Projects Ford Truck Build ++PICS++

i maybe wrong
but i thought it was
primary _long lining -to the rear
secondary -short lining -to the front

 

oh sorry guess that shouldn t have been my first post
love the build and your energy level
you are makin me feel lazy
keep up the good work

 

Martin you have really made some serious progress on that build. All your work looks really good for your first time.

I wish I had half of the motivation that you do and my coupe would at least be standing on its own.

 

Don't know, which one is called primary and with one secondary, but as long as the short one is pointing towards the front, everything should be ok.

Thanks for your kind words, I do what I can.
And I am really happy, how my wife supports my on this project!!!
That's the real reason why I do have so much progress...

So here is todays work on my interpretation of Dreadmans steering system (not much though):








I am kinda concerned, that the position is bad...
Looks to me like a need a steeper angle on the column. But I'll finish the whole system first, so I really see how everything works together and then decide what to change.

sorry for the blurry pictures, light wasn't this good today...
I also missed taking a pic of the finished brakes.
Will post it on Monday, so someone can please confirm that I have all the right parts now

 

Alright, here we go.
This is what my brakes look like now that everything is installed (at least I hope so)



without flash:


Does that look complete to you?? They are 53 to 56 Ford Brakes.
If so, please give me a thumbs up!!

So I can install the drums and get the front end on the car again...


I also changed the grease fittings to those angled ones, so I have access.

 

Looks right, you are ready to put it on the truck...... two thumbs up!!!!

 

Thumbs up on the brakes. Looking great! I look forward to seeing it all back on the truck.

 

Great thanks for keeping us posted. We spoke before about your spacers, I am using them too, for 35 wires to buick in front (see my avatar) and late model drums in the rear. On your spacer I see a little lip on the inside edge of the face that will mate to the wire wheel. What is that for?

I personally am having BIG reservations about using this set up. I am worried that added force, from moving the wheel out, will be placed on the smaller outer bearing and cause problems. And if the wheel does not mate to the adapter, the weight and stress will also be on the lugs in shear rather than tension.

Sorry for the unsolicited concern.

JJ

 

Great build. I am enjoying learning from what everyone is doing on their projects. Keep up the great posts!

My guess is the lip is to help position the wheel. Usually there is a hub to rim fit that does that (atleast on modern stuff and the older things I have seen in pieces). With the spacer, the original fit was lost and maybe the lip on the spacer is supposed to replace the fit.

The way lugs were explained to me was that they act as a clamp. The sheer force is between the hub and rim. If I understand that right, the lugs don't see sheer force.

Other thoughts?

curiousity possibly getting me in trouble:
From what I have seen, those adjusters are for non-adjusting brakes. If the holes are in the shoes, could the adjusters be changed and the spoons used to make the brakes self adjusting?

My observations. For what they are worth.

Scott

 

Thanks guys, that's what I wanted to hear!!

 

I see what you are saying, and you are right.
It is not the best wheel setup. But it's the price to pay if you want to run wire wheels with more modern brakes...

The lip on the spacer is to give the wheel extra support, so it is not only kept in place by the studs. When I did the first mock up of the assembly, I found that there is a 1/2" or even bigger gap between the beckside of the wheel and the hub, when using this spacer.
So down the road, I'll try to make this gap as small as possible, to move the wheel back in, and get a better geometry again.

I don't think there is any other solution for this problem...
Any input will be highly appreciated

Scott, when you talk about lugs, do you mean the studs, that the spacer (or the wheel) actually bolts to??

 

I was talking specifically about the studs the wheel bolts to. I think it might be applicable for both studs the wheel bolts to and the studs the spacer bolts to.

Scott

 

These rings only centers the wheels, because the 40 to 48 drums dont have this lip to support the wheel. But I'd still have the issue, that the back side of the rim hits the drum first, before I have contact on the bolt surface.

I think it would work on 40 to 48 drums, because they also have a different shape (the surface where the wheel bolts to is raised)

But lets think about this disc brake conversion... anyone ever seen 35 wires on discs??

 

I have a friend that is running 1930 21" wires with a speedway discs kit and spacers on his 34 truck. Speed way also has a disc set up that has a 5 on 5 1/2 bolt pattern.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Complete-5-1-2-Inch-Disc-Brake-Kit-for-Early-Ford,1997.html

 

Thanks for the pics, thats exactly what I was looking for!
But I think I'll stay with the drums...

Haven't been able to do a lot of work for my truck.
One thing I did was painting my new valve covers:


Thanks Dan, I love them!!

Hope to get the steering column done this week...

 

Nice progress.

 

Sorry, didn't want to show you our dirty carpet ;-)


Thanks Root, not to much though...

 

I got them from Dan Marvin (dmarv) from Exeter www.exeterautosupply.com
The're HAMB Vendor also ;-)

 

Nice post, nicely done truck.

You can get the hood line where you want by laying down several long pieces of 3/4" masking tape from cowl to grille shell.

Here's an example of an incorrect - front too high - hood line.


Same setup out in the sunlight.



Looking from here, your seat/steering ergonomics look ok.
Here's a couple pics that may help.




I'm 6'0" and have a 32" inseam.

4" recessed firewall fwiw.




I'm bothered a bit by the thick wheel adapter.

It will add quite a bit of load to the outer bearing.

As well as add to the steering effort.

The only wheel bearing I ever lost was on a 63 Chevy pickup that had a set of 8" wide steelies all around.
During the era of the "Can-Am" look.

They were standard Chevy 6 lug wheels and were widened by cutting apart and welding in a piece of steel.
Ended up much like a reversed wheel.

When I stuck a set of the right size mag wheels on the truck I was amazed at how much easier it steered.

If you set on running wires the aftermarket has good looking wire wheels that are new and you wouldn't have the problems you're running up against.

I'd hate to see you lose a wheel while driving.

Trad is not coming to a sliding stop and watching your wheel go down the road by itself....

 

Thanks for your post, Sir!
I am concerned about the wheel spacers too.
That's why I am trying to mock up the whole front suspension now,
to see what the clearance between the drum and the wheel will be...
I might be able to reduce the spacer thickness about 0.5 to 0.75 of an inch,
due to the hump of the brake drum.
Yeah, I know, my explanation sucks... will post a pic of what I am talking about...

Anyways, here is the "little progress" pics:



The tube for my steering column... now there is only the keyways and threads missing, to install the column.

I have a question about the radiator setup. Last week I started building some mounts for my radiator to clear the waterpump hoses to the mechanical fan.
Everything looked good so far, but since I am trying to get the radiator as far back as possible I am not sure whats the min. clearance between the radiator and the fan.

About .75 inch would look best locationwise. Is that to close??

 

3/4" radiator to fan should be okay, as long as everything is tight. I don't even know if I have that much on my 37.

 

Great thread. Great build. Very cool

 

Yeah, I figured 3/4" should be enough.
I ended up with about 5/8"...
Here are the pics:









Don't worry, I'll close them ;-)



As we already discussed here earlier, I was trying to move the radiator up a little to have the fan centered and enough space for the waterhoses when they move while driving.
I also moved the radiator back, you were right Dave, it should work out better this way.

Also the 36 truck grille that I am using is really deep, so almost the whole fan could be covered by the grille. Thats how far back I could probably move it.
I have to get the front end on it though, to get the ride height and everything figured out, to decide about the grill position. (Still looking for a new brake drum)

I also put the shifter in, to get an idea about the floor...




It's gonna be tight ;-)

 

I had to weld the bolts to the radiator mount, so I'll only be able to run the pads inbetween but no spring bolts... But otherwise I wouldn't be able to tighten the screws.

Got some work done today:
Finally she is rolling again. I installed the new 4" dropped axles and my new brakes.


The spring looks pretty compressed, is that normal, or would I have to get another spring with a different springrate??


And then I also tried the grill:






Now I have to see how everything lines up...

Just feels amazing to see it with four wheels again

 

Thx Dave, it's not as low as I expected it though...

Yes, I got a bed from Norby, took him only 3 weeks, I was really surprised but happy about that!! I was planning on doing work to it when we got our own house...
Hope it's happening soon!!! Bed looks really good, what I have seen so far. And I heared the assembly is pretty easy too...

Dave from "house of fab" is coming by tonight, so we can take a look at the frame, where I'd like to mount the gas tank. When everything works out, he'll hopefully build me a custom gas tank. That's gonna be really cool ;-)

Looking forward to when you guys come over to check it out!!

 

looks gooooooooooooood!

 

Looking good Martin,wish i was that far along with mine.Just got back
from vacation so i can get back to work on my truck now.

 

Thanks guys!!
I am so excited about my truck right now, it's great!!
That's exactly the feeling that I need to have it driveable by next April to go to the Round Up!!

Worked on the drivers door today. Needed some treatment after the chop ;-)






The roof will be next.

I also put the hood back on, and found that the big block doesn't consume as much space as I thought...
Although I'll have to add about 3 inches to the hood.


I also opened another thread where you're invited to help me decide the right grill height:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4208170#post4208170

Thx for looking

 

Thanks for the photochop, Dave!
Looks like I might move the grill back one more inch also ;-)
I don't know about trimming the grill, I kinda like the "snowplow" look of it:


But you're right, it would look cleaner, more than a 34 grill.
Guess thats something I'll have to decide down the road...

Looks like I have to section the grill first!!

 

Damn, you are right, it looks good!!!
I hate it, when I have to think about stuff that I didn't want to think of

Just kidding, thanks for your help Dave!

BTW: Maybe the hood wouldn't look as long, when everything is black, I don't konw...