I'm sure ethis info is out there, but inswear search engines are getting harder and harder to get good answers out of them... Anyways, I'm trying to find out what the distance is from the face of the housing (mounting surface of the chunk/pumpkin/thirdmember) to the centerline of the housing. I'm wanting to compare this to the measurement of the existing rear end in the car so I can get an idea of whether or not I'll need to have a drive shaft made when the new housing shows up. For the first time in a long time I don't have another car with a 9 inch housing in the shop at the moment... Big thanks to whoever can help me out!
1.688? But what you really want to know is the distance from the U joint to the center of the housing, eh?
Daytona Pinion Yoke , I think is the longest and toughest . It takes the biggest u joint also. I had a couple at one time . F150 extended cab : N case and Daytona Yoke , OEM installed
Depending on original application of the third member the the center line of the yoke (U joint trunion) from the seal face can vary enough to throw things off a bit too much. Then if you throw in an aftermarket yoke like the billet one I have out in my stash (steel) all bets are off again.
That's what I needed to know! Thanks Squirrel! You are correct, the important measurement is axle center to U joint center. I already know the distance from the mating surface to the yoke, but the chunk I was looking at tonight was bolted into one of those plastic cases and I wasn't able to remove it to measure myself. Long story short it's going to require some minor surgery to get out of that thing, and that has to wait for another day when I'm not pressed for time... The rear end I'm replacing is in my '60 Chevy. I measured about 1.5" give or take on the Chevy rear, and both the Chevy unit and the Ford in question are about 10" from mating surface to yoke. That's just with a tape, so not super precise, but pretty darn close as far as drive shaft length goes. I'll be able to get better measurements as things progress, but this at least gives me some information to chew on and plan things out a little. My biggest concern is the car being down for more than a weekend since it's my daily driver, so I really have to plan ahead and get all my ducks in a row as much as I can. I really appreciate the help.
If your replacing the 8.2 in that 60 with a 9 inch, one thing to take into account is the pinion sets lower in a 9 inch than the 8.2 does.
Colin mentioned the different length pinon yokes. But yeah, I could slide under my two 62 Chevys and compare the distance from U joint center line to axle housing center line. The one with the 9" has an aftermarket 1350 yoke, though.
You'll be doing good to replace your current ('55 - '64) pig style rear end with the stronger niner. With a built 327 I actually twisted both sides of my early Chev housing doing hole shots. The pinion gear was inching its way upward.
The 9" I have is about 3/4" shorter from U joint to center of housing, than the original 62 rear. There are different length yokes for the 9", though, as mentioned.
and dont forget different diameter universal joints though 1310 and 1330 are the same diameter, the spread is further on a 1330 and a 1350 uses bigger bearings in the uj and of course, the 9 inch did come with a square flange in some applications so before you do anything, check the uj in the driveshaft cross ref the uj sizes plus of course gm driveshafts use inside clips and fords outy style - the more trad versions just for a laugh, i can't understand how modern driveshafts are simly peened over to hold the caps in, how do they get them in the middle?
Squirrel you are the man! I appreciate you taking the time. I actually got ahold of two different third members, one has a short yoke and the other a long one. I think based on the yoke being lower, and your measurements there, I'm going to have to have a longer shaft made. Inwas really hoping I'd luck out and have it all done in a weekend, but that's how it goes. Now I'm moving on to figuring out what gears I'm gonna get, but that's another-nother can of worms.
Get the rear shaft made with a slip yoke would be a good plan, it will help save the center support bearing.
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