Go onto mikes site and order the book from him. Google classic inlines. It is absolulty the best 20 bucks you will spend on a ford inline.
Yeah, what he said. There should be a link for the book on the classicinlines.com website. What you'ld end up with is something like a 1/4" or so steel or aluminum plate shaped like the bottom carb gasket. The intake casting gets the 1 barrel carb mount milled off, and then a flat area is milled down to give you sort of an oval slot that matches the 350 2 barrel carb base, plus some flats on either side drilled and tapped for some flush mount machine screws, where the recessed screw heads sit like \ / in the new carb base plate. The carb will sit sideways to how it would on a V8. Other guys have done something like this to make a poor man's tri-power by milling for three 1 barrel base plates onto the cast intake. If you're going to wait to re-do the head, you could pick up a good 1969 or up 250 head ( flows better ), have it machined and modified as funds allow, and then swap it out. Later, Kinky6
But it's what that 1981 200 began life with. I mean to say that the c4 was what the 200 left the factory with. Now I'm a bit confused Did I mess up somewhere?
The only problem you have at this point though is that your points distributor won't be compatable with the two barrel carb. The original points distributor is what is refered to as a "load-O-matic", and will only advance with the spark control valve that is built into the original single barrel carb. I know it is more expense, but I just bought a "blue grommet" Duraspark box for the girl's 200 in her wagon yesterday for 18.39 with the tax... You really need to go that way for this build. See, I haven't said any thing, but I'm doing the same swap you are right now, so I have been doing tons of research 'cause it's been about twenty years since the last time I did this deal. You should be able to use the coil and cap and wires that came with the engine if they are in good shape. Don't cheap out on this one and end up with something that will drive you nuts. Instead of skipping the Duraspark, skip a meal!!! Good luck on your home loan too! Congrats!
The Holley has a ported vacuum source located above the throttle blades. Holley also calls it a 'timed' or 'spark' vacuum source. It should be located above the passenger side idle mixture adjustment screw. Since most Ford OEM distributors used ported vacuum for vacuum advance he should be able to use that port with the old dizzy. Even if he uses the Duraspark he'll need that ported vacuum source for it as well.
04-11-2011 Today I almost got killed, but I did manage to disconnect the tranny fromm the car and cleaned the hell out of the steering box. that pile under it is not dirt, it's 49 years of built up crud.
You can bend/flair your own from 5/16 steel tubing using the 2 speed lines as a pattern. Or you could go the easy route!
Hey Big Chief, I have to respectfully disagree with this statement. Ford chose to use a distributor system called Load-O-matic for their small six until '68. it requires the use of a carb with what is called a spark control valve to run it's advance. This works kind of on same principal as a power valve does with fuel. His original disributor has no mechanical advance at all, and is completely vacuum operated. And it sucks... Especially when you try to make it work with a carb that is not equipped with the spark control valve. The Duraspark distributor has a traditional mechanical advance and uses a ported vacuum souce for the secondary advance as you noted. Much better deal all the way around for performance, economy and tuning. I don't normally look for arguments, especially after something posted ten days ago where the poster might not get the chance to see it, but had to set this one straight. Blades, if you gotta run a points style distributor, look for a '68 and later unit with a mechanical advance, but I promise you the Dura spark unit is a better deal. Oh, and try hard not to drop cars on yourself dude... That hurts, trust me! One last thing - how about a wiring diagram for the Duraspark unit? I stole this either from here or Fordsix.com. You just have to clip and reroute one wire in your stock harness... Dead simple! Just did Judy's today.
No argument from me. I was under the impression that Ford axed the Load-O-Garbage dizzys across the board in 1957 when they pulled them off the Y-blocks. Thanks for the correction.
Busy busy day. Got a ton of stuff done. Changed all the bearings, painted the block, oil pan, and exhaust manifold. Gave the engine well a new lease on life after a good degreasing and 2 coats of fresh paint. Took my c4 to the car wash and power washed the hell out of it. I'm using the old oil pan out off that 1963 170. It fit good. Also using the exhaust manifold from that same 170. Only bad thing is that I lost the bolts, can't find them anywhere. I put all the bolts in sanwich bags and labeled them, but still managed to lose those exhaust manifold bolts. WTF? Well look at the pics. I'm shooting for 2 weeks till I have a running car.
DAMN! DAMN! DAMN! I've looked and looked. I can't find those frickin exhaust manifold bolts. On top of that, I lost the timing chain cover bolts too! I don't understand how they walked away? I had them in little bags that were labeled. I can't seem to find them online or at the parts store either. Can I just get some stainless steel ones at the hardware store? Anyone know of anyone that sells them? Sizes? Some one on egay has a set but they are for 65-67. Would they be the same? here's the link.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories On another note: Lesson learned, when buying main bearings, make sure you get the exact same ones. I bought the wrong ones and I should have bought standard size. The engine was locked afterwards. put the old ones back on and it was fine. Turned good. had to eat the new ones as I had already oiled them up and all that. Oh well.
if you look up a company called totally stainless they have engine kits. I used hardware store grade 5 because they where out of stainless for my headers on my truck. Also used lock washers on them, they worked ok, but I kept a wrench with me and after driving it every trip for two weeks I had to snug the bolts up. Make sure you anti-seize the shit out of the bolts. I also tapped all the holes to make sure there isnt any crud in them.
05-01-2011 Todays progress is kind of okay. I scraped that hood of all that insulation junk. Seemed like a fire waiting to happen if you ask me. I also put that bitchin Mustang mirror on and I placed the module in the right inner fender. I figured that was a good place to get it close to the distributor. BTW... dig my cars new home.
Cool! Musta got your new house! Congrats, Your garage looks like a major step up from the previous pictures. As far as the hardware goes, most ACE hardware stores stock a complete line of grade five, eight, and stainless in stock. Beware though, you do pay for it being close by. If you truely want stainless you will find it cheaper to go to an industrial supplier in your city. But I have yet to be in an ACE store that didn't stock what you need. I can get some demensions for you in the morning if you still need them.
Wow! I must've read your mind and did just that. Got the bolts at ACE. We're you sending me brain messages? So today I got a little more work done. Not much (my hands hurt), carb, exhaust manifold, oil filter, plugs, fan. Wasn't really feeling it today. Last 3 weeks have been long and today was 1st day to sit. Another thing learned on this build... gotta take breaks, can't work 12 hours then go home and spend three more in the garage.
05-04-2011 Installed new valve stem seals and new push rods. The old seals were like bake-a-lite. So hard, I had to squeeze and crack them off. motor is 99% done. Just have to cut oil pick up down about an inch because I used the old oil pan of the '63 170 and the pick up tube in the '81 was different, as well as the shapes of the oil pans. Ignition coil is on, pulleys are on, alternator is on, everything torqued. Just have to finish up that tube and install oil pan and belt, After that.... done rebuilding
Whoa! What a ride this has been (so to speak). I tried to drop my motor and tranny in last week and I ended up breaking the down shift detente lever which in turn pushed that screw in and broke some stuff inside. Located the parts on Friday and it was fixed. Here we go, 2nd attempt today. YAY! It's in. Driveshaft was perfect even though I ended up using the yoke that came with my c4. Car sits with out a drivesheft rite now. I was too tired to look for new U-Joints. I now need to situate carb, trans lines, fuel lines, drive shaft, radiator, hoses, carb linkage, figure out the extra pigtail off the ignition modulator, and 1 or 2 or 3 minor things. I figure another 4 to 6 hours and I can fire my baby up. First picture is of broken detente. My new yoke has a balancer on it. IS this ok?
NOOOOOOO! My fan from the '63 motor is hitting the balancer from the '81 motor. I scrapped the old one this morning, like a dumb ass!!!!! I had a feeling to take it off, but didn't have an extractor. I think I have to stick with that fan because of radiator clearance. Uggggh, small set back... still a pain in the rump! 1st pic is the old one, 2nd and 3rd are the new.
Jesse. The 200 has the balancer and pulley on it. These engine profiles really look similar, was the balancer from his old 170 interchangable with the 200, the forward profile of the old 170 sure looked great for clearance.
AAAHHH young grasshopper... Now you learn why nothing gets scrapped while you are still working! it looks like the pulley might unbolt from the front of the balancer on the late motor, but does it still have a groove? Otherwise, I would talk to falconparts.com for a new one.
So the balancer from the 170 and 200 are interchangable? Geez, I feel bad now. I told Jesse I didn't have a puller but meant to say just not with me. Ughhhh.
I know things are tight up front on these cars, but they can't be quite as tight as our Falcon.. Any chance a short spacer can worm it's way between the fan and the pump pulley? It will put it closer to the radiator, which is good, but also alow it to clear the damper. It shouldn't take much.
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