I'd like to revisit the topic of Frame tables and jigs. Not so much opinions on whether or not you need one, but how to build a nice, simple frame table for a 32 frame. I'd like suggestions on the type and thickness of metal, height, adjustments etc. that you've found useful and maybe cost effective while we're at it. This is not just academic, my shop floor gets poured next month and I want to build one of these in a bad way. Photos would be great, diagrams in crayon are welcome. Thanks in advance -Chris Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Well.....I'm all about cheap and it worked for me. A friend bought a custom made kingsize bedframe off of CL, got to his apartment and found out it wouldn't fit through the front door! In frustration, he called me and asked if I wanted it. Who am I to turn away free steel! He delivered it to my shop and as soon as I saw it the first thing I thought was.............frame table! Made a couple of minor mods and wound up building my roadster frame on it!
We only build a frame every couple of years of so and it didn't make sense for us to have a frame table or jig that was taking up space, so my Son built this one out of 2x 4 inch steel channel about 3/16 thick. It stands up against a wall when not in use and we've laid up a bunch of frames with it. Nothing elaborate, but it works. Don We can also flip it on it's side to do horizontal welds.
Secondhand 8x4" I-beam. Legs bolt on for upright storage if I need the space between frame builds. Total cost around $200 plus about 6 hours. Shutter-ply attaches to the side when I need a better visual of ride height.
Have been using this set up for the last 35 years. The main frame is 4 x 4 tubing. The two side braces bolt to the two ends ( easier to store when no in use) . There are four adjusting bolts to level it once it is set in place. I have two 6 inch I-beams that set on top of the ends, and those I can position where-ever I need them, depending on the layout of the frame that is going together. I purposely built it tall to be able to do most of the welding standing up. I tack weld jig once everything is where I want it, than I weld the ch***is and any supports to the jig. This makes a nice ,solid table that holds everything level and straight while the ch***is get welded. Maybe a little over-kill but it has turned out a lot of frames over the years.
I don't like to stoop to work, and a stool is confining. I'm currently working on a simple extension for my welding table --- built of 3'x5'x1" plate on 4"x4" square tubing legs braced with 3" tubing. The extension is of 2"x2" thick-wall tubing, liberally drilled to bolt brackets to hold frames, and other parts, when needed. Both tables are to be the same height. My welding table has levelers to compensate for the floor, as will the addition. Something multifunctional, makes me happy. The extension won't have a top, and can used as the base for fixtures and jigs, and to hold longer pieces that always turn up on a welding table, as it will simply be an extension. The bonus is no clutter. With no top you can't lay stuff down and walk off and leave it. A problem all tables create.
i just realized i never took any pics of mine, so i will just tell you. it's 3 x 3 x .125 wall square tubing. 10 ft long and 40 inches wide and about 3 ft tall. it has 4 cross bars welded on. it is suspended by engine stands permanently attached at each end. which have 10 inch pnuematic tires on it to roll it outside. it also has 6 inch long 5/8th bolts at all 4 corners to level it. it rotates around by a modified boat winch on one end. it allows me to build a frame on either side if i want. it handles t frames and such but i am not sure i would want to put a 1 ton truck frame on it. which is ok as i build mostly t's anyway.
no pics either, and i cant take any because my rig is over at tiki diablo's shop right now, BUT>>> i found a 10' section of 4X4X.250 out in the storage bin, cut it in half and braced it with a 20' section of 2X4X.120, so its basically a super heavy 5X5 ladder. i have used it two ways, one supported on a hoist so i can raise it and lower it at my discretion, the other on a rolling table frame made out of heavy angle iron that i scavenged from an old plating shop. the caster bases have provision for long bolts that can be used for leveling. its the perfect height for mocking up a frame and doing most of the welding. when i'm done i can lay it up against the wall to get it out of the way, and its heavy enough that i don't ever need to worry about it staying true. sure its a little short, BUT for what i've needed it for its perfect. i can just slide the frame back and forth and clamp it as needed if i need a certain section of the fame secured. for the sake of simplicity, i did buy the original CCR frame jig for turning out T Bucket frames, but my 'welding fixture' sure comes in handy if i wanna do something special, one off, or super custom.
Thank guys, some really great examples. In reading a few of the other threads I had the impression that failing to use super strait steel (read no I-beam) would lead to real problems. Sounds as though the biggest advantage is having some platform to level and weld to, rather than needing something arrow true.... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
A cluttered photo but you can see how simple it can be. We used a cycle table we built for a couple projects and borrowed a couple I beams off a pals jig for this temporary one. Works well.
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