Technical Ford SMOD column shift

I've finally sourced a SMOD side mount overdrive transmission. Guy wants 400 bucks for it..... thought that is steep.

I have a 69 Galaxie 390 (RAT CODE) 3 speed toploader in my '59 Galaxie right now, colum shifted. I really like the column shift (this ain't no muscle car!) And would like to have all 4 forward gears on the column. Reverse can be cable shifted under the dash, as I don't want to pull my column again to fabricate a 3rd shift arm.

Other than the well do***ented 3/4 shift arm having to be upside down, what will I need? I dont have the transmission yet to compare to the '69 toploader I have now.

Thanks!

 

I just gave $800 for a r10 overdrive for my dodge ... 400 is a deal

 

Check the pilot bearing shaft length on the trans input. All of these I've seen have the longer SBF length, these can bottom out on the end of the crank on FEs and I believe Y-blocks. Shortening the shaft length by a 'short' 1/4" will fix it.

 

Some Ford Vans had column shift 4 speeds.. someone here on the HAMB should know...

 

What's an SMOD?

 

I think he meant SCMODS:

 

It's a Ford four speed manual transmission based on the old Toploader design, where 4th is an overdrive.

 

^^^
Not to be confused with the SROD which is also based on the toploader but has an aluminum case and internal shift linkage like a T5. These are to be avoided....

 

Iron case 4 speed top loader. Or called a 3+OD, 4 speed with 4 gear being overdrive. They are not as strong as a real 3 or 4 speed top loader, but my 2bbl 352 is less than 300 hp, just for cruising.

 

So 400 bucks isnt bad for a pulled used unit with unknown miles? Guy said we would have a look see at the gears before the sale was final.

 

Those trans need a steep gear to work properly,when going from second to third is like going from second to fourth in a 4 speed. I had one in a car that had 3,00 gears and when going around 25 to 30 second was not enough and third was too much.

 

I have a Tex-Racing 4 speed where 4th is an OD. Not for street driving. I use it at El Mirage. They will build them anyway you want. Hundreds of gear combinations. I shift without using the clutch, guys say it sounds like an automatic when I change gears. Popular at Pocano yrs ago.

 

The weak point in them is the cluster gear bearings and shaft. The OD puts a considerably larger load on them compared to non-OD applications. Ford recommended NOT using OD if towing or hauling heavy loads in OEM use.

And depending on what it's sourced out of, some gear ratio spreads aren't good.

 

I just ***umed the 1-3 gears were similar to the 3 speed I have now.

I have the "close ratio" or "big block" 3 speed where it just means that 1st is incredibly tall. I'd like a lower 1st and have OD. Looks like the OD trans I'm looking at has a 3.01 first. My current toploader is 2.42.

Thank you for the cluster bearing information. It seems that if all else looks good I can replace the bearings with a $125 rebuild kit. This trans was out of a van, hopefully with a 351. I'm going to pull the trigger on it.

Some engine pics, because we all like those! Adapted a 90Amp Bosch alternator from my VW parts collection.

 

I had one of those, at least an iron case 4 speed o/d, bulge on the side, shift arm upside down. IIRC I did have to shorten the input on a y block and drill and tap 2 of the mounting holes. I'm sure I had to turn down the front bearing retainer to fit the y block bell.

Mine was a 3.21 1st I think. Worked fine in the bird with a 3:31 rear and a 27" or so tire. But it is a big step between the gears. With the torque of a 390 even in a full size car I'd guess it'll be fine.

 

If the input shaft is a little too long you may be able to chamfer the pilot bushing a smidge for clearance.
You don't really need to flip the shift lever over. I installed one a long time ago and couldn't, I don't remember why. You end up with a weird shift "H" pattern, but get used to it quickly.
For the cable operated reverse, you can use an overdrive handle and bracket.
The gears will almost always look good. The parts to look at closely for wear are the synchro teeth on the sides of the gears, especially first and second.

You probably don't want to hear this, but the last one I bought cost me $35 at a swap meet. I didn't need it, but of course I couldn't p*** it up. It came with the shifter too.

 

One thing not mentioned yet that may cause some confusion is which bellhousing do you have? Ford used two transmission patterns from '49 though until the '80s; the '49-64 narrow pattern, and the '65-up wide pattern. They don't directly interchange as-is, but the late trans to the early bell is fairly easily corrected. Not so easy the other way. To check which bell you have without tearing anything apart, look at where the starter attaches.

If there's a short rounded bulge in the bell, it's a '65-up wide pattern bell. No worries on fitting the OD. Check the pilot shaft length and then bolt it in.

If there's a roughly 4" long 'tube' extending back, it's a '58-64 narrow-pattern style and you have some things to change. It could be either bell with the late 3-speed trans as many (but not all) were drilled with both patterns. The OD trans probably won't have the narrow pattern drilled, but there's room to do it as the mounting face stayed the same. These holes need to be reasonably precise. The other change needed will be the front bearing retainer. Ford increased it's diameter between '64 and '65 so the hole in the bell changed also. The late retainer is too large for the early bell but can be turned down. You may find that the front retainer on the three-speed will swap with the OD trans as Ford made both versions, check that out before spending money.

One last thing you may want to look at while you're in there; if you have a late bell you can ignore this. One other change that was made on the bell change was the starter. The '58-64 FE used a long-shaft bendix-type starter. These are getting hard to find, not cheap when you do, and less reliable than the later ones. If you change the ring gear on the flywheel to the '65-up gear, you can then use the cheaper and better late starter. The ring gear is fairly cheap (under $30), it's just the h***le of changing it. While the trans is out is a good time... This may have been done, pull the starter to see which one you have.

 

This thread is full of great information!

Want to sell the $35 unit for $100? Lol

 

I had one in a 300 six powered Econoline van I bought new in 1979.

knocked out the front bearing and countershaft twice in 179k miles.
The trans was introduced in 1979 as an option behind the 300 and 351., but dropped from the 351 the next year, when the 302 became available in the van. It was 300 or 302 only after that, presumably because of durability reasons.
A friend at work had one behind a mildly hopped up 351 in a 78 van. I think he rebuilt his three times in 120k miles.

 

Yep, you don't want to use OD for anything other than cruising with small throttle openings. They don't like loads in OD.

 

For a 4 spd column shift try '63-'64 Ford Econoline van.

 

Thankfully I have the late bell with the wide bolt pattern and the short (push) starter.

The ring gear looks fantastic, which surprised me as the starter is loud for being a direct drive unit.

I've got it all disconnected and fought a bit with the trans support member, broke two welded nuts inside the box frame.

If I have time tonight I'll pull the late model toploader I have in it.

I'll see when I can make the trip to pick up the OD unit and compare them.

All this information has helped me greatly!

 

Came out easily.

I should have the OD unit Friday afternoon to compare.

I'm thinking just an overdrive pull cable wont be enough for the reverse lever. As far as push/pull. Something like an automatic shift cable with a fabricated lever hidden under the dash maybe?

 

Yes, I've watched that one a few times. I wonder what he used for that reverse.

And I'm wicked in love with that dash.

 

Reverse gear in the transmission I’m guessing with a PTO cable with a clamp on the cable near the trans.

 

If you look closely at beginning when he reverses out, he pulls that lever on lower dash rail

 

Yes I like the idea I'm curious what he used for a cable. I ***ume some type of push pull cable like an automatic transmission shift cable. I want to build mine exactly like he did his.

 

Make sure you check the pilot bearing shaft length (the shiny part on yours). If the OD is longer, cut it to the same length or it can bottom out in the crank.