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Flow forming aluminum

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by elwood blues, Aug 19, 2009.

  1. elwood blues
    Joined: Sep 13, 2005
    Posts: 462

    elwood blues
    Member

    I am playing around with the idea of starting to work aluminum on a custom motorcycle build and eventualy if this works a hot rod project that I have waiting in the wings. I came across this guy in the prosses of finding out methods of working metal and here is what I found
    <object height="344" width="425">


    <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/9K6c3_DMXjQ&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" height="344" width="425"></object>

    I am trying to build a gas tank and a cafe tail for a 1971 norton camando 750 that a guy dropped off at my shop to build a "cl***ic cafe racer". My question is could I scale this up to build a tank and tail? My plan is to build the bucks out of foam then make a relief mold (female) out of concrete then make a cutout out of steel plate and clamp the cutout over the aluminum sheet and mold. Them go to town! I have no clue if this will work but I'm bet if it dose this will be of value to my fellow hambers. BTW I know I'm useing this method for a bike but some of the best metal work that I have ever seen has been found here and pounding metal is pounding metal:D
     
  2. Unkl Ian
    Joined: Mar 29, 2001
    Posts: 13,504

    Unkl Ian

    Definitely possible, depends on how much stretching your shape will require,
    and if the metal will stretch that far without getting too thin.
     
  3. Unkl Ian
    Joined: Mar 29, 2001
    Posts: 13,504

    Unkl Ian

    Use Delrin for the working ends of the tools, machines nice, stands up pretty decent.
     
  4. lowsquire
    Joined: Feb 21, 2002
    Posts: 2,567

    lowsquire
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    I like that . hes an engaging old guy..

    The principle is really simple, and it obviously works . I think it would be perfect for forming tank halves. I really need to get a rivet gun.
     
  5. Shifty Shifterton
    Joined: Oct 1, 2006
    Posts: 4,964

    Shifty Shifterton
    Member

    Interesting. The hammer tip looks a lot like those replacement heads for plastic headed hammers.

    I do think he under-emphasizes how much labor is in making a smooth die.

    great link, thanks for sharing
     
  6. 61TBird
    Joined: Mar 16, 2008
    Posts: 2,641

    61TBird
    Member

    So easy anyone can do it.....

    Thanks for posting that!
    Like he stated in the video,if you're going to make a lot of "repeatable" parts...
    I could see investing in the dies and making different parts as a side business.
    I went to his site and it's $385 for the set.
    https://www.tinmantech.com/html/flow_forming_set.php

    Now if I could only convince the Wife........
     
  7. K13
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,866

    K13
    Member

    The concrete would have to be super smooth or every little rough spot would show up in your finished piece.
     
  8. HOTTRODZZ
    Joined: Aug 21, 2006
    Posts: 335

    HOTTRODZZ
    Member

    Elwood - it will work.

    The question will be ( do you really need to make your tank halve's out of one peice ) - or fit smaller bits together & weld em.

    Epoxy - fibergl*** shreads in bondo - concrete all will work.

    The effort you put into the form & finish of the form or mold will show in your parts.

    The ( Tin Man ) is a very sharp guy with a HUGE AMOUNT of experiance - most all of his vids have tons of info & tricks in them.
     
  9. elwood blues
    Joined: Sep 13, 2005
    Posts: 462

    elwood blues
    Member

    I was thinking to smooth out the concrete I could sprey in a few layers or epoxy resin and afer it set up well I would sand it smooth and add a few layers of wax. My alternative would be to cut up a few of my inner tubes and glue them to the inside of the mold. I am iffy on how they would hold up. If any one has any sugestions I'm game to try anything that works;)
     

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