BandS...I have been a mechanic my whole life, my dad was a mechanic and I came from a hot rod family and grew up doing this stuff. I have always been intrigued by anything mechanical and been known to tear something apart just to understand how it works. This would probably explain why I choose to build my own cars, engines, trannys and all. Its in my blood and its what I like to do. Lets face it, a vast majority of car guys are into this as a "hobby" and no part of rodding plays into their professional careers. Though I am no longer a professional mechanic (I spent the 70s/early 80s as a journeyman diesel mechanic), I still have an ingrained love of this stuff and is now just a hobby for me. I've always wanted a V8 flathead in a hotrod because to me it personifies what a traditional style hotrod would have, which is why I went with the hopped up banger in the first place. So, I am building this engine and tranny set up to swap into my Tudor as a project when I retire in about 15 months. It may sound like I'm bitching about it but I'm not...I LOVE this stuff. Luckily I have a very understanding wife as it keeps me home on the weekends and keeps me from blowing my paychecks at the bars on Friday nights. Many thanks to everyone on the HAMB for the support and help...invaluable. You guys are the best.
Got another question I checked my main bearings for any hint of resized crank. Looked in oil groove and nothing there and only marks I can find is on back of bearing shell .......Ford (script) USA-T G2 does anyone have any idea if these markings mean anything Ron
I don't know if those marks mean anything. I didn't notice any special markings on my bearings for undersized crank, but I also have multiple brands. Do you not have a way to just measure the journals on the crank?
Yeah...I can pull the crank back out, no problem. When I set my crank in yesterday and checked the endplay, I have about 0.035... I checked Tardells book and he says up to 0.015. I pulled the rear main cap back off and miced the thrust flanges on the bearing shell and have 0.064 on one side 0.069 on the other side. Ive been trying to find out what the stock bearing flanges mic out at....if Ive done my math right it should be about 0.078 on each side, which would tighten up my endplay to just about right. So before I order bearings Im trying to determine if these are stock or undersized. If I just catch the edge of the bearing shell it mics out at 0.090....wishing I could find the specs on these bearings Ron
Oh, I see. I misunderstood what you meant by undersized. I have two rear main bearings, I just went out and measured the flanges, and you're right, about .078 on each side.
Cretin...can you mic just the edge of the shell and let me know what it reads and if it is std or undersized Thanks
I only have a cheap caliper at home with me right now, but here is what I have. I have a standard set where I'm getting about .080 And a .020 under set where I'm getting about .090
Well that tells me something...looks like I may be 0.020 under. May be what the G2 means. As best I can mic my crank without removing it is 2.386. which should be close considering the shaft centerline should be right at the cap/block joint. Thanks for the help....enlightening....if you ever get up Fresno way...look me up, I owe you a lunch.
Well, that's interesting. When I removed my crank and measured it, that's exactly what mine measured out to, making it a .013 difference from the stock 2.399. So I had my crank ground to .020 under which is 2.379. And just for reference, my standard bearing has A2 stamped on it, and my .020 under has U2. Don't owe me anything, glad to help. Paying it forward from all the people who have helped me out!
Yeah...a call to a local builder may have partially answered this for me....looks like my crank is probably ground 0.010
Just an FYI, if you're going to .020 under, the bearings aren't plentiful, and they also aren't cheap. I can give you the info on where I got mine if you need it. Also, don't make the same mistake I did, and not have your mains checked if they need a line bore. I've gotta take my block back to the machine shop now instead of getting it all assembled because I skipped it.
I haven't got any experience with the sixes, but parts for them are plentiful and reasonably priced. I saw s NOS block for one a while back for $600.
I hope you enjoy your flathead build! I did. The one I am driving now was my first flathead build. It is approaching 1500 miles now and seems to be running OK. I had a couple of books to guide me and learned a lot from fellow HAMBers. Although the engine is running well once it is warmed up a little the lifters make some noise when cold. I suppose I will have to do a dreaded valve adjustment with the engine in the car some time soon.
Oh no. I put all mine in the paper shredder when I got to $2000 and haven't saved an engine slip again.
If you stopped saving at $2000 on a flathead, you must have shredded a lot of receipts! As they say "It's the most money you'll ever spend to go that slow"! Somewhere in the neighborhood of 9K. My father in laws. How else are you going to spend your 401K? I stopped trying to keep him on budget when he wanted the new 97's...in chrome. Six bills apiece. I could build a SBC for that! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Wow what a beauty. Chromaholic for sure. I'd hate to run that engine everyday and have to clean it. 600 each?? Omg.
Ron- Don't let my numbers scare you. You can do it for much less. My father in law took the governor off his wallet with his build. Was looking at your profile. Are you out of 246? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
All right youse guys, I have a 258 incher in the works as we speak. By scrounging and taking advantage of such things as Speedway (especially their garage sale section a couple of years ago), I am almost done for less than $2000. This includes new pistons, bearings, oil pump, an Isky Max-1 I found and some used speed equipment (Edmunds heads, an Offy super dual, and an old Mallory "flattop"). I'm saving all of my receipts so I'll know exactly what I have in it when I'm done. It's taking a while because I'm getting a break on machining because it is a "fill-in" job, but it should be done by fall.
246? not sure what you mean. Im from Fresno Ca Ive got most everything i need to finish my motor already have the dual 97s and im into this engine around $1800. i am mot running finned heads . i like the looks of the engine painted with chrome attachments
Your profile said pipefitter. Thought you might be out of Local 246. I was on the refrigeration side until recently. If you're into it $1800 your doing pretty good. My father in law lost all control with his. Any sane person could do it for MUCH less. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Not exactly. I think I know which RPU you're talking about. It's a nice build. Ours is still under construction but getting close. 28 years with 246. Gave it and all the company BS up to go to work for one of my former customers. I don't kick the dog when I walk in the front door anymore. Best move I ever made although not an easy decision. Tough to let go. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I guess I got lucky...real lucky. I too am a flathead newbie. Bought mine of unknown providence from Craigslist. Picture showed it upside down on an engine stand with oil pan off and cross hatching still CLEARLY visible in the cylinder bores from honing. Went to see it about 2 hour drive away. The heads were still on it, owner knew NOTHING about it. Widow of previous owner gave it to him with the stand and it then sat in his garage for four years doing nothing except getting in his way. He turned it over every now and then to make sure it wasn't stuck but that's it. He was asking $700.00 I offered him $400.00 and he took it. I loaded it into my truck cursing myself for buying a $400.00 anchor. Got it home and pulled the intake and heads (he also threw in the engine stand). Clean as a whistle, pistons stamped .030, no ridge...I mean ZERO ridge. Obviously a low mileage rebuild. Sat in my garage for a while as I worked on my build. Vacuumed/blew out/brushed out the mouse nests from the water passages (took four hours). Found some nearly unused vintage Edelbrock heads at Hershey for $260.00. Gave the engine and the heads and the intake (Hershey at $180.00) I bought to my flathead guru and said, "Please make this thing run for me. I'm too scared I'm going to screw it up". That cost $1600.00. Total investment...less than $2500.00. Engine runs like a sumbitch. No smoke at all. Compression in all eight within 5 lbs. of 150lbs. I guess I'm lucky. Andy
Yeah, I realized that after I looked closer, The one I was thinking of is dual carbed on Eddie Meyer shotgun manifold. I will finally be retiring Nov next year. I did spend 15 years building custom Harleys in my garage after work, but gave it up after spending more time working and sleeping and not enough having fun.
Maybe I'll retire when I finally finish this beast. It's been in my garage for going on 5 years. Started as a simple- lets do a motor/tranny swap. Worlds largest can 'o worms opened. And with 110 deg heat I'm less than enthusiastic about working on it. Don't remember if you said what your motor was going in? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
At least you remembered to drill the holes in the lifter bores. Nothing like assembling the entire engine then getting ready to adjust the valves and then realize you will be having to do it the extremely inefficient way, or tear everything apart again. However, it was still on the stand so that was nice.
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