Ford’s 2.0/2.3/2.5 litre engine family guide

Burton in the UK sells a aluminum cover for the 2L Pinto, but its not finned.

 

Correction. it does have some fins.

They sell two types.

 

Yeah i kno those, Burton has some great stuff for Fords.
but as nice as they are thyre too "race car" for my current project...i have 205 block 2.0 liter waitin for that treatment in the shop thou, but it will be a couple years b4 i start on it.

 

Yeah, you are right.

They do not really fit the style of your car.

I'll P/M you if I see or hear of a cover that would suit it better.

 

not sure of the make of this one on my 33, but all the goodies were put on in the 70's. it has a finned M/T front cover also so maybe thats what brand it is,

 

Mickey Thompson (M/T) used to make the finned valve, and front cover you have for the Pinto/Capri 2.0 EAO engine, (M/T did not make them for the 2.3).

 

Thanx, i really appreciate it.

 

I went to the Turkey Night races at Irwindale last weekend and saw a lot of midgets with Esslinger Ford motors. Rumors were of 400 hp. Wow. Gary

 

Well, here goes the tech on getting a Holley 4412 to work on the ford.
I don't know how to put a description on a picture, so this will be lengthy:
The first modification is to the power valve circuit, it is sized for a V8 engine and will everwhelm the 4cyl. The first pic is drilling & tapping the power valve supply hole to a 4-40 thread; i then screw in a brass restrictor drilled to .028. I limit the depth and kinda bugger the threads - you don't want to tap all the way into the main wells (behind the restrictor) and you don't want the thing to fall out either. The 2nd and 3rd pics show the restrictor being threaded in place. The 4th pic show stock power vale circuit and the 4cyl circuit.

 

The next mod is to the main wells, most of these carbs are for circle track and when they are at WOT and come up on a corner the driver is on and off the throttle like crazy - he'll do all manner of crazy shit with the throttle and deny every bit of it - so you've got all this fuel flowing like crazy in the main well, the throttle blade slaps shut and the fuel needs to go someplace or it will 'water hammer' in the main well. I drill about a .022 hole at the top of the emulsion channel, the 1st pic shows where i drill it and the 2nd pic is the drilled hole. Note that there is generally a hole in this location and what you want is to enlarge it, this metering block had the hole to the upper left higher up.

 

Now this hole is definately illegal but nobody has ever caught it. It is an atmosperic equalizing hole i drill into the accelerator pump circuit, it is on the back side of the antisiphon slug and is vented into the fuel bowl. These little 4cyl at high rpm will create such a pressure differential that the antisphon slug becomes ineffective and you will have a high rpm miss.
The 1st pic is where to drill the hole and the angle shown will bring you out inside the mouth of the accelerator pump circuit; the 2nd & 3rd pic show the drill all the way thru and - don't know if you can see it but the bit is protruding into the pump shot circuit; the 4th pic is what the hole looks like outside, you can just see it but it if you are looking for it and it will be under the vent whistle looking like a little flaw in the casting. Now, that hole is .020, i have made them smaller but the bit just barely makes it thru as it is shorter. the 5th pic is some of my bits, need to have a number of them and have a bit holder for each - you don't want to be handling those bits very much as they disappear!

 

Now the 4cyl rattles around quite a bit and the antisiphon slug needs a little more attention. I drill the squirter screw and add a spring to keep it seated. The first 3 pics are the fixture i use to drill the squirter screw and the drilling itself, i like to drill about .150 deep to give the spring lots of movement. The spring is about .090 if i recall - i have never found a really good spring to do this with so if you have better shoot me a PM ok? - i deform the end and shove it up in the (4th pic) and then trim it. the gap between the antisiphon lug and screw is a little over .100 - not much - so i leave the spring long and then when assembling the carb i add fuel to the fuel pump and cycle it and trim the spring to length. each one is different. the 5th pic is the spring 'roughed in'

 

The boosters need some attention as well, the next pic show a stock unmolested booster along side a more competitive booster - the pics show front and back side of the boosters - note the larger inside diameter of the one booster and the extra step cut into the backside, and if you look really really close you well see holley casting numbers and the proper holley finish. What i do knock the old boosters out and the 3rd pic shows the new booster being installed in the throttle body.
And, there you have it. that is one badassed carb, about 600cfm and it'll pull strong thru 8700rpm - after that the engine blocks torque twist so much that it affects the oiling.

 

Not really sure what you have in mind, but I'm running a modified valve cover from a 1985 Thunderbird turbo coupe on a 1988 2.0 (photo in my album of the Morris Minor Woody). It took a lot of grinding and polishing to get it to this point but it's simple and clean maybe that would work for you.

 

Anybody know anything about the 80's Fiesta motor? Is it the same engine? Will the head and what I assume is an electronic ignition interchange? And the Fiesta (5-speed?) transmission and bellhousing?

 

Is that a Rod's header? I like the way you did your blow off valve and connecting it back the the exhaust.

 

The first series Fiesta had the Kent engine.

Sold in the US with a smog version 1600.

I believe the block is slightly different because it needed diffrent mounts for the sideways location / FWD.

A popular swap with my racing buddies was to use the Bosch ignition out of the Spanish built version, and then use the cap off a certain type of Citroen that fitted.
The Bosch was a good distributor and the cap gave more clearence under a double DCOE Weber setup.

I believe later Fiestas had the CVH.

 

The Kent engine was well made, durable, strong, compact, and fairly light. There were numerous variations of the of engine, a lot of them were made, and it was used in a lot of different cars, including assorted race cars. As a result, there is quite a but in info available on the engine, and many upgrade parts(including heads) as well. If an engine that size is what you need the Kent is worth considering.

 

Are Duraspark boxes all the same and the only difference is in the distributor? Will a box for a 2.3 work for a 1.6? Or, should I have grabbed the one I saw on a Fiesta? And oh, the Fiesta is FWD, so no RWD 5-speed transmission there. But, if I ever decide to go FWD ...

Answered my own question:
From Rockauto's catalog I'd say yes to the Motocraft DY893 ignition control module.


BTW: Rockauto also has 1.6 pistons for the '80 Fiesta. So, there's a replacement for the Pinto 1.6.

 

I have a 1978 Pinto 2.3 Question can I use a later (1980's 2.3 ) intake manifold on my 1978 2.3 head? My current intake manifold is cracked.

 

Good eye!!! That is an early Rod's header.. stock location type.. I also used the stock T/Coupe support.
That downpipe was fab'd by a nephew and Kenny Thompson added the wastegate return plumbing
Stan

 

Yes, you can use a later model 2.3 carberated intake on your 78.

BTW. The is "sister" website to the HAMB http://www.dogfightmag.com/forum/ There are alot of people from the HAMB there also where you can talk about O/T cars like our Pinto's

 

I know this should probably be in the classifieds, but since it is directly related to these motors, I'll see if it will fly here. I am looking for a Dual Side Draft Weber Manifold for the 74-80 Oval port style 2300. If anyone knows of a source that has one in stock, or a used one, please let me know.

 

RacerWalsh is the only one that lists a side draft intake for a 2.3 that allows use of a distributor. http://racerwalsh.zoovy.com/product/RWA1250/carb-weber-sidedraft4045-RACER-WALSH.html

Esslinger Engineering also lists one, but it requires use of a distrutorless crank trigger ignition system.

 

Racer Walsh says they are discontinued and they don't have any more.
Man, I really don't want to make one, but I guess I might have to.

 

is there any reason I cant use a turbo motor as a NA carb motor? Whats the profile of the turbo cam like?

 

You can use a turbo motor as a NA engine with no problems, the turbo cam is nothing special. If you can find a 1988, and later ranger 2.3 you can get the roller cam, and roller rockers from it to gain a couple of hp.

 

Doesn't the turbo 2.3 have lower compression?

 

Yes the turbo 2.3 has a little lower compression than a NA 2.3, but it will still scoot a long pretty good without a turbo.

 

Found my way here looking for some info on my 2.3 engine in my racecar.

It's an '88, FI, it's done a lot of 14 to 24-hour races and now is really, really tired. Compression is down a lot on all four cylinders.

Not sure if it's an early or late 2.3, have no idea yet on the port shape etc.

It does not make any bad noises, has good oil pressure and runs at ~180 without a fan at race speeds, however we have a manual electric fan for the pits etc.

If my questions have been answered in the preceding 7 pages I apologize. I didn't see it in the first 4 pages.

Q1: Is 180 a little cool? I've heard 200-210 is a better water temp to run. We can blank off part of the oversized radiator to pull the temp up a little if needed.

Q2: What are the out-of-round tolerances on the bore?

Q3: What are the taper tolerances for the stroke?

Q4: The piston/cylinder wall gap?

Once I open the engine, measure the bores I'll know if needs a hone or a bore.

Thanks