Flathead engine Gurus HELP with cam timing

Hi guy's, just a "heads-up", we deal with Comp Cams and they now have a small variety of cams for the Flatheads.

They are the "Thumper" series and they have a nice "throaty" sound out back!

Here are some specs:

(1) Part #41-600-7
Adv. Duration:267*/299*-.050" Duration:227*/241*-Lift:.354"/.350"

(2) Part #41-601-7
Adv. Duration:275*/307*-.050" Duration:235*/249*-Lift:.368"/.364"

(3) Part #41-602-7
Adv. Duration:283*/315*-.050" Duration:243*/257*-Lift:.382"/.378"

(Add) We've used Isky for the Flatheads for years and never had a single issue.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S They also have this line for the Buick Nailhead's, the 348's/409's, the 392" Hemi's, the Ford "Y" blocks, and the "FE" Fords!

 

Russco,
I was wondering if you would mind giving the specs that Isky sent you with the cam...perhaps a scan of the timing card?
I have been thinking of using the 1007b in a current 59AB I'm building and I can't get the same specs from any two people.
Pete, Flathead Earnie, and a few others are all different.

Also, just a thought, there are several old Isky cams beginning with 1007...there's 1007, 1007B, 1007LD. Maybe they used the wrong profile by mistake. Here's a thread with this info, might be interesting for you:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=287092&highlight=1007b&page=2

FWIW, I'm running an Isky 400JR in a 276cu 8BA with trips in a 31 Coupe and it was perfect right out of the box and still strong after 10 years.

 

I ordered a 1007B the card and box both say 1007B. There are no markings on the cam that I can find at all. Here is a scan of the card they sent with the cam. According to Pete this is a good bottom/midrange cam with rather quick ramps and a bit more lift. It should be slightly lopey sounding.
My motor is a 8BA with a 286 kit, the block was decked and running milled EAB heads on a non relieved block (I'm from the flow gained is not worth the lost compression camp) running Edmunds 2 pot intake, an old Mallory Magspark converted to HEI by Bubba, headers and straight pipes out the back.

 

35 years ago I had a Crane Roller with the intake specs ground on the exhaust & the exhaust ground on the intake. I called Crane which was in Miami then where I lived and was promptly told what a dumb *** I was and I didnt know how to check it. I took it to Crane, the guy went in the back and a half hour later he came back with a new cam and I was told they didnt have time to check it right now. I said really, it took you a half hour to figure out you didnt have time to check it ????

 

I wouldn't be nearly as pissed off as I am, if the guy at Isky just would have sounded like he gave a ****. He didnt even question it being bad or even Me not knowing how to check the profile, he just acted like he could care less either way.

 

I had the same issue with the Max 1 I fitted to my roadster. After spending nearly a month going back and forth trying everything I could think off to get it right and doubting myself it became obvious the cam was well down on spec. The duration was alot less than the spec with it opening late and closing early.
Eventuall I redrilled the cam gear and set it all to equal overlap. Runs like a trouper now.
This time around I on my new build I was looking for something along the lines of the Jr400, but thought that the Schneider 270F with the .395" lift would be a better bet.

Pete

 

The lifter bank angle of the 2 engines is different, so if you mix an early cam into a late block you will have a discrepancy, so if you checked a valve on the other side your readings would be different, your intake reading error of 7* would be different unless if it was ground with the correct index plate then your error would be 7* on both sides, then you might consider retiming your cam.

 

Thanks I appreciate your help, I have already pulled it back out now. I could put it back with 2 valves to check the other bank but, if it was ground on the earlier block index wouldn't the lobe center and closing event be equally retarded too. The correct profile would have been ground just with an incorrect starting point. This has the closing point still nearly correct only off by 1* but opening off by 10* Thanks again for your replies

 

If you want to see what the cam is ground to there is a tool called the Cam Doctor. It can read the can and print out the findings. no more questions as to its profile ect, Just thought you should know about this tool. it will tell it all.... CAM DOCTOR..

 

Get Educated ...google Cam Doctor ..or..cam Pro....

 

You mentioned the crank and cam gears being from 2 different sources...that may be the entire ptoblem ?

4TTRUK

 

Im no engine expert, but from an engineering standpoint an aluminum cam gear sounds like a bad idea. Even 7075 is not very tough.

My first cam is from comp and it was not labeled correctly. It works fine in my off topic engine, but the firing order and "free" nitriding was not what I ordered.

In my case, I came out ahead of the ball game after changing firing order, but they do get things wrong on occasion.