A couple days ago I ordered the LAST Superbell 46” axle Speedway had. Chromed, which I hadn’t planned on, but I couldn’t find one raw anywhere. I found a pair of chrome wishbones, which were stated to have “...not flawless...” chrome, but are not bad. I’d say 5’. I then read a post from a fellow in the UK who bought a fresh built coupe with one of the cheap axles, who's having to replace it with a forged unit. He wasn't aware of the difference (he didn't build it) and was asking how it could be straightened, as it obviously had WAY negative camber. Several people ignored the fact it was cast, and said it could be straightened, obviously there a lot of people who don't know the difference and support the sellers of this cheap, dangerous junk. I could have gotten a cheap one, but know better. It was quite a coincidence to read that thread after searching for a forged one for a couple of days, settling on a chrome one as it was all I could find. I'm really glad I stepped up for the "fancy" one, it'll make my car stand tall. Validated my stepping up. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I had one of the Superbell Iron axles in my RPU and i replaced it with So Cal forged. In NZ we have regulations that stop those iron one being used without being tested(costs a lot) as there have been a few fail. JW
This one is advertised by Speedway as forged. I would think they have to represent products accurately. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Sorry but to me that looks just like all the other Superbell cast axles. The new Pete & Jakes forged axles have a different shape. Maybe Speedway mis-represented? A call to Superbell should straighten this out.
Hang the axle by one end, such as with heavy wire. Then tap axle with a hammer. Forged will ring. Cast will thud, damping out the ringing. Test is called a ring test, for obvious reasons, and is easy way to verify forged vs cast. Being chrome plated, the parting line is probably ground smooth. If not ground, cast will be thin like 1/16 or 1/8 inch max. Forged will be 1/4 inch or more. Sent from dumb operator on a smart phone
Never mind what the Speedway ad promises, do the "bell test" on your axle as 38 chevy 454 suggests. My shop teacher used this test to find a crack in a forged 350 Pontiac crankshaft, he held the crank up by the rear flange smacking the counterweights one-by-one with a BFH resulting in a bing, bing, bing, bonk, bing. I didn't think it would find a crack but it did.
I was happy with the dropped forged axles I purchased from Ch***is Engineering but alas they don't exist anymore. HRP
And occasionally they find yet another name to try to sell **** under when buyers figure out it's just Hoffman under another name.
I hope so. https://www.peteandjakes.com/parts/...i-beam-axle-47-king-pin-2-perch-boss-drilled/ The pic of the forged axle on the P&J website shows a squarer corner on the inset area, up near the king pin boss. Just like I remember the Ch***is Engineering axles used to be. The pic of your axle shows a nice round corner on the inset area near the king pin boss. Just like I remember the cast Superbell axles to be. You be the judge.
Your perch bolts look like the cast stainless ones that regularly fail. I'd throw them away and get a set of Ford perch bolts.
How can parts like this be cast and sold legally ??? tjere is a place for cast , but suspension parts is not the place !! just yesterday at work had a customer overload an 18,000 lbs Toyota and bounced the *** end. The rear frame is cast and cracked ! Call Toyota they “ upgraded the rear frame, $50,000 bucks ! Yes $50,000 truck cost just shy of 70 !! got my welder coming Monday to look at it and see if he can weld it up. cast should not be used in any kind of critical spot and how this **** can be sold baffles my mind .
My advice to others has always been to use a forged axle. Cast may look pretty, but will not withstand the twist of suspension movement. There are many examples like the post above where a cast axle broke, yet guys are still using them.