Ford shoebox rear-end question

Hey, shoebox guys,

I have a question I'm sure you know the answer to:

I'm building a '49 Club Coupe, early-'50s style--low but not too low. (Think of the Ed Fahlsing car on the cover of the 1957 Custom Car Annual, or in the January 1955 Car Craft--probably lower than that, but not too much.)

I know I need to do some frame work in the back, so lemme ask you: do I need to C it for more travel, or can I just get away with notching it? (I like how Ford stopped boxing it right at the top of the rear kick-up. I'll have to fix that in any case.)

What do you guys say? I'm running a Ford 9-inch with drum brakes; stock 15-inch steel wheels with 6.70-15 Firestones, and mono-leafs. And again, I'm not going to be laying frame. This ain't a mini-truck.

School me.

Thanks!

 

Wow, nobody has anything to say? Amazing!

 

I notched mine enough to put the bumpstops slightly above where the bottom of the rail was... i scrape on even moderate driveways..thats all i would do, a notch a little less than half the frame depth. i have about 2" free travel with 3" blocks and a few leafs out of the stock springs.
Are you running skirts? if so, run 14" wheels with smaller tyres, that will give you another 1 1/2" pretty easily.

 

One thing to watch for when really lowering shoeboxes is the driveshaft hump. 51's have a deeper hump than 49 and 50. We had our 51 so low it actually rubbed the hump. 2 inch blocks and dearched springs. Pat.

 

This is great, guys!

I'm stuck on running 15-inch wheels, but I realize I'm going to have to cut out my driveshaft hump in the back. I'll probably have to do a lot of work back there.

Thanks!

 

Hey, Theo

Just for reference, my '51 is lowered in the rear with 3-inch springs and 1-inch blocks. My frame is not notched for clearance, and it only bottoms if I have people in the back seat. You may be going lower than mine, and may have a different requirement.

On the other hand, changing rear tires is a bitch. I'm running 215R75-15s on 6" rims, so a bit wider than stock, and they DON'T want to come out from between the drums and the wheel well. Don't overlook this issue while you're choosing the bits for your build.

Tony

 

oh yeh i forgot that bit..I have to disconnect the shocks to allow the rear to drop to get the wheels out...not fun on the side of the road, but thats the price you pay! my driveshaft tunnel is raised maybe two inches as well (its a 51)

 

I have 4" blocks in my 49 and one spring removed. It never bottoms out.

 

This is all good stuff!

I've always figured I'll have trouble changing my rear tires, but that's cost of looking good.