Technical Frame boxing necessary?

Dave, you're right, I'm not replacing it, but to your point, Texas is a giant pain in the *** to try and register a car without a previously existing ***le. Most guys end up hiring lawyers here that specialize in this ********. You have to take the car to the DPS (equivalent of the DMV in most places) which for us is about 100 miles away, and arrange to have a senior Trooper personally inspect the car, to which you are totally at his/her mercy to determine its legitimacy, and that's where the paperwork pile just begins... So yes, in Texas, having a ***led frame is a big plus to start with.

To the previous question, yes, the VIN is perfectly clear on the frame. It has a layer of surface rust all over of course, but the rest of the structure is solid and well worth resurrecting in my opinion. My only debate was whether or not to "modernize" it by boxing it.

 

You need to get past a a verifier here in California, too. It also has to look like a car.

Luckily, there are private citizens to whom the state has delegated the authority to do this. I know one pretty well.

 

Sadly "dirty old man" your request has fallen on deaf ears.

 

See if you can find another frame, and use sections from it, or carefully dissect the existing damaged sections and duplicate them.

It will be a pain in the ***, but you can do it. If you can find box tubing, rectangular or square, with the same corner bend radius, or close, you can cut it up into donor sections, and weld those together.

What @anothercarguy showed you is exactly what you will need to do.

 

So? Bandwidth is practically free.

 

I've only ever done one Ford of the era that used that style frame, and had the same rust issues in the same place. I cleaned out as much as I could, and plated in inside and out. Would acquiring a rust-free frame and transplanting the VIN section of frame from the old to the new be a valid effort? Maybe that's what @gimpyshotrods was alluding to when he said "See if you can find another frame, and use sections from it".

He likely cannot tell you exactly what he was thinking, as it may invalidate his sworn automotive hippocratic oath as a California licensed and bonded Vehicle Verifier, or result in legal issues were he to actually suggest a frame VIN swap.

 

I would never suggest swapping identifying marks from one frame to another.

Just remember, a properly penetrated weld, sanded perfectly smooth, always looks really keen.

 

Ford frames are designed to twist some, boxing is not needed.

 

John, Are saying ALL Ford frames? Or just the frame in question?

 

Do note that Ford suspension p***es forces to the frame right down the center. Chevy suspensions attached as far out to the sides as feasible and so required more stiffening. to remain straightish.

 

Here is a place where you can get frame sections to patch your frame:

Joe's Antique Auto, Uxbridge:

https://www.joesantiqueauto.com

They sell them at eBay as well:

https://www.ebay.com/usr/joesantiqueauto?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

Just be sure not to accidentally cut out your VIN.

Regards,
Chris

 

I ***led a 35 Ford from Oregon and a 36 Ford with a New Jersey ***le and the only thing I needed was a ***le and a bill of sale, no inspection needed in Washington within the last two years. I was told I would have needed a inspection if there was no ***le and just a bill of sale.

 

Yes this is true if you have a ***le. However if the ***le number does not match the frame number and if you are stopped and they want to verify the vin. you will have a big problem.