Having to replace the flywheel on my sbc in the sedan. Got a new flywheel and want to make sure i install it correctly. There is a small lip around the center holes (that goes over the crank) and the center is offset as are the mounting pads where the converter bolts to the flywheel. The GM parts guy said to install it with the center lip towards the converter and the convertor mounting pads on the flywheel protuding out (towards converter). This would make the flywheel sit closer to the block. I have an old flywheel that came off another motor and it looks like it was installed the opposite way (the pads the converter sit on are indented I had the current one (which I tore up) installed as GM recommend but now I am wondering as i do not want to have to yank the ****** again in the future. (part of my problem was an incorrectly shimmed started) Help, what is the correct method.
You mean flexplate right? The second is correct(not all GM parts guys know their ****).....it should offset towards engine.....IE....if you mount it with the 'ears' out towards the converter, the ears will bend back when bolted up....not good. *Reread your dilema.......GM guy sounds right.....I misunderstood your explaination....
you mean a flexplate for automatic, right? just givin ya ****. the sharp "lip" or bevel or whatever in the center points to the trans. put white paint on the teeth, then you can see the engagement and shim it before it gets tore up. aftermarket starters are often TOO thick, and need to be filed to get closer instead of shimmed further away. Once you find a nosecone that is worth a **** (oem iron) keep it! the chinese aluminum ones ****. its the #1 problem I have with sbc's. depending on what converter you are using there are usually 2 sets of holes in the generic replacement flexplates.
GM parts guy is correct.. center lip @ crank flange and pads @ tq bolts face out towards the trans.. if you get it backwards you wil get several problems.. 1st you will never get the fly/flexplate to set straight on the crank because the center lip keeps it from setting down flat. 2nd , if you do manage to get it tightend down backwards you will have a major pain getting it back off of the crank because the lip distorts and binds onto the crank. 3rd, some ******s are very sensitive to tq conv. depth into the pump and with the flex plate backwards it will pull the convertor forward almost 1/2". don't ask how i know this ...... and the starter advice is golden..my 2c. is also remember to re-use the bolt on brace..if you dont have it, go to the wreckers and get one..30+ years behind the parts counter for my day job...can't count how many "defective" starters that got cured by installing a brace.. good luck dave
the lip at the center goes out (towards the transmission), the pads go towards the converter. I've seen them put on backwards, it's not a pretty sight....
The brace is still available from GM, & aftermarket as well, if you can't find one in the boneyard. One of the better uses for $10 you'll find....
Ok, now I am not sure as I called Summit and there description was different. Here is what I think is the torque converter side.
thanks everyone, it looks like I had it installed correctly the first time and the replacement used plate I got from a buddy was installed wrong.. I had started to install the new one wrong and noticed it was not fitting like it should.. pain to get back off, but its going on as I had my old one. I should not have double quessed myself..
I've had a lot of starter probs on my chevy too. What helped me the most with shimming the thing was to leave the starter silinoid off the starter when bolting it up to the block. If room allows, you can lay under the car & manually engage the starter gear to the flywheel to see the teeth engage. Then using a tire iron to turn the flywheel to see the teeth moving in & out of each other. Then put the silinoid back on. Carl Hagan
The Jalopy Journal
