Neede a front Model A crossmember for my roadster project-Didn't wanna spend the cash for the new on plus ship and tax[YOU KNOW].....so I made this one. It started as a peice of 2x4 channel[1/8" thick] I marked off the length[ according to yor frame inner width at C/line..... Then I marked the taper for each end so it would fit close for a nice gap to weld. I marked it off to taper towards a 6" long straight center area. it is two inches wide in middle]. Next I torch cut the waste out and spilit the sides only- then bent the center down so it was 2" lower at center[STOCK A] dimension.... I then pulled in the tapered sides and tacked them.. Next I put the frt and rear of the straight middle back on and tacked them, Also you need to slice and taper the right and left ends[about the last two inches] after this so they fit flush under top of frame rails. after it was all welded up and ground down it aint too bad.......Here are a few pics........
You may wanna cut two Wider peices to fit back on the frt and rear of this 6" straight center....that way there is a tight weld gap....
AWWWW schucks guys......Anybody can do it.....Ya jus Gotta be BROKE to wanna do this!Prob makes a lots more senses to buy a speedy Bill or sumpin crossmember-But I crave the hand whittled Atrifacts that our future generations will dig out of a frozen Lava puddle and place in their Museums.... ....Shit I forgot where I was goin with this.
Very impressive Choprods - and nicely done. The following is not a criticism, OK? I note that the commercially available front crossmembers are 3/16". Strikes me as a little funny cuz the frame and boxing plates are usually 1/8". Not to mention the commercially available rear crossmembers are 1/8" although in most cases they are a complete rectangular section. Like I said, not a criticism and I see no reason why the 1/8" crossmember you made wouldn't work well and be safe. All of which is the long way around to asking what the stock Model A front crossmember thickness is.
Ed Murder- sorry about that rude assotiation with Sporty's!... I stuk it in the vise and kinked it by hand at the both ends of the 6" straight center. then straightedged it across the top measureing till it was two inches lower at center..... C9....I think I will add another 1/8" slab thru the flat center part [under neath side]a "strap if you will"...welded in..... Nads-thats what I like...Recognition!
[ QUOTE ] I think I will add another 1/8" slab thru the flat center part [under neath side]a "strap if you will"...welded in..... [/ QUOTE ] That's an option I hadn't thought about. If I can get over to a friends shop today, I'll measure the stock Model A crossmembers on a couple of A's and see what the thickness is. Regardless, I don't see any problems with the 1/8" stuff and an added strap sure won't hurt.
I was thinking of the tortional stress on that center area C9......a little too much is better than a little less, a lot too late!
I know I'm a fussy old bastard. I like to make sure nothing comes apart. Comes from years in aircraft. The stock 32 crossmembers were a lot stronger than A's and had a 1/4" strap across the middle. Almost all of them that I have seen have cracked. I would make the strap 1/4" and add some 1/8 flanges to the bottom of the sides. Sorry for the sugestions but can't hurt!
Probably Smart Andy, thanks.......I thought about a 3/8" rod welded the entire length frt and rear at the bottom of "skirt" too.[might be cool lookin] I am prob gonna run a clamp up from bottom with bolts and not use the square U bolts like stock.
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