Trying to get a 40 ford flathead to fire. Cranks but no fire. Most of the time i am told most likely the condenser. Could also be coil or points, i am trying to see what you all think from past experiences. Car has sat for quite some time but surprised me when it cranked with the stater ****on and also noticed all the gauges moved when i flipped the ignition switch on. Thoughts please on most likely culprit
corrosion on the points is the most likely culprit, followed by a bad condenser. coils rarely go bad but a swap with a good one is a quick test. Always clean all wiring connections, and grounds
These kinds of jobs tend to go more smoothly with some informed troubleshooting. A quick cranking compression test would be a good place to start. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/hot-rod-technical-library-basic-ignition-systems.983424/ This link may save you some time, money and frustration. Happy hunting!
Do you have a voltmeter? You can connect it to the distributor side of the coil and bump the engine over a few times. At some point you should have battery voltage at the distributor side when the points are open. When you bump the engine, the voltage should go to zero, or close, when the points close. If it always stays near battery voltage, the points are either corroded or not moving. If it always stays near zero, either the points are stuck closed or the primary wire is shorted to ground.
Trying to fix an issue by sorting by most likely is a flat rate way to get it fixed quickly and make money. I'd suggest that awakening a vintage car is not flat rate, it's carefully inspecting all components of a sub system and confirming everything. While you are under the hood with the ignition on trying to get spark, you could have a corroded connection under the dash overheating. That said points, poor connections and then condenser would be the quick route.
Popping the side caps off a 40 distributor is sometimes hard when it’s in the car. Might be easier to take the plug conduits and wires off with the distributor and lay them on the bench. Or, pop take the coil off and maybe can gingerly get a rod inside to tap them out of the distributor housing. Either way, it’s much simpler to give the points a gentle filing and check their gap when it’s sitting on a workbench. Can also check the tips of the rotor and cap terminals. Make sure the advance is still working and the vacuum brake has a leather pad on it still.
Thanks guys. its been at least 50 years since i worked on flatheads. The only one i had was a 47 ford when i was 19. *81 now so i tend to forget stuff. Got 6 volts at the coil, so im going to do what JA racer said to try.
Pulled the distributer, cleaned points, ordered a condenser from Old Ford store in Springfield Ohio. Those guys are awesome. Never fail me.
Did you put some oil in each cylinder so you will have some compression? Pull the plugs add a little oil in each cylinder crank it over several time to get oil on the walls and rings working. Replace plugs add some gas and a shot of starting fluid and give it a try.
yup, all the above, with marvel and trans fluid. Turns nice with no hard spots or hangups. So when i get the condenser it should light off.
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