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flathead engine/driveshaft angle

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by johnnygringo, May 13, 2004.

  1. johnnygringo
    Joined: Oct 2, 2003
    Posts: 381

    johnnygringo
    Member
    from Nashville

    is there an optimal angle for the engine/driveshaft to be set?

    I have my flathead motor in and im at the point of making******* mount spacers

    48 flathead/39*******/48 rear
     
  2. johnnygringo
    Joined: Oct 2, 2003
    Posts: 381

    johnnygringo
    Member
    from Nashville

    bttt for the day shift

     
  3. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,597

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

  4. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    I have no numbers for this because my primitive motor pool consists of flatheads sitting on there original mounts and I have never had to worry about this. I believe pre-1949 engines are angled and late flatheads are level. Either level the carb pad if engine is together or just figure the angle from the manifold you are using. With a torque tube, I don't think any of the other angles are negotiable--your tube is gonna go from point A to point B, and that's that.
     
  5. In general, the you should be able to draw a straight line from the crankshaft centerline to the center of the rear end on torque tube cars. Unlike open driveline cars where there are ujoints on both ends, the closed driveline ford has only the one joint at the*******. Now this doesn't have to be exact based on experience with a my lowered torque tube cars, but it will require more maintenence if there is any angle.

    Personally, I would not set my pinion angle without my rearend mounted to get an idea of the torque tube angle.

    Hope that helps!
     
  6. johnnygringo
    Joined: Oct 2, 2003
    Posts: 381

    johnnygringo
    Member
    from Nashville

    my thinkin exactly...point a to point b cuz of no u joints

    however i can adjust the angle at the******* mount with spacers and was wondering what was best

    looks*****ed back to me?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


     
  7. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    You need to set the engine with carb flanges level.
    Is that an F-1 crossmember there? Looks like a neat setup, and probably a touch cheaper than a deuce one...
     
  8. johnnygringo
    Joined: Oct 2, 2003
    Posts: 381

    johnnygringo
    Member
    from Nashville

    yep on both counts...cheapiesrus

    many thanks and thats what i needed to hear

    and my garage aint level...critical?

     
  9. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Hey, the world isn't level either...
    An old kludge is to mark 4 tire contact points on your floor and make shims that make those 4 patches of turf level with each other. Paint the locations, number them, and number shims. Then anytime you need level, perhaps to adjust headlights, perhaps because you overfilled your coffee cup, you park the car there and insert shims for instant levelness.
     
  10. Digger_Dave
    Joined: Apr 10, 2001
    Posts: 2,516

    Digger_Dave
    Member Emeritus

    If you don't have a long spirit level, one of the new "wizz bang" lazer levels makes quick work of setting the shims. They are getting real cheap. Paid $19.00 for mine; cheaper than a 4 foot spirit level.
     

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