I've always had bearings pressed on and off by shops so I'm not sure how the bearings are placed on the axle. This is why I'm wondering, if you have a rear end that's 1/2 in to narrow can you put a 1/4 inch spacer between the housing flange and backing plate, then move the bearing down the axle a 1/4 inch so the axle would protrude out of the housing that same 1/4 inch making it all line up. I know you can buy wheel spacers in 1/4 inch but I thought if you could put the spacer behind the backing plate you wouldn't have that extra stress on the lugs that a spacer can cause if running a real sticky tire. These Moser axles have a sealed bearing and a horseshoe retaining plate.
I would want the bearing pressed flush to the axel bearing seat on the axle with the proper bearing retainer sleeve. If you want to play with the backing plate mount or housing ends, that is different. If you are pulling the outer bearing race out of it's seat in the housing end the load range of the bearing will be void and null.
If you want to do it with a bearing spacer I would go the extra mile and machine one to be exact to the housing end so the bearing hole of the spacer also was supporting the bearing race just like the housing end. Doing that in 1/4" material would probably be okay. I'd also check side gear to spline engagement. Minimum length should be same as Axle shaft dia. More is better.
Don't do anything to the axles. If installing a spacer behind the backing plate, put a matching thickness spacer in the bearing bore so the bearing fits that much shallower in the housing. The outside race of the bearing should be flush with the mounted backing plate surface so that the retainer can lightly sandwich the bearing between the retainer and the housing. As noted by Wizzard, also make sure the bearing bore in the backing plate spacer extends the housing bore for support. Do check for spline engagement. With the axle out another 1/4", you may have issues with axle seal leaks as the seal won't be riding on/in the designed part of the axle any longer. I'd make all parts from steel, no aluminum. Truthfully, if shearing a wheel stud is a real concern, I'd step up to a 5/8" stud and just use a spacer.
Several things to consider. The bearings seldom , if ever survive being pressed back off the axle. The bearings in the pic have o- rings on the OD , so keeping the bearing all the way inside the housing is critical to keep from leaking. All in all....most aftermarket axles have extra long splines.. I suggest trimming the splined end to solve your problem.. Dave Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
@dave lewis , my take is he needs tire clearance on the inside, due to the concerns of running a wheel spacer.
The axle has enough room on the machined surface for the bearing, retaining ring, and the seal surface...that's it. I don't know where the extra 1/4" would come from?
That's the part I didn't know, if there was a specific section of the axle that was machined at a different size from the rest of the axle or if there was a raised section that stopped the bearing from going so far up the axle. Sounds like that idea is kapoot, unless you had a set of axles made with all that a 1/4 inch further down which I doubt they would be interested in doing.
The axle flange determines where the brake drum fits into the brake backing plate. Adding 1/4 to the axle stick out would be a bit of a can of worms kind of deal. -Abone.
That's why I wanted to put the 1/4 spacer between the axle flange and the backing plate, then if I was able to get the axle out of the housing the same 1/4 inch then everything should line up like normal. In theory lol
If what you need is more space between the frame and the tire sidewall you could do the simple thing and get rear wheels with the proper offset.
I think what you want to do would be a can of worms the way you are considering. I would buy another rear end housing and narrow it so it is 1/4" wider (or 1/2" overall). Then bolt everything in place and the only thing that changes is how far the axles stick into the pumpkin. Sell the housing you have and all you are out is the cost/or time for the narrowing. Be sure to get one with the same ends as the one you have......usually a $100 or less for a bare housing.
I think this thread needs to get back to the root nead or reason for all this contrivance. If for tire clearance I for one would never space the axle out of the housing. Such seriously alters the expected load on the axle bearing...enhancing failure.
I personally would never space the bearing at a different location than it’s designed to be fully seated to the axle . Only a 1/4 inch , spacer between wheel and hub , would be my answer . In today’s industry , they can be NC cut in 10 mins out of what ever material you choose cheaply . Just my thinking .
No body has considered the fact that your pulling the axle out of the third member splines and lessening the contact area of the axle splines to the posi, spool or whatever your running in the 3rd member. Maybe on a cruiser BUT only after I knew how much axle spline engagement I had first. Sounds like a great way to strip the splines off of the axle and/or third member center section to me, especially if one is a "spirited" driver..... ...
I'd bet in the 4 plus Years since ekimneirbo asked for some input he has already cured his Delima and moved on. If not, he's beyond help.
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