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ford tie rod end specs question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by lowsquire, Jan 18, 2004.

  1. lowsquire
    Joined: Feb 21, 2002
    Posts: 2,567

    lowsquire
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    hey all,
    Im using early ford tie rod ends for my split bones,and having the bungs machined to go in the end, one guy I took it to said if he tapped them 11/16 18tpi NF they would be very loose in the thread,and unsafe, is this because they are desingned to be held in a clamped and therefore slightly crushed sleeve? or are the tierod ends ive got just ****ty and slightly undersize??or is this engineer an idiot? [​IMG]
    I measure the threads at 0.680" on the tierod ive got.
    My other question is what are the specs for the taper to take the stud? someone suggested 1 1/2" per foot..zat sound right? I know the usual thing is to cut up some old spindles ands use the tapered holes...not exactly thick on the ground down here [​IMG]
    any help appreciated, thanks.
     
  2. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,602

    manyolcars

    You can use a jam nut on the tie rod ends. You can drill a hole the size of the small end of the taper and use a carbide burr to do a decent taper.
     
  3. lowsquire
    Joined: Feb 21, 2002
    Posts: 2,567

    lowsquire
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    Thanks, yeh Ive got jam nuts, but the worry is that the poor mating of the threads will let go at some point...not good.
    If you do the taper with a carbide bit I worry you might never get the tierod out again....... [​IMG]
    Maybe i should relax..fukken tight**** vehicle engineer inspectors have me worried.
     
  4. chop32
    Joined: Oct 13, 2002
    Posts: 1,077

    chop32
    Member

    Speedway motors sells what they call a "round shock eye" which is 1 1/4" dia X about 3/4" thick with the correct tapered hole for an early Ford tie rod end for $2.45 each. Ive been using them for years for split wishbones. Part number is 916-36502. They also sell 11/16-18 threaded bungs (RH and LH thread) for $9.95 that work really well.
     
  5. lowsquire
    Joined: Feb 21, 2002
    Posts: 2,567

    lowsquire
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    thanks man, theres my answer..
    $2.45!!
    I was looking at having to buy the tapered reamer-115 bucks!!
    guess ill be waiting by the mailbox.......
     
  6. Hope the postie finds your place!

    [​IMG]
     
  7. I think you found your answer and it is a very good one and economical to boot. [​IMG]

    But FWIW there are different cl***ifications of fit on threads. You can get taps/dies thet cut different sizes to match the cl***ifications.

    The most common is the 2G cl***ification and works for most of everything we wrenchheads do in life but there is/are tighter and looser cl***ifications for external threads (bolts) as well as internal threads (nuts).

    You can acually have the smallest internal thread and the largest external threads and swear that they are never going to go together even though they are the same thread! [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  8. I thought running split 'bones over there was taboo.I was on your board there and a huge debate was/is going on bout why they're so unsafe.Bunch of stonions if you ask me.I tryed tellin em that its been done for years over here and will keep getting done but they seemed to "know it all" and said that it is illegal to run split 'bones over there.
    Get the stuff from speedway,its all good.....Shiny
     
  9. haring
    Joined: Aug 20, 2001
    Posts: 2,335

    haring
    Member

    Hope you don't mind if I piggyback a few questions onto this thread. I am splitting a set of wishbones, too.

    Thanks for the tip about the Speedway shock eyes (pg.11 in the catalog I have). I will buy both the round and triangular and figure out some options on a mounting point on the frame.

    I may use the triangular mount and just put it on the bottom of the frame rail. Or could I weld the round one to the side of the frame rail? I'm not sure where I will need the wishbone rear mounting point yet since I haven't mocked up the stance and rake.

    If I don't feel like making my own bracket, who sells brackets with the proper tapered hole? I'm picturing ones that are a flat plate that would weld to the inside of the frame rail, drop down an inch or two below the frame, and have the tapered hole on the end.

    Also -- possibly a dumb question -- but should I use RH or LH tie rod ends on the bones? Do people generally use the same on both sides? I can't think of a real good reason not to just use two RH. Set me straight.

    Thanks,
    don
     
  10. You can buy the taper hole plates from Speedway too.RH is fine for both sides.
    I have my taper hole bung welded in my frame to get my caster right.......Shiny
     
  11. haring
    Joined: Aug 20, 2001
    Posts: 2,335

    haring
    Member

  12. lowsquire
    Joined: Feb 21, 2002
    Posts: 2,567

    lowsquire
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    God I wish there was a speedway distributor here!!(maybe a business opportunity in that)
    Shiny, I know what you mean,you have to realise that the draconian hot rod rules here have made streetrod sheep out of nearly everyone,its amazing but the main reason everyone is so anti split bones is because the beurocrats said so!
    I read the thread you are reffering to, it was pretty pathetic.
    My theory is build your car as you want, then work out the stupid registration ****.any compromises I make will be pulled off the car post registration and put in my friends 15 ton power hammer and ****ing mangled.
    I shouldnt get started...I wont stop.
    Haring, your right ,either thread will work,dont matter at all.
     

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