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Flathead question?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by RDP, Oct 24, 2012.

  1. RDP
    Joined: Dec 3, 2010
    Posts: 242

    RDP
    Member
    from Kansas

    Ok, here is the deal. I am looking at buying a '38 Ford truck frame with the front end, motor and trans. Is this a good motor for a rebuild or is it a less desireable motor. I have absolutely NO knowledge on flatheads. Any input would be welcomed.
     
  2. 296 V8
    Joined: Sep 17, 2003
    Posts: 4,666

    296 V8
    BANNED
    from Nor~Cal

    Need more info ..... The V8 went threw 6 major design changes 32 to 54
     
  3. RDP
    Joined: Dec 3, 2010
    Posts: 242

    RDP
    Member
    from Kansas

    I will when I get my hands on it.
     
  4. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,855

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    Some people have their preferences, but any flathead is a good flathead if it is structurally sound.
     
  5. banjorear
    Joined: Jul 30, 2004
    Posts: 4,711

    banjorear
    Member

    Yep. All things being equal, a 21 stud (which is what your '38 should have in it I believe) is viewed by some as a notch below a 24 stud motor. More so because that can be a little harder to find things such a finned heads for and are smaller in c.i. Some of these blocks also can't be bored out as far as a 24 stud motor.

    But, like others have said, if it runs well you got yourself a good 'un.
     
  6. slobroy
    Joined: Jun 22, 2009
    Posts: 360

    slobroy
    Member

    The 24 stud motor is often the more desirable than the 21 stud. I'd say more parts are available.
     
  7. slobroy
    Joined: Jun 22, 2009
    Posts: 360

    slobroy
    Member

    Banjorear beat me to it.
     
  8. How many studs? Several were available in '38 as it was a transition year. 17 studs forget it. 21 studs it would be a good choice for someone restoring a '32-'38 vehicle as all of the bolt on parts will fit. Speed equipment is scarce and expensive. 24 studs is probably the best. After you get 24 studs there a couple of things that would make it even more desirable if you are going for max HP. If you will take a little less HP any 24 stud is good in my opinion. What letters are cast into the flywheel housing at the back of the block and how many studs?

    Charlie Stephens
     
  9. 1952henry
    Joined: Jan 8, 2006
    Posts: 1,516

    1952henry
    Member

    As has been hinted at, do some research to find out which engine you have. Over the years the engine could have been switched for a newer one, perhaps even an 8BA.

    One of my uncles has a '42 Ford sedan with a transplanted V8-60 in it. Times were tough and he made do. My father ran across an otherwise stock 36 Ford pickup in an old farmyard with an 8BA. Point is, ya never know.
     
  10. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Nothing to discuss here as engine could be any kind or year...wait til you can post a BUNCH of pictures, not just of whole motor but of sides, top, front, etc. and we can ID it.
     
  11. RDP
    Joined: Dec 3, 2010
    Posts: 242

    RDP
    Member
    from Kansas

    I am going to pick it up on Friday so I will take some pics and find the numbers to go along.
     
  12. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Best package of pics: top of block shot beside manifold, top of bellhousing, sides of block, front shot looking down toward distributor.
    But if block has "59" cast on top of bell no further ID would really be necessary unless you want to figgerout origins of all the bolt on parts.
     
  13. 40FordGuy
    Joined: Mar 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,907

    40FordGuy
    Member

    Send some good shots of the engine.....So we can see the heads and front clearly. If it's a 21 stud, you can sell it to a restorer,...and pick up either a good 59A or an 8BA.

    4TTRUK
     
  14. Well this is just opinion here so you should look at it as such. The absolute best engine is the one that you have or can afford. Any of them can be made dependable or as dependable as any other engine of the same design and any of them can be souped up if you are willing to learn how.
     
  15. Corn coupe
    Joined: Jan 7, 2008
    Posts: 356

    Corn coupe
    Member
    from CZ

    21 studs are fine, I'm in my third year of running one in my Model A. I've done getting on for 20,000 miles with it.

    Gearing is a thing to consider, I can cruise at 65 MPH and get 22 mpg on a long trip - furthest we've been so far is the Czech Republic is 2010, and France this year (We're based in England).

    I was running a 4 banger (Stock Model A with high comp head and twin updraft carbs) before, so for me the 21 stub proved to be a big step up.
     
  16. RDP
    Joined: Dec 3, 2010
    Posts: 242

    RDP
    Member
    from Kansas

    The only numbers I see on the back of the block 3/0 A, I will get some pics this weekend.
     
  17. scrubba
    Joined: Jul 20, 2010
    Posts: 939

    scrubba
    Member

    Personally, I prefer the 8- CM and 8 BA blocks on account of the distributor being more accessible , the 24 bolt heads , and overall a more proven block . scrubba
     
    Matt Miller likes this.

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