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Ford King Pin Question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Flathead Youngin', Jul 24, 2005.

  1. Flathead Youngin'
    Joined: Jan 10, 2005
    Posts: 3,666

    Flathead Youngin'
    Member

    I have a Superbell 4" dropped axle. I've had a set of NOS king pins for a while and got ready to install them. Well, the LOCKING PIN looks like to me that it drops in the hole waaaay to deep.

    So, I thought that maybe the ole' fella that I get most of my stuff from had mixed and matched a set and put the wrong ones in. I went out to his house to get another set of the locking bolts. Well, I forgot my stuff.......I just happened to be that way. He showed me another set and I took them. I just knew they'd fit be cause they just "looked" bigger. They certainly were longer, but not any larger in diameter.

    What am I doing wrong?

    I'm using a set of round back spindles.......see in pic


    As a side note, I picked up these old spindles off of the same ole guy. Great fella! He said these were NOS (all his stuff is :)) but I knew they weren't. You can see where an old hot rodder cut off the steering arm and re welded it back on....so the tie-rod end would be on top. The person that did it, certainly did a good job. My point is, you NEVER know where this old stuff has been and what it has been a part of.......if only they could talk!
     

    Attached Files:

  2. marq
    Joined: Aug 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,423

    marq
    Member

    ok the kingpins for round back up to 42 spindles are longer than the later 42-48 squarback spindles.Now first put the spindle to the axle and gently twist the kingpin into the hole ,at the bottom bush of the spindle you will notice a gap between the spindle and the axle .That gap is about 1/2 inch high and is for the bearing and shims.Trial fit untill you have no or very little up and down play and then you are ready to fit properly.Take all tp bits again.Now fit hollow washer to the kingpin hollowside down to road,then you fit the felt washer inside the hollow,push pin into top of spindle making note of where the cotter pin cutout is.Push pin down until it is just starting to be seen through the axle then slide in the bearing and shims (shms should be betwwen the spindle and bearing not between axle and bearing.Now if you have a spare old kingpin then push this through the bottom of the spindle to line up the shims and bearing but be careful not to damage the shims as they are quite delicate.Once lined up pull the old kingpin out and push the new one all the way home whilst being carefull.Check for up and down play again.if up and down play is ok you may still have some side to side,this won't go away untill you tighten your cotter pin up.The cotter pin nut acts as a stop for your steering lock it may or may not be the correct type and you may have to make something up.I don't know if you will understand my confused explaination i know what i mean but i hope it helps you...............Marq
     
  3. marq
    Joined: Aug 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,423

    marq
    Member

    p.s yes the cotter pin is going in too deep,the cotter pin must go through the axle and out the other side by about half inch enough to get a nut and washer on,when the cotter pin is tight full up it needs to be flush with the axle.total length of a ford cotter pin is 2 1/8 inches so the smaller one looks to be correct............Marq
     
  4. meangreen
    Joined: Jan 13, 2005
    Posts: 46

    meangreen
    Member

    Flathead Youngin,
    It looks like SuperBell may have drilled the lock-pin holes just a bit too large or they may have drilled them off location slightly. Just a few thousandths of an inch can make a big difference in how the lock-pin fits. The easiest way to solve the problem is to grind or file new notches on the kingpins. Note where the existing notches are and make new notches on the oposite side slightly shallower. Take off a little at a time and keep trial fitting the kingpin and lock-pin into the axle until you get it right.
    The other option is to build up the thickness of the lock-pin by running a weld bead along the flat side and then grinding or filing it smooth, but leaving it a bit thicker than it was.

    Marq,
    Excellent explanation of kingpin insallation.
     
  5. Here's about where the lockpin should end up.
    Unpainted SuperBell 4" dropped beam axle.

    The black 4" dropped SuperBell tubular axle on my 32 has the lockpin in the same place.
    Hard to see, but maybe it will help.

    It sounds very much like the kinpin notch is too deep.
    Got another one you could compare with?
     

    Attached Files:

  6. Flathead Youngin'
    Joined: Jan 10, 2005
    Posts: 3,666

    Flathead Youngin'
    Member


    Thanks for all the advice guys.........

    After I've thought about it, those pins (two different sets: regarding length) may NOT even be the right ones for a Ford. I'm gonna guess they are for something else and try to get an old one out from a REAL Ford axle and compare......

    I, yep, ***umed they were right. However, this ole' fella mixes things up sometimes..... I think his memory is slipping......seriously! :)

    I'll post back what I figured out.....

    Either wrong pins or the holes were drilled too big from the factory (doubtful)....
     
  7. Flathead Youngin'
    Joined: Jan 10, 2005
    Posts: 3,666

    Flathead Youngin'
    Member


    yes, thanks.....good info!
     
  8. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,760

    alchemy
    Member

    That kingpin does look fairly long on the bottom. And I've never seen a set that had a groove in them for the grease like that. Does it have the top hat thing like normal? It looks kind of "Chevy" to me.
     
  9. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Hmmm--I've never paid much attention to these, just bought the right ones from Joblot and putemin...guess i better start paying attention now that NOS ones are hard to get!
    The parts book and service bulletins lack clear specs on these. The drawing seems to show a groove like that on the 21A type, but it is just a sketch and that could be an atifact...
    Add to research list: comparative lengths of kingpins for different years. At least all the diameters are the same, though I'd sure worry about that too if buying from Streetrod sources.
    Keep your eyes peeled for old sets from respectable aftermarket companies at the swaps!
     
  10. Flathead Youngin'
    Joined: Jan 10, 2005
    Posts: 3,666

    Flathead Youngin'
    Member



    Ok, ok, I should have checked before coming on here it was pretty simple! It's simply the wrong swedge pin.

    I put a caliper on the part that is protruding from a stock axle (like in C9's pic) and then compared that to both pins I have.........the NOS ones are about a 1/16" smaller in diameter. So, I went forward without even questioning the diameter of the pins until about 2am last night when it dawned on me.

    It's hard to say what these fit.......I'll rob a set out of another axle or order a new set......

    thanks again!

    I think you spell *****, M-O-R-O-N.......correct me if I'm wrong.....
     
  11. DICK SPADARO
    Joined: Jun 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,887

    DICK SPADARO
    Member Emeritus

    This seemed to be an interesting question so lets give it a try. First from the picture of the king pin locks they do not appear to be for a Ford. Ford king pin locks are characterized by tapered parallel grooves that run the length of the body. The body measures about .550" in diameter and has a v taper key groove starting about .175" wide at the threads and enlarging to about .230". The groove allows the king pin lock taper to seat in the v groove of the king pin. When installed and tightened thus locks the king pin in position and prevents it from turning during operation. It is important that the king pin not turn as it will wear the king pin boss and create a loose spindle. By locking the king pin in place the spindle now is free to turn on the spindle bearing and bushings. Grooves in the king pin are not uncommon due to different manufacturers, they were used to help dissipate grease for lubrication. Because your king pin lock falls thru so far it appears that they are the wrong ones and unlikely the axle drilled out incorrectly. To identify your king pins, the distance from the bottom of the king pin top to the center of the king pin lock is 2.500" on a 37-41 and 2.750" on a 42-48. Remember it is important to set the king pin lock with a hammer blow and not rely on tightening up the nut. Based upon the turning radius you have available with wishbone/tire size clearance you may or may not choose to run the longer steering stop nut. Hope this answers your question.
     
  12. Flathead Youngin'
    Joined: Jan 10, 2005
    Posts: 3,666

    Flathead Youngin'
    Member


    Thanks for the info, ****! I think they are, well I know now, simply NOT for this and they are for something else......

    I used a set of calipers and measured one went to one of my old axles. It had just a little bit of the pin protruding out, and I measure it. The original Ford was about a 1/16" larger in diameter than the TWO different kinds of pins I got off of my buddy.

    I'd guess they are for the later Ford truck king pins...he plays with them too. But, I don't know this to be true....

    thanks again.....good info to know
     

  13. Marq,

    Where did you get this information?? Because it's wrong :eek: . Otherwise, your post was great and contained good info.

    I'm in the middle of a project changing my '38 from round back to square back spindles. Already had a couple of sets of round back king pins in stock. Knew they were too short.

    Called up **** Spadaro Early Ford Reproductions to order a set of new pins. First thing he asks is what spindles I'm using. Told me I needed longer king pins for the square back spindles.

    It's ironic that **** has made a post here about the lock pins and difference in king pin lengths. He must've not seen your post, otherwise I think he might've corrected you.
     

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