I've posted a few threads on here over the past few months asking about specific trucks I'm thinking about buying. Got another one for you guys. This one is a 1958 Chevy Apache. The mileage is unknown, and it is currently not drive-able because of a leaky master cylinder. I've already looked at it in person, it has a 283 which was actually dealer installed when it was first purchased (from what the owner tells me). This one has a 4 barrel Holley Carb that he says they stopped making in the 70s. HEI ignition, 3 speed. The body is really straight, not too much rust. Interior is pretty rough. There is a dealer installed heater inside but he says it has never been wired up so he doesn't know if it works. Is there anything else I should check out before buying this truck? From the research I've done I've found that the majority says the 283 is a reliable motor and can get about 20 mpgs if tuned right. Is this accurate? Anything I should know about the transmission/suspension? The trans/suspension are my main concerns, I plan on making this a daily so I want it to be fairly reliable. I don't want (and can't due to school and work) to have to do any major work to this truck until at the summer at least. He's going to check the compression for me today, what should it be? I've already heard the motor and it sounded pretty good, a little smoke when he revved it up but it didn't look too bad. He also said the fuel gauge may not work, is that an easy fix? Where can I get a new master cylinder? The drivers side window is cracked, where is the best place for some new glass? Any other input you guys can offer me would be appreciated.
It's a truck. I see nothing rough about the interior. That's a killer truck. The only question should be whether you can afford it and if not, what could you sell to afford it.
Just glancing at the pics, I'd suggest you completely ignore the stories the seller tells you. You should be able to get a master cylinder kit, if not a rebuilt master cylinder, from a local parts store, although they might have to order it over night. Look for signs of rust repair in the lower doors, door hinge area of the cab, lower part of front fenders, lower rear cab corners, etc. If it's been bondo'd a lot then you might want to think twice about it. Most of these trucks have had some rust repair, they rust out in those places even around here. But some are really bad. Expect to have to do some work on the rest of the brake system, at least replace the rubber hoses and wheel cylinders, and pack the front wheel bearings. Also check all the fluids, and lube the suspension, there are about a bajillion grease fittings on these things. It'll keep you busy, but it should be a fun learning experience, and you'll find plenty of help here on the hamb. Neat truck
Yeah, check the doors and back of the cab like he said. It is typical to see either a repair or rust. Not many without it in those areas. The truck will be easy to work on and even if the entire brake system was screwed your not looking at alot of money. I have started with alot less before. The exterior looks good enough to make a nice driver while you focus on some of the other issues. Good luck
one more thing...the "smokes a little bit when revving it up", means the engine is worn out...you can drive it, but it'll burn some oil, and eventually will need to be overhauled.
Thanks for the quick replies guys. The cab corners and floorboards have had rust repair already. He says some bondo was used on the cab corners. Most of this work wasn't done that well but it looked decent. The inside of the cab corners wasn't repaired from what he told me, but I couldn't see how bad it was for myself. If I'm looking to make this into a daily he tells me I'd have to look into hardened seats and stainless valves to make it reliable on unleaded. Is this true? And how much money would this cost (parts only)? On the smoke, it wasn't that much and only smoked when he initially revved it up. It also had been sitting for a month. No chance that an oil change with some marvel will clean that up?
It's hard to say how long the valve seats will last. But with the engine smoking a bit, you'll be better off rebuilding the whole engine at once. Figure at least a grand if you just buy parts and get the machine work done, and put the engine together yourself...double or triple that (at least) to have the whole job done by a shop. Oil, normal or snake type, will not repair worn out parts.
It will tell you if something is really wrong with some of the cylinders. Look for the numbers to be all around 125 psi, if there is more than 10-15 psi difference then it is leaking somewhere. But the engine can be mostly worn out and still have relatively good compression. I used to work at a junkyard, we had two criteria for a used engine to be "good": no smoke, and consistent compression. We guaranteed those engines, and charged more for them.
What color is the smoke? If the truck has beening sitting for awhile its likely it can be condensation. From what I can tell the truck looks to be in decent shape..its hard going by just pix on the computer. What is he asking for it? Is it a fair price?
Yeah I should know that smoke is a bad sign, just in denial I guess. Really have to think hard about this one. I have a '60 Harley that takes up enough of my time as it is and I haven't had time for that with work and school. I'm looking for something that will at least last til the summer, then I can work on it. If it did need any major work I do have a good mechanic who does work for at a great price. Lots of thoughts going around. Is $3500 a good price for this truck?
I think it is a fair price at $3500 as it looks like it is decent condition wise,if you get it you might do a first oil change substituting 1 Qt of Marvel Mystery Oil for 1 Qt of oil this should free up any gunk and may restore some of the compression till you do the rebuild.When you do your rebuild you could just use 305 heads which already have the hardened seats and are available for low bucks,the cost of upgrading the 283 heads would cost you more in machine work.As far as lasting till summer I don't think thats an issue the old 283's can run almost forever with good maintainence.
Loved my 283! 18-19 mpg (with the stock 2 bbl) before shitty gas came in. Bought some time with valve guide seals, then rebuilt it. I agree that Marvel Mystery is great stuff, and in all of my cars. Work the guy over a little for the price - times are tough! Flat side glass should be easy at a local shop, but the front and rear for that truck could be a challenge. Good luck!
good price, but right on it. You want to sell the harley so you can go through the 58 ? Run a magnet over it & check bondo .you can buy the cab corners.check the inside steps .
Very cool truck. These are getting more and more popular with the rodding public, from what I've seen at events lately. Just about every part is available and relatively cheap for these trucks from a variety of vendors (LMC,Brothers, Classic Parts, Tuckers, etc). Side glass is simple flat glass, easy to source. I just picked up new side vent window glass for my TF truck. They are very easy to work on, tons of good used parts out there too. Check the frame to make sure it's in good shape, with no major wows or hokey ass repairs. If it checks out ok, everything else is cake.
Really appreciate everyones input. The frame looked good from what I saw a few days ago. I'm pretty sure I'm going to buy it, the only thing that concerns me is that I don't know if I'll be able to drive it before I buy it cause of that master cylinder. That kinda worries me, I'd like to see it go down the road before I buy it. As much as I hate when my bikes down, I love it when it runs. Don't think I'll sell it anytime soon.
You should be able to get the brakes working by adding brake fluid and possibly bleeding. Then you'll see how bad the leak is. Although sometimes the m/c will get so gunked up that it will get stuck with the piston all the way in, and then you need to pull it apart and fix it.
He says he's gonna try and do that for me. I'll report back once all is said and done. Thanks again for the replies.
3500 is on the high side..... especially if the engine is worn out. 2500- 2800 would be a fair offer in my opinion...spend the other grand on a good salvage yard motor.
truckandcarshop.com will have every part you need for the truck. Good prices and good quality, especially patch panels.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=447466&page=9 check this for what you are going to be looking for as far as bondo.... this thing is full of pictures of hidden crap, especially pages 5-9 and I hate truckandcarshop, they have screwed me on multiple orders and the management could care less about customer service. I usually get my stuff from classicparts.com They will match truckandcarshop (if they are lower, which isnt always the case) for anything and their quality is as good as truckandcarshop, if not better. Plus they ship for a lot less and actually take care into packing their boxes.
Be sure to check the area over the top of the windshield. Look at the inside of the cab, where the visors and rear view mirror bolt in. Mice like to build nests in between the outer and inner roof skins, causing the inner roof to rust out. Sometimes the rust will go down the front windshield pillars, too. #*&@%@!*%#ing MICE !!!!!!!
got the compression results back about a week ago. 105 was the lowest, highest 120, most were around 110-115. don't remember the exact numbers. he wasn't able to get the brakes working for me to take it on a short drive, says the m/c wont pump. since i wasn't able to drive it i offered him 3 flat. been almost a week and all he has said was he really doesn't want to sell it so he doesn't want to go down on the price. thinking of just doing the 3500, but i really would like to drive it to make sure the trans/engine is in decent condition. dunno what to do..
It's a 50/ 50 shot. Driving it would be the best scenario before buying, but you have to remember you are buying an old truck. Consider the unknown condition of the tranny, steering and rear-end since you can't drive it. Personally, I don't know many people that would let a truck sit due to a cheap and easy master cylinder fix.
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