I have a 68 302 w/ manual ******, has a HEI Distrib, good battery, new solenoid, new bat, starter cables, new ground from engine to frame. Timing is advanced to about 15 degrees...but still having trouble turning the engine over...during ignition the engine turns very slow, i also have a heat issue at the starter. The starter case is hot to the touch and the new cable is hot too at the starter end...so before i pull the starter to get it checked, is there anything else i've missed?
hot cables and starter are a result of high amp draw and that is usually caused by bad connections, insufficient grounds or cables to small to handle the load. is this a new build? has the car always had this problem or is this something that just began to happen?
the cables a 4 gage and yes this has always been an issue...the car will start but I usually have to jump it...The PO never had any grounds to the engine from rails, I finally installed that when I took out the engine...usually my bat goes dead trying to start...the bat has 600 cranking amps...so, i'm at a loss..
Sounds like the engine is too tight for some reason. Have you had this car running so it is drivable ? 600 cca is ok, but JUST ok. That is a little on the light side for a V8, but I don't think that is your problem. Have you ever pulled the plugs and turned the engine over with a rachet ? Don Don
My 302 was hard to start, new starter and it would crank but did not want to run or would run rough. Finally found that it had the wrong adapter under the carb allowing the vacuum to screw everything up. Probably not your problem though.
I've had a number of bad re-built Ford 289/302 starters over the years. My inclination would be test the starter.
I go back to my original question......have you tried turning the engine over without plugs by hand to see how easily it turns ? That is the FIRST thing I would do to rule out a too tight motor. I had a 351 Ford that would only start on two huge batteries and I thought it was because of the high compression. Turned out it was seizing up. Don
Being a Ford guy it is my guess you have a bad starter. You can pull the plugs and see if it spins freely then work from there. When it draws that much current it probably is due to voltage going right to the case rather than the armature. Also check your cables. Peal back some of the insulation and make sure that it is not corroded inside. Good Luck
All the cables are new like nt a week old. It worries me if the engine is seizing however when started it runs smooth an idles at 800 to 900 rpm. Taking the started out tomorrow an getting it tested. Buy the way I installed a new wire harness too so new wires, cables, cleaned and new connections. From my perspective I've covered all the bases except the starter. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
People always ignore the easy things to do first . That is why I suggested pulling the plugs and turning it over by hand, then you have ruled that possibility out and you would know for sure. But you don't seem to want to go to that trouble. Don
No, I'm doing that too. But I want to test the starter as well. It's old an needs to be tested. Thx for your help an insight Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Convert your starter to a Hi-Torque PGMR starter like later Fords use like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-73-MUS...Parts_Accessories&hash=item58b09e729a&vxp=mtr I have one on my 302 and it really spins it over and gives better exhaust clearance.
I know it has been suggested, but pulling the plugs and checking rolling torque is a good idea and where I would start. I also saw some suggestions about re-man starters being sub-par; also possible. Is the battery far from the starter like in the trunk, if all the connections are good, tight and clean maybe 4 gauge is too small.
There is something wrong if the starter or the cables get hot to the touch. It may take more than just a visual look. I had a hard start problem and everything looked good until I saw a spark at the solenoid. I could not see the connection while starting it. I only noticed it while a buddy started it with my head under the hood. The connection was loose. I believe in overkill when it comes to battery cables. Especially if they run a long way. I'd remove each and every connection in the cables, clean well and tighten it back up.
The starter and battery are both in the engine bay the batter is located across from the battery about 42 inch. The po had a heavy gage like for a tractor. It was very thrashed n corroded. I replaced it with standard 4 gage. I'll remove plugs this am and check the starter. I've priced the hi torke starters pricy Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
New starter runs perfect. Old one was shorting out at the power connection. Thx fellas!! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I would also throw a timing light on it and check the total timing. I have ran a lot of sbf engines and 15 degrees sounds high on the initial timing. Just my 2 cents. Jim Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Good Deal! I had one run where the parts place gave me 3 bad 289 starters in a row. I don't think they'd really ever been tested. They just cleaned them up, dressed the commutator, and installed bearings & brushes. Then if it spins it goes on the shelf.
I had the same thing happen with alternators. Bought one, it lasted a short period of time before it ****ped out, they gave me a new one. It too died a little while later and I went back, they handed me a 3rd one, which also died a short while after that. When I took the 3rd one back the guy at the parts place said "Ok, I'll give you ONE MORE, but you have something wrong with your car that is chewing them up." When he brought out the new one I had him put it on their tester, and I saw him lay it down after running a test. He went back and got a second one, and it tested bad too , right out of the box. Finally, he got a 3rd alternator off the shelf and it tested good. When he handed me the final good one I said "What was that you were saying about my car chewing them up !" He couldn't look me in the eye. The fact is, the people who rebuild these things find the most obvious problem and do not go beyond that point to see what else might be wrong. Now I only by AC Delco starters and alternators. My friend at the local Advance Auto tells me all the time to not buy their alternators and starters but to go to AC Delco instead. Don
Wow don, sounds like a quality control issue at your auto parts store. Say are you one of those guys who's been hit by lightening 5 or 6 times? Or the guy who always draws the short straw every time? Hope you have better luck in the future. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The Jalopy Journal
