play. so went hunting in the sand paper pile and unfortunately there wasnt much. I found some 2000 and some 180 and 280. was on the phone to rat bastad and he suggested rubbing the two together. ****** good suggestion that.

    so sanding away I went. the wife was at yoga, so as I didnt have any gl***, I found a mirror. Oh I also managed to get it back and hanging before she got home too :rolleyes:

    [​IMG]


    then it was just crank in and out until I had sufficient clearance.

    [​IMG]

    half way there...


    [​IMG]

    happy!

    torqued the crank in at 90 lbs and its still tough, but it swings. wondering if I dont need to take some out of the actual shells.

    well as I said, its not much but a ****** good step in the right direction! I'm a happy man:D
     
  7. I'm bettin' that's more 'cos you got the mirror back on the wall in time....otherwise Janine'd be usin' it to dice up your dried balls and inhail them like coke!

    I'm not sure you should have trusted a greek fella telling you to rub the ends together though....
     
  8. Nice shots dude.

    Great news !!...didnt hear from ya so I figgered you got it nutted out. If its still a tad tight, I normally Scotchbrite the shells, cleam 'em thoroughly and re -check. Usually works well for me and does'nt hurt the bearing.

    Gettin there man....nice work !! You'll be hittin the road very very soon !!

    Keep the pix a coming !!

    Rat
     
  9. If you have just the main bearings in - and no rear main seal, then with just a little oil on the bearings, you should be able to grab the snout of the crank and EASILY turn it over. When I set mine up, I can spin it with one hand and it is smooth and easy as can be. You should NOT have to screw with the bearings -- if the clearance is correct, it should be fine.

    As a rule, I allow .001 for every inch of crank shaft bearing diameter. Typically about .0025 on the mains. Have you put a dial indicator on the flywheel flange and then rocked the crank back/forth to measure the end-play? You should do this in addition to the feeler gauge - as it is a bit hard to measure the bottom side anyway.

    The only thing I've ever done to bearings is polished them a bit with fine Scotch Bright and lacquer thinner.

    Maybe just one of your mains is tight? I'd try combinations of 2 out of three bearings to see which one.

    Keep us posted . . .
     
  10. flatoz
    Joined: May 11, 2003
    Posts: 3,237

    flatoz
    Member

    Peddro, some of us have had a few more years to sort these things out. dont you live your life looking at everything just thinking how you could use that for a hotrod part?

    Rat, it was late and thought I would catch you today.

    B&S I am going to plastigauge the crank tonight. I dont have a dial indicator but think I might have to get hold of one. I did think about smoothing out the inside of the rear mains bearings as they look close too. I had started to do what you were saying when I was on the phone to rat, and I think my front set is a little tight.

    I have missed all the hotrod runs so I would rather take the time and do this right than my normal race to get things done effort.


    hopefully more soon...
     
  11. Hey Corey,

    Good news man, happy for you. Man when I read the mirror bit, I thought wow, you LOVE playing with fire huh!!!!!

    Danny
     
  12. Does that include looking at the perforated round stainless thingys at the base of urinals that could make excellent covers for 97s?
     
  13. well thats new - "piss" injection! should be good for a few more HP.... not to mention the odour generated! :eek:
     

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