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Hot Rods Flathead Ford 59 heads

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by NoSurf, Aug 4, 2009.

  1. NoSurf
    Joined: Jul 26, 2002
    Posts: 4,836

    NoSurf
    Member

    Here is a 59A-6050-B head I am borrowing from 2muchstuff. It has the date 9-7-51 0n it. The remarkable thing about it is that it has a very deep relief cast in it for valve clearance. I am still having cracked head issues on my Weiand 59ab heads, so I am going to bolt this on and see what happens.

    Any ideas Mr Lancaster?

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  2. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    CC the ****er...a crude fillitup from a cough syrup cup or baby med syringe will do.
    I'm at work with no iron, but book says 59A-6050-B is 73.5--75.5 CC's
    the --A version was 77-79.
    I think many 59 engines, the ones with numbers all over the bell, were made long after 1948 for the ongoing market for engines, and the date on that head sure supports this!
     
  3. blown49
    Joined: Jul 25, 2004
    Posts: 2,212

    blown49
    Member Emeritus

    Could your Weiand heads be for an earlier block than a 59? 2 degree difference in valve angles on the left side (#6050) on earlier blocks created situation whereby the valve pockets need to be enlarged to use earlier heads on a 59 block.
     
  4. NoSurf
    Joined: Jul 26, 2002
    Posts: 4,836

    NoSurf
    Member

    I will try to cc it before I leave for the Salt Thursday.

    We relieved the heads, flycut the area above the valves, differently for each head, before I ran them.

    My problem is that the cracking in the dome above the piston on #1 may be a primary failure or secondary failure. If primary- another set of heads will be the remedy. If secondary- ie the cyl is filling with coolant when sitting and then I am hydro-ramming the head when spinning over to fire, then it could be caused by either a headgasket leak- or (wince) a cracked block...
     
  5. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    I think if the thing cracked from hydraulicking, you'd also have severe piston distortion and you'd already see odd scuffs on cylinder wall from distorted ring area and such. If running cracked, the cracked sylinder and its plug would be oddley clean and different from the rest. Toss on a head, drive it around the block, and see if plug colors up normally...then go. Thousand mile road trip is best way to ****yze a problem...
     
  6. blown49
    Joined: Jul 25, 2004
    Posts: 2,212

    blown49
    Member Emeritus

    My bad I was on the wrong side of the motor with the valve angles. Didn't realize the problem was with the #1 cylinder.

    Jim
     
  7. NoSurf
    Joined: Jul 26, 2002
    Posts: 4,836

    NoSurf
    Member

    No apology necessary my friend!

    btw- my overdrive works great...;)

    Thanks Bruce- I will try to get that head on tonight and see.
     
  8. NoSurf
    Joined: Jul 26, 2002
    Posts: 4,836

    NoSurf
    Member

    So I pulled the head last night, and the #1 intake port was full of coolant. I hope to get the intake off and pull that valve tonight and get a look in the port.
     
  9. blown49
    Joined: Jul 25, 2004
    Posts: 2,212

    blown49
    Member Emeritus

    So is this the same motor that was involved in the pole incident???

    Damage ***essment so far:

    Frame is bent (AA Ford)
    Axle bent (Magnum 4" dropped)
    Main leaf is toast
    Right spindle (47 ford) arm broke off
    Wishbone mount snapped
    Windshield smashed
    Radiator damaged
    Fan bent up.
    Right water pump motor mount broken.
    Right front tire toast.
     
  10. NoSurf
    Joined: Jul 26, 2002
    Posts: 4,836

    NoSurf
    Member

    same motor yes.
     
  11. NoSurf
    Joined: Jul 26, 2002
    Posts: 4,836

    NoSurf
    Member

    Ok. I pulled the intake off and #1 intake valve. It is hard to see in the pic- but there is a crack. Looks to me like the casting was porous in that area- and when I ported it I took off the ridge that extended into the port.

    [​IMG]

    Hard to see in the pic, but right in the middle of the frame you can see two small dark areas is where the crack is.

    My plan at this point is to auger it out some with a die-grinder and get some two-part epoxy through it into the backside in the waterjacket so it can hold.
     
  12. When we do the epoxy thing I always like to drill some small holes for the epoxy to flow though kinda like a toggle to grab ahold of. I think it helps for a stronger hold >>>>.
     
  13. hiboy32
    Joined: Nov 7, 2001
    Posts: 2,797

    hiboy32
    Member
    from Omaha, NE

    Good job on finally getting to the bottom of this.
     
  14. NoSurf
    Joined: Jul 26, 2002
    Posts: 4,836

    NoSurf
    Member

    I ground on the are with the die grinder- drilled a hole in it and epoxyed it the other night:

    [​IMG]


    now to put it back together:

    [​IMG]
     
  15. JAWS
    Joined: Jul 22, 2005
    Posts: 1,848

    JAWS
    Member

    you need a hood Jay.
     
  16. Flat Roy
    Joined: Nov 23, 2007
    Posts: 533

    Flat Roy
    Member

    What kind of epoxy did you use?
     

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