So I did a couple searches but didn’t find the info about my particular situation, or one that was close. I am in the middle of tear down on my 8ba flathead and not sure what direction I want to go. What I had planned on doing is using as much as I can that was stock from the engine, maybe an aftermarket hop-up cam , headers and a plate style super charger if I could dig one up and cheap. On tear down I had to bust two pistons and looking at the others a couple where pitted. So at this point I have a clean block to do anything with. I don’t have any numbers in my head for horse power, but what I want in the end for any direction chosen is reliability, I want to be able to just jump in my car and go whenever, ride in it all day or take it on trips i don't plan on going cross country, i live in CT, the farthest i would drive is Burlington VT and central NJ. What cam, pistons ect will be the best set up for what I want? I like the idea of running the plate style super charger, is there a cam I will need to run a blower to full advantage? Will I be able to run that same cam if the engine stays N/A if it takes me awhile to get a super charger? I would like to have more horse power then stock more of passing power, freeway cruising then drag racing, or having a rocket car.
You'll get a lot of opinions, here's mine. Bore + 0.125" over Stroke 4.00" Builds a 276" engine - very good baseline for any street flathead. If you don't have a 4" crank, don't sweat it. Pistons - have heard good & bad about speedway/Egge, but only good about Ross. Ross are forged and more expensive, but if you think you're going to put a blower on it, step up now while it's apart. Rods - stock rods are more than adequate - polish the beams if it makes you feel better, or buy brand new from SFFlatheads. Aftermarket rods are overkill for anything other than all-out racing engines (or strokers where you need/want different journal sizes). Cam - I'd go with the 400Jr, because it's readily available and proven. You'll get lots of advice here. Ignition - MSD all the way. If you put the blower on, get a BTM to pull timing out with boost. Heads - If you want the looks, pick any aftermarket head you like - there's not enough difference in most of them to warrant hunting anything specific. Otherwise, I'd find a set of late EAB iron heads and bolt 'em on. Induction - A single 4bbl is honestly the best way forward for power, but doesn't look very good usually. Tripower will make the most top-end power and runs well enough on the street with progressive linkage. 2x2 is probably simpler to set up and get running well for a street engine though. Headers - not enough difference in the various types/brands to justify anything specific - get what will fit your car. Search some more. This has been covered in the past. Check the tech archives too - lots of good info hidden in there.
We just delivered a "Flattie" this weekend after a 1/2 day of dyno testing. Fairly straight-forward build with many of the best parts available! Ross (3.312") pistons, Ross rings (1.5,1.5,3.0 file-fits), Scat (7.000") rods (much to easier to install over the Eagles), CB610P Pontiac/Buick bearings, Eagle (4.250)crank, Edelbrock 1116 (new large chamber) heads, and an Isky "800" cam. The heads also received a "spark plug fire-slot/enlarged valve pocket" treatment. Compression ratio in at 8.3, made 154 HP @4300 and 251 Ft.Lbs Torque @ 2200. Ran fine on "pump". Stock valve sizes and NO porting!! We chose the Fel-Pro "copper" large-bore gaskets, and Edelbrock/Weber single 4 brl carb! We had recently fabricated a newer block-plate for boring & honing along with the ability to be able to dowel-pin the Aluminum heads to the block! The block plate is also used to "dowel" the head gaskets during the entire operation. This pinning procedure keeps the heads very "stable" and prolongs gasket life! (Add) I could actually put you in touch with the customer here on Long Island, they are doing the installation in his '50 Merc convertible as I type!! Thanks, Gary in N.Y. P.S. I would only recommend the "blower" if you've some pre-existing experience with them?? They do make power, we've done B&M's over the years!
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