Technical Four Speed Muncie Tech Info

Funny I never had a problem with mine.... Just gotta learn how to jam!!!...

 

Come on Gene, you can say it, Chevy...I gotta say you have the most severe Chevy phobia ever seen....LOL.
As a yout I had no problem tearing up a Muncie behind a stock 327/300 ...

 

Not to be a stick-in-the-mud,,


If I am wrong and the poster is the author, I will edit this

I checked and I was wrong

 

I wasn't banging, haha, I was just driving.

 

Anybody with a Muncie and not happy about it, pack it up. I'll take it.
I'll even pay shipping to make it painless for you.

 

Keeping all mine Thanks

 

The only one I have is a 2 speed.

 

Sone people can shift, some can't..we all have that friend that makes you cringe...

Additionally, there is a torque rating in design, exceeding that by 2x...yeah gonna cause some issues. Buy a racing trans for $3k.

Auto Gear site has complete HD trans $2100 and up.

 

I've got a shift knob available for a Muncie fan.......

 

The M-21 in my 34 coupe is getting a bit noisy so I bought a bargain basement M-20 as a back up. Got it apart and the refresher kit bought and now it's so damned cold in my garage I can't work out there. This is the M21

 

And many a Mopar went to the boneyard with a good driveline in what was left of a swiss cheese rusted body / chassis !

 

Same here....plowed 150ft driveway... cold as heck, no heat in my shop yet... Munice build gonna wait.

 

I sold a quick change 2 speed trans..went to Sweden... you could change the ratio. Cool idea Doug Nash. Very short as well. Internals were based on Muncie Trans.

 

That looks very much like a pull knob that controls the PTO cable on a Muncie truck power take off.
I installed many of these while working as a truck mechanic many years ago.


Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.

 

I will be rebuilding my m-21 soon. I think it will be fine behind the 427 as long as I don't put slicks on the car. The mopar 833 trans was way better and stronger. They made muncie to mopar adaptors but not the other way around. With some work on the 833 either slick shifting or full crash box they could shift as good as a muncie if not better. Many a 833 input shaft was destroyed by removing some of the input shaft. Any early pro stock including Jenkins ran the mopar trans and dana 60 rear end. Most of the GM drive train in the muscle car era was weak compared to mopar. I own both so I know. The richmond trans is not that much stronger. The weak piece is the small first gear. I broke mine in no time. Most after market racing manuals can only handle 600-800 hp. The tremec takes work to make it handle some good power. The best all around shifting trans that can handle big power is by far the G-Force. They can handle 1200 hp with options to handle more. I had one in my coupe. It was just perfect and very quiet. The best I ever owned. They don't come cheap. Upgrading can cost more like a magnesium case; full roller; polished gears etc. All worth it.

 

If you rebuild a Muncie , first step should to Bush the countergear bore , I have seen more Muncie failures caused by the counter gear & mainshaft/ input shafts pushing away from each other. Shells the input & front counter gear ever time . The other thing that happens with a Loose counter gear shaft is the shaft spins , further damaging the case , front & rear.

 

Call autogear & put an m-23 in it. That will live ..

 

i never heard of them. please tell me more.

 

Autogear.net is the best I can do for you , I'm old , I type with one finger , I've never learned to post a link . Sorry . they manufacture everything for muncies .Plus they've re-engineered the whole thing , cases, mid plates , side covers , tailstock & everything inside ..

 

Jeez, just google Autogear...They will sell you a brand new Muncie ready to install ,better than original, for $1700. And why fuck around with fucked up cases. Have you priced the machine work to bush the case countershaft bores? Do you or the machine shop know the original shaft center lines? Auto gear will sell you a new stronger than orginal case for 300 bucks shipped. They do sell on ebay

 

cool. thanks. i will look them up.

 

Myself & a retired machinist friend have bushed about a dozen cases over the years , we've indexed the bore center off the rear shaft bore , to the best of my knowledge all are still in use , trouble free . AFA expense , its nice to have friends ! No need to be flippant...

 

@racer-x - I'm really happy with the Autogear Super 22 in the Chevy.
2.56 1st gear

 

I'm still running my Muncie from my a/mp car in the 60's ,55 Chevy with tunnel ram 427 but now it is another 55 I have with a tuned port on a early 327.Ground every other tooth off sync back then still have it in the car.

 

Muncie Service Parts. Is there a location to list rebuild info. Amazing parts & complete trans availability. More affirdable parts available now than 40yr ago.
https://m.thegearbox.org/

https://www.allstategear.com/default.asp

 

Well, unfortunately I don't know any retired machinists with tools. There's many small shops in this rural area but none wanted to repair the case. I understand they are busy, set up time and all that...I did find a guy that said he could do it no problem...Nice looking job but it was off center so the tranny was noisy...He said both ends were worn so he did the best he could do.....This has happened to me several times with different shops....The cost was 150 bucks...

 

Its good to have nice , old , smart , talented friends

 

My uncle had an M21 years ago in his '69 Z/28. Car had been a drag car for years before he got it. It used to whine and howl because of a loose main shaft. Had it rebuilt once which helped, but it was still noisy. Ran a Hurst vertical gate shifter on the street with it, too! He eventually sold it in favor of a Richmond six speed which greatly improved the driveability of the car, but he really misses that v gate!

 

Thinking of putting a Gear Vendors behind the muncie

 

Just dropped mine off at the shop in Santa Fe Springs, on wednesday. Nothing was broken, it was just worn. Found out some interesting things...Was always told the M22 has "straight-cut" gears. Not true...M21 has 45deg teeth, the M22 has 22deg teeth. Somebody used silicone at the imput shaft, which clogs the little notch that sends the oil back into the case. He also said NOT to use synthetic oil in it. Eats up the yellow metals. 90w GL4 only. Some of the teeth were chipped from hard shifting. 1st and 2nd gears were good enough to tune up. 3rd needed to be replaced. So, $350 plus parts. Looks like about $700-$800. There's 45 Muncies ahead of mine, so about 2-3weeks.