Ford 9 inch rear wheel bearing replacement

I need to replace a wheel bearing on my 59 Ford 9 inch rear. The axle is out, just need to get the old bearing and retainer off the axle. Do they have to be pressed off with a press or can they be hammered off with basic hand tools? I don't want to start pounding and damage anything. I've done things like that before.

 

You are not likely to get them off the hard way. You would also risk damage to the axle, so i wold look for a press and the right bearing tools.

 

I do not agree, but the local place cuts the retaining ring with a torch. I have always tried to use a press and press them. Most roller type bearings come with a new lock ring.

LIKE I SAID, I DON'T AGREE TO THE TORCH METHOD

 

Pressed off by local machine shop, new one replaced by same---No regrets.------------Don

 

you can use a cut off wheel and cut through the bearing on both sides to remove the outer shell and take the bearings off then cut the inner shell on two sides 180 degrees from each other be careful not to go all the way through to the axle use a chistle and tap the inner shell and it will split apart very easy to do. Use a press to place new bearing on and heat the retainer until its cherry red and drop it on the axle I use a 1 1/2 piece of pipe about 8" long to tap it in place...............

 

Check wh a few local parts places. I had to call around a bit but i found a local place that would take off the old and press on the new one for a few bucks over the price of the new bearing, took about ten minutes while i waited.

 

I not sure but would it not be a bad idea to cut them with a torch because the axle's are hardened?

 

So I took my 57 big bearing rear axles to one of the largest shops in the city to have the bearings removed. They torched them (and chiseled presumably). The counter guy set them in the trunk for me so I never noticed the mess until I got home. I cleaned off all the torch mess before taking these pictures. Now what? Is there any chance these are still usable??

 

they are not good with a torch by the pics but some emery cloth and it will be fine

 

More specifically, try a local parts place with a machine shop that does this stuff all the time. They won't torch and chisel if they know what they are doing. A few questions in advance of any shop work will save you much grief....ie: "the guy who usually does this was on vacation, so the guy who saw him do it once said he would do it" or "we don't usually do that, but we will" I'm glad I have a parts place that can get most everything and do the press work, make hoses, etc

 

Whoa, you found a hack shop, go back and get some money from them....

 

Post 7 below yours is why you don't want someone taking them off with a torch. Too many guys with a torch make a bigger mess than they fix.

It's an easy for most any shop with a press to do and not at all expensive.

 

Good advice there. If the guy who usually does it isn't there go somewhere else.

 

57 big bearing axles are too nice to have them hacked up.
They need to be cut off. The 9" bearing inner race (where you'd press against) is barely above the seat on the axle, can't get a bearing splitter on it. Grinder, ziz wheel with hammer and chisel - it isn't as bad as you think.
Like another said, get the wedding ring red hot, drop it on and drive it in place.

 

I had a 69 Bronco axle which I had an issue with getting them off..I used a 4" cut-off wheel..it was of in 5 seconds..I cut it just short of going through..then I tapped it with a chisel and hammer..piece of cake!!

 

There is so much tension on the retaining collar the if you take your time w/a cutoff wheel the collar will crack once you are about 1/2-3/4 the way through. If it doesn't a wack or two in the groove w/a chisel will crack it. You can get it off w/1 cut but 2 will make it much easier to slide off. Done this quite a few times w/Ford 9" and Dana axles.

 

I once had a spun bearing on a Ford axle, the machine shop said the axle was no good as it was scored. Had them press a new bearing on after scoring the area with a chisel to provide more support area. It was still working 9 years later when I got rid of the car.

 

I wouldn't even think about using those axles in that condition. Each one of those chisel digs are stress risers where possible cracks could develop.

 

Cut the retainer ring with a cut off wheel or torch...if you're good with one. I always use a 3' long piece of 2" pipe to drive the new bearing and collar on.

 

Any half assed mechanic with a press in his shop prolly has the fixtures to press a brg. off and on an axle. My buddy has all this $h!t in a one man shop... Key word here being "mechanic"...

 

I just took a bearing and retainer off on of my 9" axles tonight. I used a 1mm cut off wheel to slice the retainer parallel to the axle, then a few whacks with a chisel had it loose.

The bearing I carefully cut a slot into on opposite sides, whacked with a chisel, it cracked open.

Now, how to get the new stuff on? I hear you can get the bearing hot in boiling water, but the retainer ideally needs to be loads hotter, dropped on, quickly tapped down?

Or I could jury-rig a press out of a hydraulic bottle jack and some steel box section. Is it worth it for one axle?

 

you slide the bearing on, stick it in a hydraulic press with the right size tube againset the inner race and on it goes

 

I'll either rig up a press or find a local shop with one. I can't afford to fuck this up as I ordered the bearings from the USA to do this job, and I sure ain't in Kansas now.

 

I myself took mine to a reputable shop. Was a little more than I thought it was going to be, but do you really want your axles to fail because of a hack job? Not me...

 

You don't need a press!
Stand the axle on it's flange on your garage floor. If the lug bolts are in it then put a block of steel under the center of the flange so the studs don't get damaged.
Place the bearing and collar on the axle.
Use a piece of steel pipe about 3' long that fits over the axle and is smaller than the collar OD to drive the bearing and collar in place. Do this by raising the pipe about a foot above the bearing and driving it downward with both hands as hard as you can. Repeat until the bearing and collar are seated correctly. Usually takes 4-6 good raps with the pipe.
The best mechanic I've ever known taught me that trick.
When we used flanged axles on the race cars we'd install the bearings that way. Never a problem.

 

I know I'm getting old but all parts houses that turned brake drums also pressed axle bearings on and off. It usually cost $5 and most would do it while you waited. The newer cars are either front wheel drive or have the bearing in the tube it seems.

The kid next door must have called fifty places here in Houston and found one that would press on his new bearings, they charged him $50 and took three days.

 

Whatever shop did that to the axles in post no. 8 needs to be shut down or at least plant a shade tree in the middle of the shop. It can be done properly with torch or cut-off wheel (If you know what you"re doing). If not take it have it done right so it doesn"t get screwed up.

 

My shop manual (1951 Mercury) says to cut the retaining rings with a cold chisel and then press off the bearings.

I don't have a press, so I sliced the outer bearing using a Dremel with a cutting wheel and whacked it with the chisel. It split right off. I removed the cages and ball bearings and did the same cut-and-chisel on the inner bearing case. You don't have to cut all the way through the bearing. Just give it a good slice and hit it.

I reinstalled both the bearings and the retainers with a brass drift and hammer. Roundy-round a little at a time. Worked for me.

BTW: I wouldn't boil a bearing in water. The goal is to keep water out of them, not force it in.

 

also ,you can put the retainer up against a bench grinder and grind most of the retainer right before it hits the axle , a coulple blows with the hammer and chizzle , and then you can press the bearing off !dont heat up the bearing , it will ruin the seal and you will be back to square one , press the bearing on , then the retainer , done !

 

was a mechanic in a shop with a parts counter///came up with this method on my own //even with all the right tools at hand this was the quickess
method>>>never a come back...........