I have a mercury xxxxx with 4 link suspension that currently has a 8 inch. I was going to swap to a new fabricated 9 inch. However the closest sizes I can find are 58" and 60" wide. Stock is 59.25". Like I said I have 4 link suspension and the wheel wells are minitubbed should I go shorter to a 58" or would I be ok to run a 60" wide rear end since it's closer to stock.
The year is OT for the HAMB, but Currie (others too) can make a 9 inch housing up for you. Get to Googling it.
Use the 58" and go slightly deeper offsets or a thin spacer to compensate. Easy to make em wider to fit the fenders. Not so much the other way around.
Suggest you edit your post, don’t mention the year of the vehicle. Just use “I have a xxx from a ‘68 Cougar. That will fly.
Yup, the year of the car will not fly on the main board. There is a sub-forum for things that don't comply with main board rules: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/forums/off-topic-hot-rods-customs.98/ You can post it there, or just forget to mention the year, and model. You have a Mercury with a 4-link. Edit the rest out of the post, and leave it at that. This is a valid question that has answers that apply to any vehicle. That said put your tires in the tubs, and where they look best to you. Measure the distance between the outer beads. Measure the distance between the inner beads. Subtract 3-1/2" from the outer measurement. Add 3-1/2" from the inner measurement. This is a good estimation of how wide the axle could be and use a conventional wheel. Make sure that the wheels that you desire are available with a backspacing that will work with the available axle widths. Remember, thin spacers are acceptable, but don't over do it. If you already have your wheels and tires mounted, put them where you want them, and measure the distance between the mounting surfaces. That's your width. Remember that you cannot use spacers to make it anything but wider.
Would love to just have one made however I'm a broke 20 year old with multiple projects so even good pricing by most guys standards is out of my reach. But I think I'm going to go with a 58" because the mini tubs are about 3 1/2 inches wide so it should still work it's just gonna tuck my tires a little more. And I can always change wheels up to make it fit. This was an abandoned drag car project I got right after highschool and have been trying to restore it to streetable. And I appreciate all the help as I started this project with almost zero car knowledge
Just to let you know, look into the "OffTopic" section for posting and there will be plenty of people to help you. There is more to getting a 9" than just buying one that's the right width. Generally the narrower ones are more expensive, but most of them have 28 spline axles which aren't as strong. Since you have a 4 link and apparently want more strength, it's often best to buy a wider one with 31 spline axles. It's also hard to get one that has the ratio you want......if its got a 3.25 and numerically higher ratio.....seller usually wants more for it. Depending on where you are located, you can pick up a complete 9" for $150 - $250. Buying an incomplete unit and then trying to get the additional parts will end up costing you far more. I'd suggest you purchase this book off Amazon. It will save you far more than it costs and will tell you what vehicles had what rears in them.
You need to think of available wheels also, if the rear is close to the same width as the inner wheel tub you'll need a deep dish rim with all offset, if the rear end is to wide then the rim will need to be the opposite. My 57 chevy pickup had a 62 inch wide axle but I put a 58 inch in it, my optimum rear rim would be a 15x10 with 4.5 backspace and 5.5 on the front +/- thickness of rim at mounting surface. Most vintage 15x10 rims only have a 3.5 inch backspace making it push to far towards the fender lip, the next size rim down is a 15x8.5 which normally has a 2.75-3 inch backspace making the rim not push far enough out to the fender lip. So think about everything before committing to the width of the rear.
Here is a list I have saved on my computer, it's a old list and I am sure there are a lot more nowadays. HRP 65-66 Mustang = 57.25 inches. 67-70 Mustang = 59.25 inches. 71-73 Mustang = 61.25 inches. 77-81 Versailles = 58.50 inches. 67-73 Mustang, Torino, Ranchero, Fairlane = 59.25 inches to 61.25 inches. 57-59 Ranchero and Wagon = 57.25 inches.
There are builders all across this nation. Many of us can build axle housings, and/or narrow them. Where abouts are you?
Welcome to the hamb. It's good to see folks of your generation here. A few pieces of information that you might or might not find useful: Rear End Widths (carnut.com) Gear Ratio To Tire Size Chart - My Jeep TJ Ford 9 inch Tech - MalibuRacing.com
A couple of things about my post above: If I knew who made the handwritten page I'd give credit (if someone knows please speak up) Kale - you might want to include your location in your profile; there might be someone close enough to help or sell/give you parts
I've used a lot of 57-59 Ford rears when I started my chassis business but sadly they are gone. I shortened a bunch of 60-64 rears with my homemade fixture. As I got older and busier I also got tired of all the grease and the mess involved. I started with Currie but eventually shipping pallets of housings, axles and breaks from CA became to expensive and I went to John's. Never had a bad experience with them. Why I'm rambling is sometimes the little extra expense involved with buying a new quality housing and axles is worth it. Nice and clean with no greasy parts.
Since the OP states car is mini tubbed then he should get the wheels and tires he wante to use and then make/get rear axle at dimension required.
Ford intermediate cars used different rear axle assemblies depending on the engine used. 6 cylinders and small blocks got the 8" rear, and FE engines got the 9", although I have seen a small block (289 or 302) with a 9". Tolerances also a little broad, so 59.25" or 60" not far apart. Brake packages can also come into play. I am sure @Crazy Steve can add more.
For further information I would be using a bolt on disk brake kit and my wheels are 15x10 with 3.50 back spacing. In can get a 60" brand new and not have to order one. Just didn't know if it was better to do that or go to a 58" which is a little short
Only you will know if wider or narrower will work. The suggestion above to locate the tire/wheel combo you have under the car and measure is where you want to start. Now you’re talking new, I’d be willing to bet the difference in lead time from Currie, QP, etc, would be on par with something off the shelf, so to speak.
Keep in mind that a rear disc setup can add about another 1/2" to the overall width because of the thickness of the rotor 'hat' compared to most drums. That's if it's a cast iron version. Aftermarket aluminum hats may add even more. Personally, I'd tend more towards a narrower housing if clearances are an issue. Finding wheels with less backspacing is usually easier than the other way around. Most OEM Ford 6" steel wheels have a 4.25" backspace and the housing widths were selected for specific cars by Ford with that in mind. So you've 'added' 1.5" width with the wheel change plus another possible 1/2" with the discs so your 58" housing is now roughly equivalent to an as-installed OEM 60" unit. As several posters have noted, careful measurement is critical if clearances are tight. Only YOU can decide what's needed, although I'd recommend no less than 1/2" on either side of the tire to avoid rubbing.
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