Hi Everyone! Did a search and couldn't find anything (including the new location of the old "Tech Archive"). Am building new lines for my byp*** filter and can't figure out how to plumb in the .040 restrictor fitting. Figured out that one end is for the flare nut ended feed line but the other has a short shank followed by threads that don't appear to be pipe threads and aren't large enough to screw into the block or any other br*** adapter fittings I currently have. Is there an old Weatherhead fitting that does the job? Thanks in advance for any guidance! Regards, Dave.
The size is .060 and the location depends on the unit you have. Some are at the block outlet by the oil pressure sender, and some are at the inlet to the canister. You can buy the restrictors, but I will have to look up the part number. "When using the stock flathead oil filter system, it is important to retain an oil restrictor at the inlet to the filter canister. The fittings pictured incorporate a .060” (approximately) diameter restrictor hole to prevent too much flow through the filter, particularly if the filter element is not installed (ouch!). The Eaton/Weatherhead catalog still shows a similar replacement part available under catalog number 1215. The 1951-1953 Ford engines and the 1949-1953 Mercury engines incorporated the restrictor into a “T” fitting that also mounted the oil pressure sending unit. The part numbers are 8CM-6073 for the Mercury and 1BA-6073 for the Ford ." Oil inlet restrictor for T series 1/8" NPT. Oil inlet restrictor for all T3, T3/T4, T04, T72 etc. turbos (also larger ball bearing turbos such as GT4088R, GT4094R, GT4294R, GT4202R). Restrictor diameter of .065 hole size. Installed at the oil inlet on turbo to reduce max oil pressure going into the turbo to prevent oil leakage into end housings due to excessive pressure. Input is 1/8" NPT male and output is 1/8 NPT female. Looks like most of the current restrictors are for turbo changes, but won't make any difference, a restrictor is a restrictor. I think there is one specific for the flathead filter but haven't found it yet.
Many thanks for your reply jseery! We have some good auto and industrial suppliers in town so I will hit them up with the info you have provided. Thanks again! Regards, Dave.
If you had to, you could solder up the end of a regular 1/8NPT (to whatever female fitting your needing) and drill it with a #53 or 1/16" drill.
Stopped in to one of our local industrial suppliers and picked up one with an .060 hole that resembled the two in the bottom photo in jseery's response. Had to sandwich it between the block fitting and a flare nut fitting but it fits just fine with the top end of the line plumbed into the cannister. Thanks again to all who responded - The HAMB ROCKS!!! Now it's on to the drain line and removing the threaded plug from the side of the block! Regards, Dave.
Well here is my answer to that problem: plug all of the holes to and from the filter. Remove filter and have it chromed. Shorten a number of hand tools, short enough to fit into your new handy under hood tool box!
The filter was of some use "back in the day" Roads were dusty and oil wasn't as good. Now days it's just a source for leaks...serves absolutely no purpose. Sooo make an under hood TB. Just saying...
I found the site you got the information from. After about an hour of searching I finally realized the part number was wrong. It is suppose to be 1512.
I disagree with this. Byp*** filters can remove particles that full flow filters won't. Most large trucks use both a full flow and a byp*** filter to keep the oil as clean as possible, and look at the mileage those rigs pile up. Given the conditions most flatheads are driven under today, I would even venture to say that the existing filter is superior to a full flow setup. These cars are driven in super clean conditions and have regular short maintenance intervals. If you have leaks, something is wrong; these are no more likely to leak than a full flow filter. The only downside I see with them is cleaning out the canister when changing cartridges. Then again, after having had several contemporary cars where the filters weren't mounted completely vertical, it's a problem I will put up with.
Many of the bad results seen in early oiling systems...sludge, corrosion of engine parts, and more sludge are in my opinion due to lack of a PCV system AND often people leaving out the thermostats to compound the troubles caused by combustion water and gases. Ford built some flatheads with PCV and full flow filters (and even coolers) during WWII, and I think many manufacturers used PCV for commercial and stationary engines long before they were mandated for emissions purposes. The inconvenience of canister filters has also trumped efficiency in some cases. Chevy on the SBC dropped a canister arrangement around 1968 to go to a modern filter with both less flow and co****r filtering. Tellingly, they kept the old filters on trucks, taxis, and police cars, and racers could use the adapter from those to put the better but more difficult filter on late blocks. And a system keeping the byp*** while adding a full-flow would be an easy system to use on a flathead.
http://abqfordflatheadv8.com/new-page-1/ This is the website but they actually had it listed wrong there also. This looks like the same info. the other guy was sharing.
Howdy from Buda..Anyone in the Central Texas area have an idea of where to obtain the oil restrictor fitting? 1512
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