Technical Floor mount pedals

Should some kind of return spring be used on the brake and clutch pedals. I was thinking the weight of the pedal arms will always be slightly pushing against the master cylinders. Would this matter at all or am I just over thinking it?

 

Yes, you definitely need to add a return spring. HRP

 

Yes,return springs and a stop. Light spring.
First time I built my own pedels,I did swings an those too needed springs.
The next sets were floor. I liked the feel of floor better,but it really depens on design n fit.
The very last set I did,for floor unit,was kind of a self cont. box afare. I'll try to find a pic an add later.
OK,found pic.;
Home made as a unit,so I could mount as needed. The clutch is mec.

 

If the master cylinder for the brakes is below the wheel cylinders or the bleeder screws on disc brakes, you need to install residual valves in the brake lines close to the master cylinder. They hold pressure in the lines and keep the master cylinder from leaking fluid due to gravity. Without the valves holding pressure you have to pump the brakes a lot. That gets old too as well as not being safe.
I think they come 5lbs. For discs, and 10lbs for drums?

 

I was driving my Model A and used the brakes, it didn't feel like the pedal came all the way back up. So I pulled it back up with my toe. There was no stop to limit the pedal from coming up to far. Yep, I pulled the rod right out of the master. Instant HOLY **** moment!!! Put some kind of stop to limit upward travel on the pedal.

 

I didn't want external springs mucking up my tidy undersides so I incorporated springs on the M/C rods to push the pedals back. Here is the clutch pedal installed and the spring. The pedals have stops at the top near the firewall to prevent over travel and any chance of them making hard contact with the firewall. This was a kit I picked up possible from Pete and Jakes. It works very well.

 

I hear this often. I call it good Sales talk on the Venders side. I call it B.S. and have for more than 40 years. For fluid to drain out of wheel cyl's you have to get air into them. If air can get into them then you will also have a LEAK while bleeding them. You also have to have a place for the fluid to go to. Ever see it run out of the Master? Do you know that there is already a residual bladder in a new Master cyl? Why would you need 2 of them in one line? Go ahead and don't believe me but take your master cyl and look at the port for the lines. See that Br*** insert, screw in a sheet metal screw into the 1/8" hole and pull the br*** seat out. Now tell me what you find behind it.

 

@Bandit Billy I've seen some race cars with threaded push rods with a star nut for adjusting tension on the spring between the nut and the master. Clever packaging I like how you did yours

 

I know for a fact that fluid will leak out from under the rubber gasket under the lid. Not from the lines. You only need one per line.

 

If the mc lid leaks fluid , you have a problem at the mc .

 

i agree with pistonbroke. lots of old wives tales on internet. Makes a good sales pitch for vendors.

 

Worst thing you can do when you don't know what you need is to ask a sales person what products he has that will do the job. Second Worst thing is to ask someone that has never successfully cured that same exact problem how to. #3 has to be to just keep buying parts your told you should have bought instead of what you did buy.