What is the difference? Does anyone have a pic? I took a pair that I got out of a 41 truck and put them into a, I think, 38 frame. I had to cut the frame to make it work.... Now, I've been reading some threads and see where people are wanting 39 only......what gives?
it's basiclly the linkage arm on the clutch pedal , they are different.....`39 was the first year of the hydraulic brake master cylinder ,a one year ony thing ,and the cluch pedal will match up with the clutch linkage on earlier cars... this is where a picture would be worth 10,000 words...maybe someone will post some
When you are doing a ground-up build it's easy to put in a '40-48 shaft in the trans when you don't have a body on it.The '39 setup was easier to change when converting a car to hydraulics, saved pulling the trans out and swapping the flat ended clutch release lever. Also have to mount the pivot ball on the frame, hard to get to. The '39 is a tidy setup but for over 100 bucks not worth it if you don't have to. I have a '39 set but used the extra linkage setup because it wasn't hard to get to when I was constructing mine, save it for when I really need it. The whole clutch link setup from a '46 car went into my pickup case along with the gears. Then used '49 pickup pedals because they mounted flat. http://www.directimagehost.com/is.php?i=58649&img=Dsc02032.jpg http://www.directimagehost.com/is.php?i=58649&img=Dsc02032.jpg
Good info. Here's where I put 41 pedals in a, I think, 38 frame. I wasn't real please with how it looks. It's functional, however. You can see where I clearanced the frame. Grandpa showed me how to change the shafts but I didn't understand, because I didn't know there was a difference in the pedals....
i looking at your pictures , i can see you did a few modafictions to use the later linkage , looks like it should work...but may i sugest beefing up the frame where the pivot ball mounts , it looks like you will get some frame flex there.....original ford frames had an extra stiffener plate on the frame , and they still flexed when you pushed the clutch...i have even beefed up the ball pivot itself as i have had a few break when using a heavy duty clutch, something to think about..a lot of strees in that area you do know you will need the br*** split bushing on the ball before it goes into the tube
Yes, there is some flex. It looks thinner in the pics than what it is. It's actually two pcs. of flat steel welded around the perimeter. It's about 1/4" or a little better. I was gonna run a pc from another point to triangulate it some. Yes, on the br*** bushing, those are just mock up pics..... I pretty much just got that frame to the point that I could start it up and drive it in and out to get it out of the way. I haven't touched it since I got my roadster body.... Originally, I got that 35-40 and a Model A frame so I could go in about any direction with a build. I didn't know what I'd wind up with.....beggars can't be choosers...
OK, I was just down working on the gas tank and I took the camera to get clarification for myself as well. The first pic is the '46 set on the left and the '39 on the right. The **** wipe that had the coupe before put an automatic in and not only tossed the clutch pedal but torched off the arm(2nd pic). But you can see it was above the grease fitting on the right end of the shaft. ****ch shaft pivoted inside the framework and the brake pedal. The lefthand (3rd pic)is the '46 pedals and an I don't know what pivot and ball, both pedals pivot on the stationary shaft. 4th pic is the stock '37 pedals with the left hand clutch link and no master cyl mount. Hmmm... could the late master cylinder framework be combined with the mech. brake shaft to get the '39 setup result? Somebody musta thought of it already. Reguardless, it sounds like a snow day project, summer's a burnin! http://www.directimagehost.com/is.php?i=101610&img=DSC02456.JPG http://www.directimagehost.com/is.php?i=101611&img=DSC02457.JPG http://www.directimagehost.com/is.php?i=101612&img=DSC02458.JPG http://www.directimagehost.com/is.php?i=101613&img=DSC02459.JPG
Thanks guys! This let's me know that I have a 37 and earlier pedal ***em, and that I can use anything from 39 to 48! Rodrelic, You want to part with that hacked-up 39 ***ym, so I can see if I can combine it with my 37 to come up with somethin special?
The biggest advantage of the '39 pedals is you can drill out the pin on the clutch arm, swing it 90 degrees throw in a bolt and you've just turned it into a pull type clutch pedal from a push type. It worked perfectly on my '32 with a flathead T-10 combination.
Ok, I picked up this set of 39 pedals yesterday. Well, that's what the guy told me they were! "Yep, it'll fit anything you own." Don't you love it! But, they may actually be 39's...dunno... The black set in the pics came from a 41 truck frame. I'm the one that took them out. However, this doesn't mean someone else didn't change them, but I'm VERY doubtful about that. Add anything you feel is helpful to this... Pics..... EDIT: they are not 39's, I have since seen a real set but I didn't get a pic...
RR Are your links down? I can only get one link to work. I was going to add some info but wanted to look at your pics again. I'll PM you my email and maybe you could send them......thanks!
Yes, direct image was not acessable for a day, and when back some pic's had disappeared and some had been shuffled, and had the wrong adress. Can't find these, can get them out of storage and get them back on direct image if neeed.
I stole this from ebay..... these are 39's.....someone please correct me if this is wrong I have a question, did a 39 standard have a different set of pedals, is this where the identification trouble comes in? EDIT: Hey Grimmy, what happened to all of the pics in this thread?
Tell me what these came from. They were part of a Ford ch***is that turned up at the Town Dump. I have the pedals buy can't locate them right now.
I have found that early truck pedals work too...like 54-55's They have the same design as the 39 pedal setup w/ the pivot arm at the inside of the ***embly being driven by a clutch shaft. A simple and cheap alternative to the high $$$ 39 setups.
At least you got the little ball. Usually people get rid of that along with the frame..... 39 doesn't have that......so, 40 up? Mac's catalog has two different lengths of shaft and 2 or 3 different balls....
Pedals are probably '40-48 p***enger, if that's a fragment of X member...two slightly different versions during this period. Commercials and trucks also used the, and I think they carried over to F-1 types too. That little shaft and arm picks up the motion from the clutch arm that's way over on the left on a '40-48 pedal ***embly and reaches from framerail to clutch throwaout shaft on trans. I don't see why it couldn't be easily adapted on pre-40 cars to allow use of pedals other than the '39'$. All the needed hardware is available new still from Macs and such places, and is common at fleam arkets too. There are several variants of the shaft from various applications, and shortening would not be much trouble. Original purpose of this rig was to isolate engine noise and motion from p***enger compartment.
If I knew then, what I know now, I wouldn't have done this.......However, I keep the pc. I cut out. According to the serial # on this frame, I think it's a 38. The pedal ***m. came from a 41 truck. I had to cut the frame out and weld a lower and wider pc in..... knowing about 39 pedals now, I'd use them...wouldn't have to cut the frame...... first time I ever used my mig.....so judge accordingly...
I'm a little confused. I just got these pedals. they look like the 39s in the pic, but they have the lever on the clutch pedal, not on the shaft.
... but they have the lever on the clutch pedal, not on the shaft. Those are '40-48 type. Bracket same for all those years, some minor differences in pedals, I think. It will need the rocker piece you have to work. I can't think of any reasonable way to convert later pedals to early style actuation, but the late style clutch actuation should work fine in most applications with little extra work, I'd think.
......40 and up also requires the cross shaft and the ball on the frame.....remember the ****** has an arm sticking up on it 39 back down, and the 40 up has the flat spot on the rod going into the transmission- that moves the throw-out bearing...
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