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Technical flathead water pumps

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by gdrummer, Aug 16, 2024.

  1. gdrummer
    Joined: Jul 9, 2018
    Posts: 268

    gdrummer

    hi ya'll,
    so im replacing the water pumps on my 37 panel which has a 59AB flathead. i have a set of new pumps from a 8BA truck engine and from what i have read, it seems they are interchangeable. is that correct?
    also, i'll need new gaskets. it seems like the gaskets are the same too. is that also true?
    thanks!
     
  2. JohnLewis
    Joined: Feb 19, 2023
    Posts: 655

    JohnLewis
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Mounting should be the same. I think the only difference is pulley and snout sizing can be different. Your new pumps might have a extra coolant bypass hole. Someone more experienced might correct me.
     
  3. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,145

    V8 Bob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You're better off using new correct '38-'48 pumps, or have your take-offs rebuilt by Skip Haney in Fla.
     
    sidevalve8ba and warbird1 like this.
  4. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,570

    alchemy
    Member

    Nope. Different mounting surface with extra port on top, different offset of pulleys, and mount legs are slightly higher I think. Just get the right pumps. You could even get repros with a more modern bearing instead of the bushing, if you want.
     
    Tow Truck Tom, warbird1 and JohnLewis like this.
  5. gdrummer
    Joined: Jul 9, 2018
    Posts: 268

    gdrummer

    ok thanks.
    so the issue is that a bought the panel with a 59AB that was a runner but not for about 6 years. all indications is that this was a pretty fresh or at least, a well taken care of motor. when i started it, it was squealing very loudly so i removed the belt and turns out the water pumps were stuck. i was able to break them free but i thought i had a replacement set and would just change them. well now it seems i don't have a set so can i just remove the old stuck ones and work them free or just buy new ones and be done with it?
    thanks
     
  6. 51504bat
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 5,570

    51504bat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Buy new pumps. Don't forget the bolt inside the water outlet. When you reinstall the pumps use a stainless bolt with anti seize for the bolt inside the water outlet.
     
  7. gdrummer
    Joined: Jul 9, 2018
    Posts: 268

    gdrummer

    ok thanks,
    good advice!
     
  8. You will need the correct year pumps, the later pulleys are pushed outwards 1.5" in order for the belt clear the late distributor and there is an additional water port in the pump body that your block won't have.
     
  9. Toms Dogs
    Joined: Dec 16, 2005
    Posts: 998

    Toms Dogs
    Member
    from NJ

  10. gdrummer
    Joined: Jul 9, 2018
    Posts: 268

    gdrummer

    ok thanks nick but, how do i date the engine? i was under the impression that its really difficult to date these engines. was that correct?
     
  11. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 8,085

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You can date it within a few years just by the block type. After over 75 years, I would think that is close enough. Ford had a system of numbering blocks in those days. Essentially, the first digit of the type is the last digit of the year the engine was introduced, while the second digit is the last digit of the displacement. Thus :

    81A - 1938, 221 ci
    91A - 1939, 221 ci
    99A - 1939, 239 ci
    21A - 1942, 221 ci
    etc.
    59A - 1945 - 239 ci

    Later flatheads (8BA series) had assembly dates stamped into the intake manifold surface on the right rear of the block. It is a rather arcane method, but can be decoded if you have the "secret code".:D
     

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