I picked up this 8BA block at an estate sale a while back for $100. It had just come back from the machine shop after being cleaned up and having new cam bearings installed. The block is marked “v. Good” but then I noticed this crack in the lifter valley... Recommend repair? Or is this something that you forget about and run anyways? I appreciate any advice from the flathead experts out there Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'd have the block magnafluxed and see what turns up. If that is the only crack and it's not near anything vital, I'd run it.
Post your pictures over on the fordbarn.com web site. Someone there will know exactly what can be done.
Drill both ends for the crack to keep it from growing It doesn't look like the holes will hit water or oil.
Agree, small holes on each end, dremel a groove between the two, clean and clean again, blow w air, fill with metalized epoxy Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
I would take it to a shop. Like RMR said, have them magnaflux the block. Let them determine if it can be pinned or machined for you.
I believe it was magnafluxed. They've marked this one crack in the valley, and those two typical cracks between the water jacket and bolt hole, that's all I can see. I'm guessing the shop didn't see a major problem, or they wouldn't have changed the cam bearings, but who knows?
That's a weird place for a crack. Maybe a weak spot in the casting? Is it close to a cam bearing? Visible from the bottom side?
It’s a couple inches away from the center cam bearing, but it is not visible from the bottom. I was thinking casting as well? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Did you talk with the shop? That would be my first step. Ask them their opinion if they are reputable.
That’s the problem, not too sure what shop it came from. They mentioned it had just come back from the shop the day prior to the auction, but there was no mention of which shop.
This is the classic case of making a mountain out of a molehill , remember these flatheads are the most forgiving engine ever made. example, when Andy Granitelli ran Indy with his Grancor Spl. there was a rule that you could use so much oil and that was it, when he used up that said amount his pit crew filled the crankcase with soapy water to finish the race. google it and you will get the full story. Now you know where I stand and I say run it !
Saw an exact same crack in the same spot in the valley allow water into an 8BA for a milkshake. Get it pinned and loctite seal the water jackets to seal it up good.
Braised wud be the way....or like i previously said, drill, light grind, epoxy Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Someone may have marked those indications for a closer look. If you took it to a shop that does mag particle they could tell you whether they are relevant or non relevant in a couple minutes. Relevant being cracked & non relevant is surface. If the block has been cleaned then you could buy a liquid penetrant inspection kit and follow the instructions to do it yourself. If the dye test has a slight color bleed into the developer then it is surface. If it is a crack then it will be a strong color bleed into the developer.
Start phoning around all the local auto machine shops to ask if they just sent out that block. There aren't too many machine shops or flatheads these days. An old logger I worked for told me in the old days the rebuilders wouldn't take a flathead back as a core if it had any cracks whatsoever. Over time they had to be a bit less picky as they couldn't get any perfect cores. He said the shops would accept a crack leading to a stud, but not one between a valve seat and cylinder.
The Jalopy Journal
