Flathead Question

I have a quick question that I am hoping you guys may be able to answer for me. I am building a 26/27 Model T Coupe and have access to a 1951 Ford Flathead that I am thinking about using. The gentleman that is selling it has stated the quote below:

"There is a small crack between one of the head bolts and a water port. This is a common and fixable crack most flattys get."

Is this an easy, affordable fix? If so, what kind of money are we talking to fix it? The motor is sold complete, carb to oil pan, and this appears to be the only issue.

I just wanted to know if I should run from this repair or, invest a few bucks into it to have a nostalgic flathead for my car.

Thanks

 

No, it's not an "easy fix", here's a good description of the process:

http://www.reds-headers.com/html/red_s_engine_talk_29.html

I'd run from it, and find a crack-free block.

 

everything on a flathead is "easy" to fix. if price is real cheap might be able to use/sell parts off of it.

 

Deck cracks between stud holes and water holes are common and are generally harmless.
Cracks involving valve seats are difficult, freeze cracks are getting into the fatal area and of course may signal more cracks in places that cannot be seen even by magnaflux...
If this is just one of those short cracks between a head fastener hole, generally found between the end pairs, and not going anywhere near a chamber, it may be ignored except for a dab of thread sealer, and it is quite likely part of the engine for a lot of miles previously...

 

If it is bothering you it is relatively easy to fix. As above this is a common flattie issue. One way is a thin wall threaded insert. On my current flattie I just sealed the studs with avaition grade Permatex and forgot about it. Head bolts are a different story. Without the insert (not Heli-coil) it will continue to leak. g

 

Nonsense.

 

flatjack: which part?

 

That crack has a Ford part number! Seriously, I have never seen a flattie without a few cracks like that. They don't seem to affect the engine at all.

 

This is the beauty of the internet.

The responses vary from it is fine as is to the block should be s****ped. Someone must be correct.

I am in the group that says the block with a crack from the bolt hole to a water p***age is o.k. and I would not fix it.

I am ready for the next question. Let us see if we can answer it with the same clarity.

Neal

 

Same here. I'd be su****ious if this was the first crack ever discovered between head stud and coolant hole, but considering there's decades of experience that shows those cracks are not fatal, go with it.

Bob

 

If the motor is fairly nice a a possible runner, why not bolt on some heads with gaskets and give it a static pressure check. Though crack can change with heat. If it doesn't leak throw in some sealer for insurance and run it. You can hunt for the magical crack free block for years.

 

The part about needing to put an insert in to stop a potemtial leak.

 

The "standard" crack is between two holes and neatly self terminated. Spend your time scrutinizing valve areas and the lower areas of water jacket. Skip this block for your quad-turbo 10,000 RPM Bonneville effort.

 

But where is it going to leak? The head gasket will cover the crack.

Neal