Since there is conversations ongoing about brakes, I have a question about my pedal travel. I have Granada front disks and 98 explorer rear disk brakes on my Vicky. No power brakes just manual. When I press on the pedal I get about 35% travel before hard brakes. My master cylinder is a 1" bore. I've yet to put the car on the street and wonder if I can be comfortable with what I have until I upgrade to power brakes. I have about 80% of the parts for hydroboost, but don't want to get into that project just yet. So what is the thought on my pedal travel. too much, or ok?
Are you sure there is not some air in the system? Different bore diameter can make more or less pressure (hard or soft pedal) but it should not effect pedal travel that much unless it was way too small (like 5/8"). One inch is a pretty common size. I would look at bleeding them again. I was thinking about a few other questions, how much pedal room is left? When you push down on the pedal is there anything there as far as resistance? Maybe your pushrod is too short and not doing anything for the first 25% or something.
Talked to NascarDave today and pretty much have all my questions answered. The rear brakes still have the junkyard pads which need to be changed. I have a little too much clearance there from wear, and possibly some air in the lines. It's hard to think there is still air in the lines since I've bled them twice, once in reverse, however. There is no play in the pushrod, It's one of the many things I checked before asking questions. I think after I change the pads and drive it some, I'll be ok with what I have for the time being.
Just for reference...I was told the Granada discs needed a 1 1/8 dia. bore. I'm wondering if you need a residual valve, although I believe those are for disc/drum. Also I'm curious...NascarDave isn't the Dave at Drop'nStop is he?
Yes that's Dave, a good guy, always willing to help. I'm using the valve from a 4 wheel disk car. A 1" bore is pretty common for disk brakes. I didn't want to do hydroboost now, but since I have everything except 1 hose, I'm to go ahead and install it.
k5mog...what booster unit are you going to use? I don't know how relevant my '57 installed hydroboost will be to yours, but if I can help let me know. I had a feeling it might have been the same guy...descriptions were so identical..lol..now I know why. Dave was really helpful and informative when I got my front spindles/discs from his Drop n Stop.
My booster, master cylinder, and distribution block came out of a 96 GT Mustang. Started today to deal with the install. The booster pushrod is about .25" short with the oem mounting bracket and right now my thought is to just shim the bumper and go with it. I really don't think it's necessary to go to the trouble to make an adjustable pushrod. Right now I've got $39.00 in the parts so far, the hydroboost was $9.50 at express pull, can you beat that. Getting hoses made will probably cost more then I've been out so far.
LOL...(or COL)....I should'a shopped more..I paid 150 for the used '02 boost unit with the prop. valve (ended up not using...bought a wilwood), and the master. They were hard to find around here 4 years ago when I bought mine.....they're only on the gt and Cobra Mustangs, and not that many of them in wrecking yards.You may run into metrics on the '96...not sure....my '02 was metrics all the way, even the brake line fittings. I****ume you already have power steering, so you'll need to figure plumbing for two return lines to the reservoir. I spent crazy money (crazy for me at least) on ss aerquip braided lines (needed 5 lines), cooler, custom made ss ps reservoir w/ 2 return line fittings, and banjo mm to an6 adapters, Wilwood proportioning valve, NiCopp brake lines. I probably have somewhere around 1K invested in that corner of the car.....that should make you feel pretty good about your investment...at least so far. The '01 and newer Mustang hydroboost masters have a larger bore size, btw. Hoses and plumbing in general, I think are the most underestimated part of figuring what a project is going to cost.
Installed the hydroboost and starting mockup of brake and hydraulic lines. This is so compact compared to vacuum power brakes. Right now I'm thinking I can do it all for under a $100.00,so far I've spent $39.00
Well My $100.00 budget went out the window. I decided to use a new master cylinder instead of the junk yard cylinder I bought. That cost me $58.00 and it turned out I needed to redo almost all of the hydraulic hoses. Got that done $89.00 dollars later. Bleed all the brakes, purged the air out of the hydraulics and got in the car to try the brakes. Well it didn't take long to realize the hydroboost was not doing it's job. So ordered a rebuilt boost and that will be another $125.00, so my budget is blown out the window. Still happy with what I'm doing since a vacuum boost would have not been that much cheaper. Still I'm happier when junkyard parts/prices work for me
For some reason my learning curve was a little high for this project. It turned out the junkyard hydroboost was not my problem, it turned out to be good. I had a great deal of aggravation getting the boost to work. I spent a great deal of time worrying with the power steering setup, thinking I was not getting the fluid pressure I needed. When the whole problem was nothing but air in the brake lines. I didn't bleed the master cylinder before I installed it and just pumped brake fluid form the calipers. I'll have to say it's as good as any body could ask for now. Which was what I was looking for myVicky. I'll have to say I'm pretty satisfied even if I did spend 125.00 that I didn't need too.
The Jalopy Journal
