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Technical Flathead Dual 94 Setup Help.

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Schwanke Engines, Mar 11, 2016.

  1. Schwanke Engines
    Joined: Jun 12, 2014
    Posts: 777

    Schwanke Engines
    Member

    So I am not a Carb guy, I do EFI Tuning for a living and thus I am kind of lost on where to start with Jets on my 286 Stroker Flathead Dual 94 Setup. I have a set of matched carbs, and have rebuild kits for them both. What I don't know is what a good baseline for the Jets would be. If anyone has any insight into this any help would be much appreciated.

    Engine Specs:
    1953 Ford Block
    Bore- 3.375"
    Stroke- 4.000"
    Ross Forged Pistons
    Isky Max-1 Cam
    Chevy Valves
    Adj. Lifters
    Edelbrock Aluminum Script Heads
    Edelbrock Dual Intake
    53 Distributor with Pertronix

    Ill be running an AOD behind the Engine so that may have some effect on the carb settings.
     
  2. Gene Boul
    Joined: Feb 9, 2006
    Posts: 805

    Gene Boul

    Unless you are at altitude anything close to stock jetting will be OK! The jet size is directly proportional to the venturii size. This is not fuel injection...
     
  3. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,545

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Do a search here on dual carb 94's. You will also find that your power valve size can vary. The best thing for a novice 94 user is to read the volumes of info here on the Hamb. Do a search here for dual carb 94's. It's also important for you to sync these carbs the proper way. That info is also available here. These are some of the simplest carbs holly has made.
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2016
  4. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,291

    alchemy
    Member

    I don't do 94's or late model flatheads. But I've read here on the HAMB or the Fordbarn a million times about difficulty getting a stock late flathead distributor's vacuum brake to work well with multiple 94's. Your Puktronics still has the stock vacuum in it right?
     
    Petejoe likes this.
  5. jamesd1502
    Joined: Jul 8, 2013
    Posts: 285

    jamesd1502
    Member
    from san diego

    i would suggest buying strombergs and tunning them to the specs that your engine may need..I had the worst time synching 94's on my flathead..highly recommend strombergs!!!
     
  6. Schwanke Engines
    Joined: Jun 12, 2014
    Posts: 777

    Schwanke Engines
    Member

    Thanks for the replies, I did this dual setup because it was cheaper than the 4bbl route I was going before, so $350.00 a piece Stromberg's really aren't in the cards. But I will search on the HAMB a bit more and see what I can come up with
     
  7. Anywhere near sea level #50,#51,#52 jets are the norm.
     
    clem likes this.
  8. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 4,599

    clem
    Member

    51 jets 3&1/2 to 4&1/2 power valves will get you in the ball park.
    You could always hide EFI in the 94 carbs. ( we considered it )
     
  9. RICK R 44
    Joined: Dec 13, 2009
    Posts: 475

    RICK R 44
    Member

    Agree with alchemy, I would get rid of the lodomatic dist. Far too many mods to your engine to run the original dist. Several choices available 1- Aftermarket dist(Speedway Motors); 2- Bubbas converted Chev points dist(search Bubba on Ford Barn); 3- convert an early 1980's Chryco electronic dist.(PM me if you want more info on the Chryco conversion)
     
  10. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 6,977

    big duece
    Member
    from kansas

    x2 on bubba's chev points conversion
     
  11. flathead4d
    Joined: Oct 24, 2005
    Posts: 898

    flathead4d
    Member

    Just my opinion but the Isky Max-1 cam is pretty lame for the set up you have. Get rid of the 94's.
     
  12. I am running 94's on my 276 8BA and they do a fine job BUT you do need a different distributor. That Load-o-matic will not work properly with the cam OR multi carbs. Your stock jetting is not going to be too far off but the power valves need to be changed out to about 4.5's as a starting point.
     
    oj likes this.
  13. Schwanke Engines
    Joined: Jun 12, 2014
    Posts: 777

    Schwanke Engines
    Member

    Again thanks for all the info, think I have enough to go off for starters. Apparently I need to find a new distributor, but don't want points to deal with something reasonably priced is what I'm in the ball park for. What I do wonder is if it's the vacuum advance on the stock distributor or what the real issue is, can't I just run fixed timing?
     
  14. Schwanke Engines
    Joined: Jun 12, 2014
    Posts: 777

    Schwanke Engines
    Member

    Also on the altitude we are at 1050ft here, so if that is close enough to sea level just curious.
     
  15. There is a wealth of information available to you on The Ford Barn about flatheads and sources for parts and information. Check it out.
     
  16. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,575

    oj
    Member

    Which 94's do you have, if they are the Ford 94's then they probably have what looks like a power valve sticking out of the base. Yes or no? Advice given depends on that gizmo.
     
  17. Russco
    Joined: Nov 27, 2005
    Posts: 4,397

    Russco
    Member
    from Central IL

    As has already been said. Before you do any tuning at all, lose that Crap o Matic distributor. THEN start tuning. Set timing to 25* total for a ball park for starters. Make sure the power valves are good and it shouldn't be too far off of stock jetting
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2016
  18. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,545

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    No on the fixed timing. The extra carb 94 cuts your vacuum volume for most stock distributors and will not properly advance. Those stock distributors MUST be hooked up to the Venturi signal. Another point, the vacuum signal from an intake totally fucks them up.
    Nothing wrong with
    Points. Especially on a distributor located on the side that's easily accessible.

    Looking for something cheap and tried and true? Use Bubba's Chevy conversion with advance.
     

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